Are there any R5M tuners available???

All this info scares me into buying an R5M. I do want an excellent BULLPUP in .25 that is quiet and reliable, hope you get this issue sorted out. I also wonder if the LELYA has these same issues.

My R5M is my go to gun. Not one single problem. Not entirely perfect, but show me something that is?? And so easy to service/tune. But really, if you are being scared away from it, take a look at Taipan in .25.

Love the Taipan, just hate the REAR cocking lever. I will most likely go with the R5M and hope for the best. 
 
Hopefully everyone that's posted is following this discussion and that's just what this is.

I researched this rifle for about three months before purchasing. I still believe my purchase was correct. The guns amazing, workmanship, overall appeal, things just make sense with this gun. I've just hit a rough spot that seems to keep showing up.

With that said I head into tonight's comments hopefully I'll answer everyone's questions and comments. (Thanks for the support this forum is awesome).

The gun was purchased new. I did however change out the original reg for a huma right away. I have a Leshiy as a back up in 22 cal 350mm barrel and it will hit and group anything I can see up to 70 yards. I know this guns will work.

Pellets: I've tried JSB 25gr, FX 25gr, JSB Heavy's and MKII heavy's 34 gr and poly mags.

Scope and rings. Aztec 3-18 with fx no limit rings

Shooting off a rest with bipod in front and rear sand bag.

No real shift in velocity. Fired over a chrony. The most spread I've seen is 10fps.like one in ten shots.

Now for what I've tried and that's been recommended. I've fired upwards of 6 tins of pellets through this. Kind of set my cleaning schedule to every 2 tins. As far as I can figure I'm one tin into the post cleaning. The gun never settled down.

I've not fired with the moderator off but will try that, but I'm not seeing any clipping evidence. The single loading advice seems logical. The mag seems to index slightly to the left when the probe is inserted empty. As far as slightly it probably half the distance between these words as far as movement. We will see whose actually reading this.👀

One observation I have doing this is that the pellets seem to be sized down a little by the mags.

Barrel tension, where do I find a allen wrench in 12MM?? I'm actually in the process of making my own.

Another thing that I've seen that someone mentioned is spiraling. If this has to do with barrel tension, I'm working on it.

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Here are the groups at 32 yds that caused this discussion. The first shot was the one closest to the bull. Second shot was always the low right one.

Once again, Thanks all for your support.
 
If you try to push a pellet in the barrel with a rod you will see

1. hard to insert in the chamber after the TP

2. at the end of the barrel is very tight, means too much choke

If you try to push a H&N grizly is even harder at the choke, thats why the power from 45 ft/lb deacrese to 38 ft/lb with grizly

If you set the speed to 800 fps or less you will see better accuracy, choke helps low speeds

Thats a "problem" not Edguns, but LW 

Also at .25 its good idea to open the outer hall of silencer 1mm, i saw "silver colour" at one side
 
The problem that I had with my r5m 22, was very precise with certain lots of jsb pellets, with other batches a disaster, to which I changed the barrel for another lw less strangled and since then it is more tolerant with the pellets.
To me the charger mechanism works perfectly for me, what's more, I don't notice a difference in the accuracy of using a charger to pull one at a time.
I do not say that it is the best weapon for that price, but it is true that it is a tank
 
The problem that I had with my r5m 22, was very precise with certain lots of jsb pellets, with other batches a disaster, to which I changed the barrel for another lw less strangled and since then it is more tolerant with the pellets.
To me the charger mechanism works perfectly for me, what's more, I don't notice a difference in the accuracy of using a charger to pull one at a time.
I do not say that it is the best weapon for that price, but it is true that it is a tank

Did you put a LW chocked or not ?

Everything else at the gun works perfect, even the reg after a few days is accurate, first shot like the next, spread 5 fps from 250-115 bar

Open a little the mags at the enter side, lube with black grease all the cocking and feed system and its smooth
 
Here are today's results.

Just a recap on basic's first. R5M shooting JSB King 25 cal. at 890fps. Reg set at 120bar. (Huma).

Swapped out scope and rings. I took the scope and rings off my Leshiy. Verified accurate and reliable. 

Barrel nut loosened and set to 12 foot/pounds with torque wrench.

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Okay, start at top left. Base group. second to left no moderator (Damn that's loud). Third reinstalled moderator. Forth hand loaded.

Line two Switched to new lot number of pellets. As I finished this line I remember I only brought kings. I should of brought some heavys and MKIIs. Almost texted the ole lady to bring me some. But then again I thought better.

Last row. original lot of kings.

My take away from this. One, I do believe there might be something wrong with my scope. It seemed a lot more consistent today. With the smaller overall group size. At one point I felt everything came together, Then it would open up and throw some weird shots.

Oh same yardage 32.

In conclusion: I believe there is still some work for me to do, but it's not the guns fault. 

I think there is a problem with the scope that was on it. I believe now it's pellet sensitive at least the barrel I have. (I might not have correct velocity as of yet).

As always thanks to all that replied and added their thoughts. I did not post this thread to discourage anyone from these fine rifle's. I was just discouraged mine didn't preform up to everyone else's.
 
While your trying to figure out the larger issue at hand, check your barrel crown / chamfering. My .30 came pretty janky from the factory, it shot ok but got worse over time. Cleaning it up last week eliminated my flyers. 

Also, I know that Brian told someone on this forum 12ft-lbs of torque, but I'm sure that mine is a lot more than 12. Probably double that at least on both my R5 and Lelya. You want to line the piece that holds the barrel tensioning nut straight, and then torque it down by hand hard enough that it it doesn't feel like it would come loose, and then maybe just an extra snug after that point. Don't turn it so hard that it over-compresses the barrel (use a short 1/4" drive or screwdriver with a 12mm socket adapter). That thing can actually be a pain in the ass if it isn't snugged down well enough when you install the baffle tube and end cap ring!

PS - this set has a decent 12mm bit, I was using a 1/2" 12mm bit with two adapters before I bought that set lol

https://amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DYGQVT2