Altaros Air Booster Updates

I like my Ataros a lot! 
I purchased a Makita MAC5200 air compressor with a 6.5CFM@90psi output to power it. Initially, I had trouble because I missed the part in the instructions about adjusting the airflow. So, the poor Makita was running full-out 100% of the time. By adjusting the air flow, I was able to find my 60/40 cycle really quickly. I've got a 2:20/1:20 minute cycle. 
I'd recommend the Altaros to anyone with a decent home shop compressor. The higher the CFM@90 the better and I've read that below 5CFM@90 is just too low. If you have a 2 cycle shop compressor with 10+ CFM@90 and a large tank, I think you'll be quite happy. 
Conveniently, most of the big names at Lowes/Home Depot will have an output right around 5CFM@90. But, keep in mind that if you run around 5, it will take longer for the Altaros to get you to pressure. 
Happy Shooting!
Tom

Hey Tom, glad to hear you are happy with the Altaros! I have the same compressor, It has been trouble free for over 10 yrs! I just changed the oil in it for the first time last year lol and went with Dewalt synthetic:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D55001-Synthetic-Compressor-Quart/dp/B0008GLW9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486079997&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+synthetic+air+compressor+oil

I think I have everything I need now minus the Altaros, and a high side filter. I plan on purchasing the Altaros when Winter is over and I can shoot outside.

Here is my current setup reply # 247:

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=115277.240

Thanks for the info, helps me out when I get my Altaros!

This is my setup, I've filled my tank around 8 or 9 times and have yet to have any moisture reach the Altaros.

Nice setup SJ! Is that the DMan filter?

"Str8tshooter"Nice setup SJ! Is that the DMan filter?

Click to expand...

Thanks, yes it is.

Scubajeeper, I really like your home built, multi-column condensate separator. That should do a fair amount of water de-bulking for you. Inter-stage dryer then a high pressure dryer shows you are serious about getting dry clean air. So, many fall far short of your level. I think the only thing that could be added would be a condensate trap between the DMan and Altaros. That would prolong the filter cartridge life, but a 6000 PSI+ capable chamber isn't a home brew project.

I think you are achieving dry air, but even with my Bauer Jr's grade E rated separator and filter stack, I wanted some way of actually verifying low moisture at the output pressure. It would also warn me if my filter cartridge is spent or there is channeling in the media. Until recently, I thought it would take a multi-thousand piece of equipment to measure the moisture at 4500 PSI. The other alternative was submitting an air sample like dive centers for $200-$300 / assay. Neither was practical.

We air gunners have been left arguing without objective data. Then I learned about this from the SCUBA forum.
https://www.augustindustries.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=25&cat=Visual+Indicators

This visual moisture indicator is rated to 6000 PSI. We can affordably & objectively measure humidity at actual output air.. The whole setup including housing, indicator disc and fittings should be under $100. I'm putting one on my fill whip that has valves to seal off the indicator between uses.

I think this indicator is especially useful for owners of compressors that lack a high pressure molecular sieve filter between their compressor final stage and their equipment. Users of Shoeboxes, Omegas, Carettes, Altaros, even hand pumpers no longer need rely on mere belief. You have taken great steps and are probably fine, but for those with less complete drying systems (and even those who want to monitor their complete system) this is a nice tool.

Verification is especially important if ones desiccant media and indicator strips are not on the output of your high pressure stage. Desiccant in the intake or inter-compressor position will become insufficiently effective before they reach 50% saturation (when the indicator strips change color). Some blithely use just a pre-drying filter and call it a day because they don't see water leaking out of their tanks and guns. I'm glad to see you using a high pressure filter after the compressor.

I went with a 20/40/60 disc, but there is also a disc that indicates down to 10%.
The discs can even be regenerated by drying with a blow dryer. The divers replace them yearly.

Thanks for the input, I've yet to have the beads in the Altaros turn color, nor do I see any vapor in the bowl of the trap in the unit itself. I feel fairly confident that it's working pretty well, but an indicator like you mention wouldn't be a bad idea. I've bought from August Industries before, they are great to deal with, the owner is a really nice guy and will go out of his way to help.

Joe B. Sells the Alpha filter, it's $400 though. I went with Dman's because it's $250 and uses the same cartridge. The main difference between the two is the Alpha has a pressure maintaining valve. Molecular sieve filters need to be under pressure to work properly and the PMV helps with that. I never fill from zero so I just pressure the filter with my tank, or I use the Altaros to pressure it up.

Air guns of Arizona sells the Diablo for around $180. It doesn't use a cartridge so the material contacts the wall of the vessel which is not ideal. The absolute cheapest route is a Chinese one on Aliexpress for $60. Personally, I'm not brave enough to go that route.


https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32602913439.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32602913439&productSubject=This-is-a-gift-free-of-mechanical-parts-the-link-is-used-for-customers-pay-the&spm=2114.13010608.0.0.0pHKMp

Jim Shelden sells a filter running about $500.00 but you will know it works ( it is what I would purchase and have on my compressor). The cartridge is changed once a year and runs about $40.00. A less expensive option is Joe B's separator. Although the Diablo has been promoted by the industry, my friend who works with pneumatics has some concerns with long-term stability. I have read of only 1diablo bursting and time will tell if he is right.
Any time you compress air you condense moisture out of it even in our dry air of New Mexico. I would highly recommend a moisture separator to protect your rifles and tank. Talking with AJshoots when he was helping guys with their Marauder told me every guy that had a Shoebox without a separator had water damage to their air cylinder.
These Altaros look very cool!
Best of Luck!

Doc

I have been running the diablo on the high pressure side been working great also opened it up to check for any corrosion on the walls nothing yet... Ive run it about 4 fills.

They pressure test them to 7000 psi.

Just from the brochure lol. I can say the beads havent changed color so seems my dessicant system before the Altaros is doing good.

I've been looking for a high pressure filter as well, and it's frustrating that there are no performance numbers on any of these. Wouldn't it be great if there was a test to measure the relative humidity after each filter with the same input air source. These guys make an affordable indicator that might help, and I'm considering trying one. BTW, thanks to whoever posted this link in another thread! 

https://www.augustindustries.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=25&cat=Visual+Indicators

Some claim the Diablo won't work well due to it's loose bead construction, but I don't see how that's much different from the beads that are in the cartridge filter types. You can pack them as tightly as you want if that's the only concern. The cartridges have some carbon filtration I believe, but it's not something we need for dry air. The other claim against the Diablo is corrosion, but it's anodized, and very easy to inspect. I did read the report of one air hose bursting on a Diablo, but that's the only problem I've heard of.

I'm seriously thinking of just going with the Diablo and figuring it's a lot better than nothing, which is what I used years ago when I was into PCP for the first time. 

Cheers,
Rusty

I think its good enough. For me on a budget looking at some of these prices is crazy.

Like you said i wish someone would test these out my opinion think in the end the differences wouldnt correspond to the price difference but im not a scientist i just own the diablo and seems to be working great and recommend it to my friends.

On a side note the diablo has a spring inside with a piece of felt to keep the dessicant packed pretty good.

Works good for me but I also use 3 stages of dessicant filters with a bunch of water seperators before the Altaros.

If you decide to go with a drying filter that has direct contact between the aluminum housing and molecular sieve media, be aware of the reason for concern and follow a plan for mitigating risk.

Atmospheric CO2 gets concentrated in the molecular sieve and is converted to its acidic forms in the presence of water (which is also getting absorbed in the media) The resultant acid can etch aluminum, more aggressively when under high pressure. Anodized coatings dissolve when exposed to highly acidic or alkaline conditions.

The filter housing walls are probably thick enough to tolerate some chemical erosion before catastrophic failure. The place to be the most concerned about are the threads. There, a small amount of acid and water can begin crevice corrosion and weaken the threads. We rely on multiple, well formed threads to withstand the high pressure. If the threads lose their sharpness, the mechanical strength weakens. The chemical erosion will not be overnight. It takes time. How long before failure is anyones guess. The price of failure, if someone is near the event, is severe.

At the minimum, frequent inspection of internal and external threads under bright light & magnification should be done. Look for any changes in thread color, sharpness, shape, and pitting. Inspect the vessel walls for pitting. If you see those happening, replace the filter housing. Going with a direct contact design removes a safety barrier. At the very least, one should make up for the difference with diligent inspection for any signs of corrosion.

Good advice!

"guykuo"At the minimum, frequent inspection of internal and external threads under bright light & magnification should be done. Look for any changes in thread color, sharpness, shape, and pitting. Inspect the vessel walls for pitting. If you see those happening, replace the filter housing. Going with a direct contact design removes a safety barrier. At the very least, one should make up for the difference with diligent inspection for any signs of corrosion.

Click to expand...

No argument here. This is probably good advice for any high pressure items, but especially where there's an added chance of corrosion.

(later edit) I ended up cancelling the Diablo order when I found that there was still a dman filter left. It was the last of this batch, and for $50 more than the Diablo it looks like a better option. 

Cheers,
Rusty

If you hook it up to that, make sure you post the fill times here, I'm sure one of those would run an Altaros wide open. I'd love to see the fill times with one at a constant 150 psi.