Automotive Glossy Clear Coat on Laminate Gun stock

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    anqgiap
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    Has anyone here tried putting automotive high gloss clear coat on a laminate gun stock?  I’m going after the AA FTP 900 super glossy look and I have a couple that I would like to have the glass like finish – HW100 laminate stock for one. 
    I tried Tru-Oil before on wood stock, came out great but still doesn’t have the glass finish of automotive clear coat like AA FTP 900.
    Been looking at this product on Amazon but don’t have the guts to try yet, would like to hear from someone have gone through it.  
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&th=1

    Or any other clear coat product you would recommend for laminate gun stock. 
     

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    Brian10956
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    Give Renaissance a try, I have found it to be the best polish/wax for wood and metal the results are unbeatable and it lasts.

    http://www.ebay.com/bhp/renaissance-wax-polish

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    Uglyjohn
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    I just refinished the laminate stock on my HM1000x using Minwax wipe on epoxy and did finially achieve the kind if look that you described. Laminate is in some ways more difficult to work with than walnut as the wood layers may vary per hardness making the use of a sanding block mandatory. Be prepared to do lots of wet sanding between between as many coats as it takes. When you get the look that you want, call it done and STOP. Good luck with your project!  Lots of work but I wouldn’t hesitate in doing another one.   Uj

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    anqgiap
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    Looks pretty good but I wonder if the existing finish is not glossy enough to begin with, sort of a matte finish, can this help?

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    anqgiap
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    “Uglyjohn”I just refinished the laminate stock on my HM1000x using Minwax wipe on epoxy and did finially achieve the kind if look that you described. Laminate is in some ways more difficult to work with than walnut as the wood layers may vary per hardness making the use of a sanding block mandatory. Be prepared to do lots of wet sanding between between as many coats as it takes. When you get the look that you want, call it done and STOP. Good luck with your project!  Lots of work but I wouldn’t hesitate in doing another one.   Uj

    
Yes, RAW laminate stock (mine in TH grey) is one of the stocks I would like to put a glass look on.  I sprayed Tru-oil on one of my project gun, no sanding in between, just 10 layers of tru-oil – it came out shinny but doesn’t have the glass like finish.  May be I need to apply car polish and wax to see what it looks like but afraid the tru-oil is not hard enough hence the thought of using car clear coat.  A lot of black powder guys use car clear coat for hard protection, not sure how they do it.

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    Michael
    Keymaster
    Keymaster

    Yup, most hydro-graphic artists use an automotive clear. High/semi/matte.

    I prefer to use cerakote. They make an air dry gloss finish as well. But you’ll need the proper spray equipment.

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    jcjc
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    the (potential) issue with auto clear in a can is that you have little to no control over the spray pattern or volume as opposed to using proper spray equipment. all this means though is buy an extra can and practice first.

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    anqgiap
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    I have proper spray equipment (guns and compressor), don’t see this particular product offered in anything but can and it seems a lot of people vowed for it, pros and amateurs.  Might give it a go and see how it turns out.

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    Michael
    Keymaster
    Keymaster

    “anqgiap”I have proper spray equipment (guns and compressor), don’t see this particular product offered in anything but can and it seems a lot of people vowed for it, pros and amateurs.  Might give it a go and see how it turns out.

    
Sweet, let us know how it turns out.

    Sounds like you’ve got some experience.  But for anyone else reading this… as with any paint or top coat don’t forget to prep the stock first; wet sand with 1000 grit paper then hit it with a wax remover/degreaser.  :yes:

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Michael.
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    Brian10956
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    “Michael”

    “anqgiap”I have proper spray equipment (guns and compressor), don’t see this particular product offered in anything but can and it seems a lot of people vowed for it, pros and amateurs.  Might give it a go and see how it turns out.

    
Sweet, let us know how it turns out.
    Sounds like you’ve got some experience.  But for anyone else reading this… as with any paint or top coat don’t forget to prep the stock first; wet sand with 1000 grit paper then hit it with a wax remover/degreaser.  :yes:

    
I’ve always used brake pad spray cleaner it degreases well and leaves no residue.

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    jcjc
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     that stuff is 2 part auto clear coat which is widely available. the can just makes it convenient. once the tab on the bottom is popped, the catalyzer is injected and you have about 48hrs to use it. very noxious stuff as in it sticks to mucous membranes, your lungs, etc. wear a full face respirator.

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    kayaker
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    Might be easier, cheaper, & safer to have a body shop do it.

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    anqgiap
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    That thought had crossed my mind; I probably check them out and weight the options.

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    cosmic
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    Brownells epoxy high gloss clear coat rattle can..

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    intenseaty22
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    Question: if a gun was to be properly spray painted with automotive paint, regardless of finish. How durable is it? Would it shatter like glass? Or chip? Or be as tough as cars are? 
    I’m not very partial to high gloss, but I like the idea of the car paint. Thanks. 

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    anqgiap
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    I went to a couple of body shops, they all hesitated to work on wood.  Gave me all kinds of reasons for not to work on the stock.  With the stocks already removed, I went ahead with Tru-Oil, not automotive clear coat as initial intention, just because it’s much easier to fix if I messed up and I worked with it before.  Spray 5 coats on each stock, mix 1:1 between tru-oil and mineral spirits – they came out close to what I had hope for with clear coat but with tru-oil, it’s much easier to finish again and again down the road.  The tru-oil really brought out grains, biggest impact was on the RAW since Martin’s finish was too dull to reveal the beauty.  They do look better in person than I can take the pictures but just to give an idea. 

    BSA Gold Star SE

    HW100

    RAW HM1000x

     

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    jlc
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    Beautiful guns, nice work.

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    toku58
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    I would not recommend automotive paint or any other type of paint. If you seal the wood, by nature wood needs to breathe. Wood expands and contracts with temperature.
    I wood rather do a teak oil finish. The more coats you put on the more glossy it will become.
    My reason for this suggestion is that teak oil or Tru-Oil is way better, because it can be repaired easier should anything happen to it.
    Automotive paint will thicken the stock and makes parts possibly not fit good.

    So I believe you made the right decision!
    Great looking guns!
    I love the stock on the BSA!

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    anqgiap
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    These are laminate stocks, I think they wouldn’t be breathing as much as wood. 
    Tru-Oil is a very forgiving product to work with.  I smoothed the finish with 0000 steel wool and sprayed 2 more coats on each; the grains just keep popping after each coat – couldn’t be happier with the results.  I love the lustrous wet looks of exotic laminate in glossy finish, personal preferences.  The website scales down the resolution of the pics to show their true beauties.  

    The BSA is a joy to shoot too!  Almost a single hole @ 25 yards.  It came with the air “stripper” which is loud, I put HW moderator on it, quite as a mule now.

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    racer1
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    Guys in the FWIW department,a former customer of mine builds and refinishes high$$$$$ wooden boats. He uses almost strictly automotive finishes. He claims it stands up well to UV exposure,scuffs and scrapes.If a client damages the finish,it can usually be sanded and buffed. In extreme cases repairs and spot finishing usually works fine, just like auto body shops. As an aside,the average paint & body guy knows little or nothing about wood and vice versa.
    A commercial or custom cabinet shop is probably better suited for the task. Either way,the more hand work,the more the labor charge will be.
    I just remembered a finish that I used when building custom water skis,Flecto Varathane. It came in clear HIGH gloss or satin. I was told it had been developed for roller skating floors and gymnasiums. Hope this helps.

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