Automotive Glossy Clear Coat on Laminate Gun stock

Give Renaissance a try, I have found it to be the best polish/wax for wood and metal the results are unbeatable and it lasts.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/renaissance-wax-polish

I just refinished the laminate stock on my HM1000x using Minwax wipe on epoxy and did finially achieve the kind if look that you described. Laminate is in some ways more difficult to work with than walnut as the wood layers may vary per hardness making the use of a sanding block mandatory. Be prepared to do lots of wet sanding between between as many coats as it takes. When you get the look that you want, call it done and STOP. Good luck with your project! Lots of work but I wouldn't hesitate in doing another one. Uj

the (potential) issue with auto clear in a can is that you have little to no control over the spray pattern or volume as opposed to using proper spray equipment. all this means though is buy an extra can and practice first.

"Michael"

"anqgiap"I have proper spray equipment (guns and compressor), don't see this particular product offered in anything but can and it seems a lot of people vowed for it, pros and amateurs. Might give it a go and see how it turns out.

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Sweet, let us know how it turns out.
Sounds like you've got some experience. But for anyone else reading this... as with any paint or top coat don't forget to prep the stock first; wet sand with 1000 grit paper then hit it with a wax remover/degreaser. :yes:

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I’ve always used brake pad spray cleaner it degreases well and leaves no residue.

 that stuff is 2 part auto clear coat which is widely available. the can just makes it convenient. once the tab on the bottom is popped, the catalyzer is injected and you have about 48hrs to use it. very noxious stuff as in it sticks to mucous membranes, your lungs, etc. wear a full face respirator.

Might be easier, cheaper, & safer to have a body shop do it.

Brownells epoxy high gloss clear coat rattle can..

Question: if a gun was to be properly spray painted with automotive paint, regardless of finish. How durable is it? Would it shatter like glass? Or chip? Or be as tough as cars are? 
I’m not very partial to high gloss, but I like the idea of the car paint. Thanks. 

Beautiful guns, nice work.

I would not recommend automotive paint or any other type of paint. If you seal the wood, by nature wood needs to breathe. Wood expands and contracts with temperature.
I wood rather do a teak oil finish. The more coats you put on the more glossy it will become.
My reason for this suggestion is that teak oil or Tru-Oil is way better, because it can be repaired easier should anything happen to it.
Automotive paint will thicken the stock and makes parts possibly not fit good.

So I believe you made the right decision!
Great looking guns!
I love the stock on the BSA!

Guys in the FWIW department,a former customer of mine builds and refinishes high$$$$$ wooden boats. He uses almost strictly automotive finishes. He claims it stands up well to UV exposure,scuffs and scrapes.If a client damages the finish,it can usually be sanded and buffed. In extreme cases repairs and spot finishing usually works fine, just like auto body shops. As an aside,the average paint & body guy knows little or nothing about wood and vice versa.
A commercial or custom cabinet shop is probably better suited for the task. Either way,the more hand work,the more the labor charge will be.
I just remembered a finish that I used when building custom water skis,Flecto Varathane. It came in clear HIGH gloss or satin. I was told it had been developed for roller skating floors and gymnasiums. Hope this helps.