Airgun Tuning VS Archery Tuning

Yes in a way. 
Guys aren’t usually paper tuning pellets or slugs; but I’m testing different weight & balance points of .22 slugs through large $1.00 art sheets at various long distances to see when nose is dropping or still up/flat.

Has to do with 4mm-4.5mm delrin spheres in slugs at different spacing. If up front in HP area it acts as a piston. One 60fpe slug was totally stopped by an apple at 75 yards dumping all energy in an explosive hit. That would NOT have happened without Corbins Delrin balls. 
Hey, no bottle throwing here. I’m into Archery as much as Airguns. I wish we had a “Flea Market area because there’s so much we all could benefit from in trade/sale. Do you know how hard it is to test lefty bows? Impossible. Next and only 2nd compound ever ( I collect recurved and longbows) will be a APA. No bow press needed for anything. Genius Canadian compound bow Company.

With the new air arrow guns, why not? I don’t know of any States that allow these “new” arrow guns for hunting. 

You post title got my attention! I shoot homemade wood bows instinctively and agree that there is a lot in common between bows and airguns.

As a kid, I was into bows way before airguns. Being retired and in my second childhood, airguns and making/shooting bows (and slingshots) are still a big part of what I enjoy.

With most of my shooting sessions I start close (5-10 yards) and extend my range 5 yards at a time - this helps me "see" the trajectory and the compensations needed for each range. Seen too many times how easy it is to miss a rabbit at very close range LOL!

Whenever somebody asks for help in shooting I always spend a bit of time showing them a bow. The importance of stance, release and follow through are very easy to see - as is the flight of the arrow - I find that an hour shooting a (light) bow goes a long way towards better shooting with a rifle.

Cheers,

Hank

@JamesD. The new APA is going to be my next compound bow as well. I like the fact that you can take them on a wilderness hunt and change a string out if need be without a bow press. They do have a"test drive" program where you order and get a new bow shipped to you, and if you don't like it they take it back and refund the money.

@Willie14228 Yes, this same "walk back tuning" principal can be used with airguns. It is especially useful for determining if you have a cant issue with your scope because the point of impact will shift left or right the further back you go, just like with a bow.

I'm not sure how closely I can tie bow tuning to airgun tuning but there is another aspect, for me that they share. I still buy flagship bows and airguns but I really like to build them how I want. I currently have one flagship bow and seven that I built "frankenbows". Two of my buddies will only hunt with bows I build for them. Same goes for airguns. My Taipan and Edgun are stock or lightly modified. All my other guns are nothing even close to how they came. The mindset of tuning guns and bows is the same but the mechanics are quite different.

A commen way to tune a bow is to shoot through paper adjusting the rest and cam timing,untill you get a perfect bullet hole.

Airgun hobbist is right. Walking back with gun or bow will tell you if your scope or sights are canted because your poi will move farther to one side or the other as the distance increases. Its a way to check sights not so much a tuneing thing. No bottel throwing just trying to help.

While this tip isn't actually tuning I have been using it for years. When hunting with my compound and I don't have time to use a rangefinder I hold the thirty yard pin on the very bottom of the deer for elevation. This will give me a kill shot from 10 yards out to a little over 25 yards which if you are honest most bow kills fall in that range. When hunting with my crossbow I put the 40 yard dot on the very bottom edge of the deer for elevation and that will produce a lethal shot from 10 yards to a little over 35 yards. Now this is my bow and crossbow but you can check yours by simply standing known distances from the target and placing your 30 yrd. pin at the bottom of the target and see where the correct pin is. On my compound when I do this at 20 yards my 20 yard pin will be an inch or two high but still in the kill zone. In 40 plus years of bowhunting I have never missed because of this method but have missed because I used the wrong pin. You can also use this method for ranging. If you put the 30 on the bottom of the deer and the 20 is under halfway he is closer than 20 and if over half way up the deer's back he is over 20 yds. With my crossbow I can range by putting the 40 yd pin at the bottom and I know that the 30 will be 5 inches up the body at 30 yards or a little under half on a normal Pa. deer. 6 inches up and he is 40 yards and 7 inches up or above half way he is 50. In the event he appears to be 40 or more I forgo the shot and pull out the rangefinder. These numbers work for my set-ups but as mentioned if you have a rangefinder you can check pretty easily by placing your master pin (30 on compound and 40 on crossbow) and see how close your various pins are to a killing shot at the various ranges.Two years ago a beautiful buck worked his way through the brush and gave me a shot which I was sure was 20. When he got to a small opening I made a noise with my mouth to stop him and put the 20 yard pin 4 inches up the body to give me a low hit and fast blood trail. I shot and he took off. I got my rangefinder out to look and saw my arrow sticking in the ground. The arrow was at a hard angle down so I thought it may have hit brush. I found it barely caught the deer and passed between the skin and chest and deflected into the dirt.There was hair on the broad head but none on the arrow or fletch I got my rangefinder and stood where the deer was and ranged my tree and found the distance was 29 yards. I have no idea why I took the shot with the 20 pin but had I taken the advice I am giving today I would have made a quick clean kill because the arrow would have been traveling almost 6 inches higher.

key for accuracy is FORM...in ANY shooting discipline.

Yes. I shoot competitively (strictly amateur 900 matches) and the correlation as to weight of the pellet that your rifle likes as well as pellet shape and hardness. Just like the arrows are stiff to the draw weight. But like Don says form and follow through.

Airguns: like a specific pellet at a specific power setting. 

Archery: bows like a specific arrow spine at a specific draw weight.

Airguns: can make adjustments to get a pellet/slug to fly at a specific FPS via regulator or hammer spring adjustments.

Archery: bow draw weight can be adjusted (via limb bolts) to change the arrow FPS. 

Airguns: changing pellet weight changes velocity and noise signature.

Archery: adding arrow weight makes the bow more efficient..IE more energy is transferred to the arrow leaving less energy to cause vibration (noise) in the bow.

Airgun: scope must be mounted so reticle vertically aligns with the axis of the bore.

Archery: The frame that holds the sight/scope/pins must be aligned so the sight/scope/pins are over the arrow center line. 

Airguns: you can use the scope reticle mil/moa hash marks for different distances.. dial the scope vertical turret to a specific distance..or attach a yardage tape to the turret.

Archery; you can use a multi-pin sight each set at a different range.. dial a target sight to a specific distance..or attach a sight tape the frame of a moveable pin sight.



Lots of similarities...



And yep..Frankenbows rock. ;-)