AF Condor barrel bushings and MORE

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WHITEFANG

WHITEFANG

Member
Mar 31, 2017
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Ar
Still playing with the Condor now in .25. Stiffening the frame by adding the lower trigger Wokguard and the tactical scope rail. 

I am yet to try the TT hammer spring but will test it soon. 

I was wondering about the barrel bushings? I see some have added a 3rd bushing? I do have extra bushing. 

I was told that the bushings need not to be super tight on the barrel for install and the better install would would be loose?

Also was wondering if anyone has used the barrel bushings with the o rings. I have read that some have made bushings that use the o ring mod. 

The picture I have attached is bushings offered. Wider, o rings inter and outer and not aluminum. Any one tried these? Being China made just not sure just how they would work. I can easily make similar bushings myself. But for the price I've got these coming? Might be a waste of money but would not be the first time in this hobby. 

I am happy with the gun but the change from .20 to . 25 made for a total different gun in my case. Not had the chance to really stretch the gun out with the . 25 barrel. 

.20 was a tac driver at 50+ yards. I did have to change out my fabbed hand guard with the . 25 change due to the hang guard was crowding the frame. Factory handguard made the gun shoot much better. Since then I bedded my guard and with it not touching the frame the gun is still shooting fine. The bedded guard now runs the full length touching the lower rail. This should have aided stiffening. But could crowd the rail frame but seems to be working at short distance. 

Any thoughts? I'm not posting much these days and really just on my forum. 

I come over here to get tips and to compare my findings because there are much pcp folks over here. 

As many that know me, I'm not new to the airgun hobby. I'm still rebuilding both spring and pcp guns. 

Thanks

1573055372_18921499915dc2eb8c058e28.18270350_51P9FsD-AHL._SX425_.jpg

 
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White Fang,



Yes it has been a few years, I was Unrepentant sinner on the Yellow. Good to hear from you, hope the years have been good for you

Those are nice looking bushings all right.

My AF guns did shoot better with the Maddogstocks stock, I had the half stock version, but I always preferred the Wok guard because it handled so much better.



Roachcreek
 
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Still playing with the Condor now in .25. Stiffening the frame by adding the lower trigger Wokguard and the tactical scope rail. 

I am yet to try the TT hammer spring but will test it soon. 

I was wondering about the barrel bushings? I see some have added a 3rd bushing? I do have extra bushing. 

I was told that the bushings need not to be super tight on the barrel for install and the better install would would be loose?

Also was wondering if anyone has used the barrel bushings with the o rings. I have read that some have made bushings that use the o ring mod. 

The picture I have attached is bushings offered. Wider, o rings inter and outer and not aluminum. Any one tried these? Being China made just not sure just how they would work. I can easily make similar bushings myself. But for the price I've got these coming? Might be a waste of money but would not be the first time in this hobby. 

I am happy with the gun but the change from .20 to . 25 made for a total different gun in my case. Not had the chance to really stretch the gun out with the . 25 barrel. 

.20 was a tac driver at 50+ yards. I did have to change out my fabbed hand guard with the . 25 change due to the hang guard was crowding the frame. Factory handguard made the gun shoot much better. Since then I bedded my guard and with it not touching the frame the gun is still shooting fine. The bedded guard now runs the full length touching the lower rail. This should have aided stiffening. But could crowd the rail frame but seems to be working at short distance. 

Any thoughts? I'm not posting much these days and really just on my forum. 

I come over here to get tips and to compare my findings because there are much pcp folks over here. 

As many that know me, I'm not new to the airgun hobby. I'm still rebuilding both spring and pcp guns. 

Thanks

1573055372_18921499915dc2eb8c058e28.18270350_51P9FsD-AHL._SX425_.jpg
Click to expand...

Do you have a link for those bushings. Web search brings up nothing.
 
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MY pleasure. And thanks to HuntersGlen for the messages. 

Thinking long and hard on the MD Stock? Just not sure on the design and the cost of these stocks. The lower butt is questionable for me. The more one sinks into these guns the less you will get in return in selling. That's a norm in this hobby. 

I'm still a believer that the changing to the more power and the .25 puts the Condor in a different league on shooting. At least that is my opinion. I am sure that the change did make for a more sensitive holding gun. Nothing wrong with the gun and the accuracy is there if one does his part. Biggest thing I see is turning the power down for now. WITH POWER COMES many factors in shooting anything, 

But I can see the aid in the MD stock overall on the frame stiffening and free floating bottle. By design with the forward hammer and the rearward valve there is a double bounce in recoil. I have been impressed with the few AF guns I have had and yes the AF design is not for everyone. 

But going back to the magnum spring guns the D350 was not for everyone as well but I had at least 5 of them in all calibers and mastered all in a full power state. I guess I am in a learning curve in my change of calibers. 

The CONDOR has the accuracy as it has proven but I am not consistent in my shooting this go around. Not a norm for me. Thanks for what info all have given me. Back to the build bench and on to the shooting bench. Balls to walls in power for now is over. Time to get reasonable. BUT THESE GUNS DO MAKE THE POWER.💀


 
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Bushings arrived. They look good from a machine wise. But realized they are not made to replace the factory or at least the one near the power wheel. 

The extra thickness is going to push the power wheel back. Should have thought about that?

So looks like they will be used between the 2 factory and farther toward the end of the frame if used at all.

Oring inter and outer as the 1 that comes with the sound loc kit. 

Looking at another stiffening method on the pistol grip to the butt and adding another tactical dovetail rail to the top frame.

My bedded forearm is touching the lower rail the full length of my new forearm. 

Cold weather here so no playing in the shop. I have started a grip to butt stiffener but I have another ideal to material. With Choate machine local I may go by there and look at his blem stocks and see about FINDING 1 I could bed and convert to the AF. 💀
 
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Still on the AIRFORCE adventure. I found this site that is very interesting to me and I am sharing it with you. Many may have seen this and I'm not saying I will purchase and of these items but a very interesting site for AF dress mods. It my give some of you some ideals if you are able to think outside the box.

I know weight is a factor in strengthening up the frame and many need not the weight, But I find all this interesting seeing some of the mods that are out there. This is a project of mine and many are satisfied with the AF as they come out of the box. There is nothing wrong with one not wanting to invest in the AF mods. Addons hardly ever give you any return for the money but some of use play hard.

Check this out.💀

http://www.blackworks.ca/index.html
 
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Whitefang,

I just recently added a wokguard + 20 moa rail to my talonp, and I must say it's a day and night difference and addresses the flex I felt as well as just adding a little weight in the right places.

That blackworks stuff is pricey, but if it works, hey that's what about.

Really like the wokguard / rail combo a lot. I also have a heavy ergonomic grip that adds more weight but need to modify it a little to make it fit.
1573750701_15568777105dcd87ade45a42.60992041_20191106_115910-1632x1224.jpg

 
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Bushings arrived. They look good from a machine wise. But realized they are not made to replace the factory or at least the one near the power wheel. 

The extra thickness is going to push the power wheel back. Should have thought about that?

So looks like they will be used between the 2 factory and farther toward the end of the frame if used at all.

Oring inter and outer as the 1 that comes with the sound loc kit. 

Looking at another stiffening method on the pistol grip to the butt and adding another tactical dovetail rail to the top frame.

My bedded forearm is touching the lower rail the full length of my new forearm. 

Cold weather here so no playing in the shop. I have started a grip to butt stiffener but I have another ideal to material. With Choate machine local I may go by there and look at his blem stocks and see about FINDING 1 I could bed and convert to the AF. 💀
Click to expand...

It looks like there is a bit of material that could be removed between the edge and the o-ring groove on each side. Do you think doing such would allow the rearmost bushing to fit?
 
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Machining is an option that I am looking at? Very easy lathe job. 

I'm really not worried about weight. I've got 2 12" rails coming. Cheap ones that I will use at least on the top rail. Have ideal of one on the lower rail installing all the way to the wokguard. Then install my home made or factory rail. 

All this may be an Overkill but it will stiffen the frame. 

A support or at least elimanate some of the recoil on the bottle.

For $227 TTD the Raptor stock might be the better option? I'm just not sure of that low butt design ?

More to come! 💀👍
 
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1573774819_12651171815dcde5e38edcf9.58124259_IMG_GWAG STK.jpg
Took time to check.the bushings for lathe work? Looks like removal of material will get into the o ring area. Not really wanting to remove 1 side. I might be able to save them but the wheel plus the barrel will be pushed back. Not an ideal mod. 

Went by Choate to look at stocks and found little that might work. I can.buy blems cheap so I walked out with a $25 blem and extra butt spacers to move the butt back if needed. 

So.the mod started with the wokguard in place. It looks like the extra tactical lower rail will work. Attachments are going to.be on the forearm and the WG.

Right now as it sits its looking like a Thumb hole will be made to reach the trigger and save removing stock material. 

Excuse.the messy shop. Cold weather and no shop time has left it a wreck.💀
 
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More thought? I could lathe the power wheel face for the difference in material thickness. Re-cut the wheel face for the bearing, but I"M not sure that pushing the power wheel back that little bit will hurt. It should only preload the hammer spring Also I was wrong on the barrel moving back. 

I can not really do much on the stock till the tactical rails arrive. Yesterday when I went to Choate for the stock I put the barrel back in with 1 set. I also slide my extra AF barrel bushing that came with a baffle set into the end of the barrel to frame. This bushing also had the 2 o rings, 1 inter and 1 outer. Took any play out of the barrel to frame. I think the oring bushings should be a plus and cause not harm. they will improve the fit of the bushing to frame. Again may be an over kill.

Till the rails come in I may proceed with the barrel install and do some shooting. I would at least like to see the difference the TT heavy spring makes.

On another note the AF barrel is at least on mine a rear tapered machining. The Muzzle is more or less a 16mm size. The rear not so. I tryed sliding the rear factory busing over the muzzle end of the barrel onlyto find it slid a bit and stopped. After using my mic I discovered the rear taper.

When I re o ringed my AZ Theoben MKII .25 I pulled the barrel to clean it and replace the barrel o rings. AZ cuts in rear orings that seal the TP AREA. I have pushed pellets down the bore many times on this gun and it does as most LW barrels have a real tight choke. I though I WOULD DRESS UP THE CROWN? I USE the barrel face and crown pilot type tools. I grabbed the fresh .25 pilot and it would not attempt to go in the bore? Tried my older pilot and a no go? I thought maybe AZ had maybe chopped the barrel at the choke. Pushing a pellet I found the choke to be In the area most are. But never all the way out the bore?

This is a first for me on any barrel. The gun shoots the 31 gr @ 980. The gun is not pellet picky and the accuracy is unbelievable esp now finding that the bore is way tight? OD OF THE MUZZLE END IS SHY of the 16mm size and the bore ID is less than .25. 

THANKS

FANG
 
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More work the stock. This is an SKS stock. The forearm is made from.the cheek rest that came with the stk. It is fitted now covering the lower plate cutout. 

The stock is now sitting as it should allowing an attachment to the WG AR pistol grip area. The forearm will allow for a 2nd attachment to the ordered tactical rail for stiffening. 

The bedding should make a solid stk. I am looking at a possible change of the pistol grip. The SKS stock has a 2 piece grip as you can.see it is removed. I've got keep the back of the grip for the strength for the rear butt area. I may just use the stocks current pistol grip but I do not care for it. 

As the stock sits it is still off the the bottle. 💀 The stock has sling studs. The front of the stock will likely be shortened for the use of a weaver to dovetail rail for the bi pod? At this time that is up in the air. Easy to install.a weaver rail to the stock or use a sling stud bi pod mount which I have. ☠

1573840241_10990801505dcee5717de327.66221100_GWAGW FOREARM.jpg

 
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Why not just move the bushing a bit forward on the barrel or does that throw the holes in the frame out of alignment? My AF barrels are not machined for bushing placement. On mine it would just leave a mark where the grub screw had bit into the barrel surface! That stock should work. I bet you could machine a piece of hard maple to interface between the stock and the gun then coat it with Rustoleum Truck Undercoating so the AF lower rail could bed into it.
 
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Not sure just how many are following this project but im sharing all of it here and on my own forum.

Using everything that came with the stock. 
The SKS stk came with a top muzzle cover. I've trimmed it to to fill a deep void in the stock . This will save bedding material and still be solid .
As you I have filled for the most.with play -Doh for my bedding indicator. 
Not using the extra tactical rail on the lower frame now. The rail was going to have stk material removed . Avoiding any more material removal . Fiber strand bondo will stick.great to.the fiberglass/poly stk material.💀 To cold today for bedding. But as you can see the project is well on its way💥

I'll wrap the gun in a thin plastic and tape off the complete outer stock. Then set the stock on the frame. Clamp it in place and allow to set. 💀

1573936302_9903066435dd05cae1f5e82.46791988_1406.jpeg

 
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