Altaros booster question

Search seems to be broken currently, so hopefully someone can enlighten me a bit here. Just received mine and have a new shop compressor and don't want to screw anything up yet as I have never used a booster. I am going to mainly fill an Omega 88 cf tank and wanting to see what process people use on that style (or any of the SCBA style tanks and valves really). With the in put and output valves being the same on those tanks, do you need to build pressure in the booster before opening the tank valve like you would need to do on a Yong Heng or can you start the booster up and open the valve on the tank before the booster is going? Would it be best to use a one way fill adapter on the tank? 
 
@bunkeru2k Let me see what I can find. If we can't find much, try contacting some of the members who posted in this thread https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/altaros-air-booster-is-up-and-running/

Have you looked at any of the instructional information on the Altaros site? http://altaros-compressor.com/main-page/instruction/

Also found this comprehensive looking thread on the Altaros booster pump posted on GTA https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=123417.0

To search for information on AGN using Google in the search box type (without the quotation marks) "setup altaros booster with SCBA tank site:airgunnation.com" This method of searching is often more efficient than using Elasticsearch.


 
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The Altaros Booster is completly indifferent in regards to start pressure.

So by all means open the bottle from git go and the booster will get up to pressure fast and work from there.

When you set the output max, it will boost and when reached it will turn off automaticly.



The learning curve is adjusting air comsumption so the compressor works 20-30% on and the rest off.

Lets it cool down and not burn to a crisp ;-)


 
Tighten the brass knurled nut on top and it will tighten up fine.

OBS it's not for moving the needle, that you have to do directly with your fingers.

The tiny rare earth magnet at the back of the needle aids in the electronics detecting when max set is reached. It is only held on by its own magnetism and if lost things might not work as intended!
 
Here's what mine looks like:

DSCN0040 s.1648137639.jpg


DSCN0041 s.1648137649.jpg


DSCN0042 s.1648137656.jpg

 
Disconnect the airhose and keep the bottle (open) on the output.

This is the only way to determine where air is escaping, if that is indeed the case.

Is the coloumn with the pressure gauge lose (is that what you ment when you said the gauge was lose)?

If you disconnect the small white hose at the HP cylinder does the booster build pressure?

The LP cylinder should give a "fart" at every stroke

If so then it's most likely the one way valve behind the quick connect for the white hose at the HP inlet.

Have you tried to run the booster without a bottle on the output?

It should give a sizeable "fart" at every stroke.



Good feedback from you makes it easier to help.


 
The Altaros Booster is completly indifferent in regards to start pressure.

So by all means open the bottle from git go and the booster will get up to pressure fast and work from there.

When you set the output max, it will boost and when reached it will turn off automaticly.



The learning curve is adjusting air comsumption so the compressor works 20-30% on and the rest off.

Lets it cool down and not burn to a crisp ;-)


When you are talking about adjusting the compressor to work 20-30% on and the rest off are you talking about the 'shop compressor" that is feeding the Altaros?
 
He is talking about the shop compressor there. Having that run less and cooler helps to keep water from building up some as well. I think I am adding more moisture traps for my setup shortly.



On a better note, with the help from Chickenthief and Altaros I am up and running! The hose from the booster to my tank was not torqued properly and when I tightened that down everything worked right.....except the shut off selector switch that is still loose. I have a temp solution in place with a button on there to stop it from moving past 300 bar and will check it for the spring and such after testing this tank fill.
 
Took this video with air connected to low and high side, booster not powered on. When I open tank you can hear the leaking air and shows where it is.



https://youtu.be/eRwf24gZGZw



Then your problem is the output valve!

DSCN0482.1648663099.jpg




Losen the 4 screws at the bottom holding the booster to the shell and simply unscrew the "tower" holding the output unit. Then counterclockwise unscrew the pressure gauge assembly. Thew whole thingamajig

Leftie = loosie, Rightie = tightie.

BE AWARE!!! There are small parts inside and under pressure so they might fling into otbit and vanish at knee height to be never seen again!



A select few users has had problems with the red gasket not sealing 100% but that's after at least 100+ work hours or more.

So it's maybe just a seal a little ascew that needs resettling, during a dissassembly!


 
Got the pressure cut off fixed as well now. The nut on the stem that the brass knob goes on was loose. Tightened that and now that cutoff arm is snug and not moving unless I want it to. All good and filled the 88CF tank from 3000 to 4500 in about 5 hours with a slower setup on the timing....about 55-45%.



@bunkeru2k 5 hours? Did you fill it this slowly intentionally?
 
The Altaros Booster is completly indifferent in regards to start pressure.

So by all means open the bottle from git go and the booster will get up to pressure fast and work from there.

When you set the output max, it will boost and when reached it will turn off automaticly.



The learning curve is adjusting air comsumption so the compressor works 20-30% on and the rest off.

Lets it cool down and not burn to a crisp ;-)


When you are talking about adjusting the compressor to work 20-30% on and the rest off are you talking about the 'shop compressor" that is feeding the Altaros?

Yes sir!

The booster could run all week withput getting hot.