anschutz 335 sporter (aka crosman model 6500) - need help w/ piston seal

his might be option seeing that they used leather seals

T.W. Chambers does have the leather seal listed

https://www.gunspares.co.uk/products/24245/335/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LEATHER-SEAL-ADAPTOR-28MM-DIANA-GECADO-35-50-ANSCHUTZ-333-335-FALKE-LUCZNIK-87-/163434045032

ARH shows a spring

I’m believe I’m correct in saying the 335 uses the same spring and piston seal as the Anschutz-built Hakim rifle, if that helps in the search.

The 335/6500 is a superb rifle, you will like it.

Have dealt with these people before and had good luck. Stock many parts for older airguns. Used them when I rebuilt a Webley Senior. Near Chicago.

https://www.jgairguns.biz/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_81_2019

There were two versions of the 335.The first one had a manual barrel lock that pulled straight out, like an HW 35 or Webley Omega. 

The later version had a greatly improved angled lever lock, which worked exactly like the Walther LGR - great design, just squeeze to open - very rigid lockup, very easy to use. The stock lines are quite a bit different from the early model as well, most noticeably the sloped fore end.

The "Crosman Challenger" line was interesting:

The "6100" was a Diana model 45 (old version), with an unusual straight-line stock.

The "6300" was the Anschutz model 333. This used the same powerplant and trigger as the 335, but in a smaller simpler stock, a shorter lighter barrel, and a plain spring detent latch. A very nice junior rifle that is largely forgotten today. Kinda like an R7 with an extra hundred FPS and Anschutz barrel.

The "6500" was the 335. The powerplant was considered a bit sedate for a full-sized sporter in those day, but it’s one heck of a nice-handling, nice-shooting, very accurate rifle.

In Europe, both sport and target versions of the 335 were sold. The latter had a somewhat weaker spring of course, and was a very good entry-level 10-meter gun that could give an HW 55 a run for its money.

By the way, your photos in the initial post show three different guns. The middle one is the first-version 335 with Anschutz match sights. The bottom one is the second-version 335; all Crosman 6500’s that I have seen are this model. The top pic is an Anschutz model 35, a later gun that was a bit of a mongrel designed to use up spare parts! Basically a 333 in a 335 stock, with some additional cost-cutting features.

Hi

I also have a 335 .22 cal with a bent barrel at the moment./ I was working on it without stock attached replaced spring cocked gun and trigger hit table what a nightmare/ so if anybody has a gun or barrel I'm more than interested/ my gun has a ptfe washer with oring seal and I know both types of seal can be bought in the uk.

I may be missing the point here but it is usually pretty simple to bend the barrel back. I’ve had occasion to do this when the barrel droops so much I can’t get the sights or scope to compensate. I’ve built a jig to hold the barrel as I gently bend it. Am I not understanding your problem?

Yup it has been done, been goin on for eons. I've done it once on a little diana that was shipped that way from a private seller. sho was a tough little bugger but I got.

Hi lads barrel now straight thank god but now need advice on trigger assembly / for some reason trigger just flops about back and forth when gun uncocked as under no tension/ then when gun cocked same floppy first stage until you get too second stage where trigger feels firm then fires. It's as if a spring or something is missing giving the trigger some tension / but without a gun to compare trigger too im lost if anyone can solve my dilemma I would be grateful best regards 

Paul

Paul, I posted an earlier version of these trigger adjustment notes on that other forum. It sounds like the gun may have too much sear engagement.

Here's the link to Crosman's exploded diagram and part numbers/names. You'll need to refer to this to make sense of my wordy notes below! In the notes, "in" = clockwise screw rotation, "out" = counter-clockwise.

https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/201668554/6500-EVP.pdf

There is NO adjustment for pull weight per se on this trigger. This is set by "trigger spring 52,"” in the front of "sear latch 53,”" which is fixed in place.

There are three adjusters in the trigger block: "“sear adjusting screw 45" (and its "nut 46") in the back of the trigger block; "“trigger set screw 57" in front of the trigger; and "trigger creep screw 58" behind the trigger.

Screw 45 is set at the factory and regulates how far “"sear 51" swings back after release. It does not affect the trigger pull that I can see, and there is no reason to adjust it.

Screw 57 sets sear engagement, and thus the total trigger travel. When the gun is cocked, the top of the sear is pushed back by the piston rod, pivoting its lower leg forward to be trapped against a notch in the sear latch. “"Trigger 55" is pinned to the back of the sear latch. When screw 57 is turned in, it reduces sear engagement by lowering the trigger and sear latch in relation to the sear. When the trigger is pulled, the end of 57 acts as a fulcrum, further lowering the trigger and latch until the sear is released and the gun fires.

Screw 57 is a tough customer! If too far in, the gun will not cock as the sear cannot engage the latch. It's also possible for the sear engagement to be so slight that the gun fires inadvertently. But if too far out, there is so much friction in the sear that the trigger will not return to its starting point, when pulled back partly and then released. A “sticky” trigger is annoying and potentially dangerous.

Screw 58 sets the second stage point, by acting as a secondary fulcrum. When the trigger is pulled, the end of 58 contacts a fixed plate, reducing the trigger’'s mechanical advantage and thus increasing pull weight. If 58 is turned too far in, there is no “first stage”; just a short–, heavy pull. If 58 is too far out, there is no “second
stage”–; just a long, light pull. Either extreme produces an unpredictable release point.

So the proper sequence for adjustment is:
1. Turn 58 OUT, until there is no second stage.
2. Turn 57 IN or OUT, until the length of pull suits you (remember, longer pull = more sear
engagement and greater safety margin), and checking to see that the blade returns if
released before firing.
3. Turn 58 back IN, until the second stage is felt just before the trigger releases.

Other notes: 

1. BE CAREFUL WHEN ADJUSTING THIS GUN! It does not tolerate mistakes.
2. If you move screw 57, you will always have to re-adjust 58 to re-set the stage lengths.
3. On my gun the little plastic gizmos ("“trigger set screw lock nut 56") which keep the adjuster screws from slipping, deteriorated over time. They might be replaced with small O-rings or something similar.
4. You can take the gun’'s trigger module out of the action, and set the sear by pushing its lower leg forward until caught by the sear latch. This is useful for studying the mechanism, or for rough adjustments. BUT, there is a lot of "slack" in the system when doing this; the trigger will act differently when under full spring tension. To be safe, make final adjustments while actually cocking and firing the rifle. 
5. The trigger module is held in the receiver tube by two cross pins. When the action is cocked, there is no tension on these. Normally not a problem as they are restrained by the stock, BUT if you cock the action while out of the wood, the pins can actually FALL OUT! At this point everything is held together by the SEAR ONLY; pulling the trigger would launch the trigger block and spring out the back at high speed!
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Thank you for your terrific insight to this gun / what I found was out the stock trigger was fine but when screwed into the stock it was horrible with no first stage at all/ I looked inside of stock to find trigger assembly had bedded itself into the wood making it slack the stock is a custom thumb hole not original/ I've packed base of stock too trigger assembly for clearance and now all good /I've shot some groups today at 20mtrs more or less pellet on pellet with falcon accuracy plus/ over the chrono its giving just under 7ft lb not quite sure if it's under powered or if it's a 10 mtr target gun / I dont want to change spring incase it breaks lugs of cylinder if the spring too stiff piston seal is brand new and so is breech seal/ any help regarding power level would be helpful/ I really just like to thank everyone for all the help and knowledge as your help is keeping a nice vintage gun from the scrap bin best regards paul

Darrel on Brads sight has one up on page 2. American airguns for sale.

Does anyone know the correct o'ring size for the breach seal?

Try sending a message to member @Tominco.
He did a resto on one a while back and he may remember the sealing ring size.

Failing that, a message to member @MDriskill may yield an answer. He is a sharp cookie and possesses quite a bit of detailed knowledge about older German spring guns.

Do you have the old seal?
There is also a spacer ring present behind the breech sealing O ring on the factory schematic, its importance may or may not be critical.

For what it may be worth, D&L Airgun says the replacement is 8 X 2.5

In the mid-1980s I was the editor of a UK magazine, Sporting Air Rifle, which allowed me to play with and modify airguns to my heart's content, and get paid for the articles I wrote about it. At the time, Webley had launched their Vulcan with a PTFE piston seal, and I made and retro fitted PTFE seals to a number of rifles, among them, the Anschutz 335, and boosted the muzzle energy, with no other modification, by around 4 ft. lb., from 7 ft.lb. to over 11.

Nearly 40 years later, I cannot remember the dimensions, other than the seals were very shallow, as deep seals were inclined to go tight in the cylinder under continuous preload force.

Thanks for the oring info! I replaced the leather seal on mine with a 28mm synthetic conversion kit from customairseals.

There is also an oring version.

5 shots 25m .22 superdomes.