? about FFP

A little background first. I bought my first FFP scope and installed it on my rifle, sighted in at 30 yards, (the distance I take most squirrels at) and went squirrel hunting today. I had a hard time spotting a squirrel in the scope because dummy me had it set to 14X and the field of view was too narrow. (I hunt at 6X). I left it alone, but had a difficult time the rest of the hunt until I remembered this was a new scope and it's a FFP. I set the magnification to 6X and continued my hunt but never did see another squirrel.

My question: 

I know the hold overs don't change with the magnification because the reticle changes with the power. If I zero the scope at 30 yards on 14X, will it still hold a 30 yard zero on 6X?


 


My question: 

I know the hold overs don't change with the magnification because the reticle changes with the power. If I zero the scope at 30 yards on 14X, will it still hold a 30 yard zero on 6X?


That is going to depend upon the quality of the optic. FFP is supposed to allow you to change the magnification without causing a change in the zero. If the glass is good that should hold close enough that you won't be able to detect any change. The easiest thing to do is shoot it and confirm for yourself. That is why I keep things simple with my hunting rifles. Fixed 10x for squirrels in the rifles that I trust beyond 40 yards and fixed 6x in the rifles I use for hunting in the deep woods. Nothing ever changes.
 
I started using first focal plane scopes last year on two new rifles. The graduations on my vortex diamondback and the swfa Scopes are 1 MOA per tick mark and are extremely fine. There is the rub: for such scopes with very fine markings, you cannot see each tick mark distinctly unless you are zoomed in pretty far. I generally keep them at 12x or 15x magnification.

Mil-dot graduated reticles have more spacing between aim points than MOA graduations I believe, and are probably easier to read at lower magnifications.


 
The zero should remain unless there is something wrong with the scope.

I'm just mentioning the below for anyone reading this that is considering FFP.

FFP has it's benefits most useful on mid to high magnification, so for you it might not work out. The FFP reticles with finer lines are very hard to see on low magnification. If you have illumination you could turn it on max to hopefully see the reticle in the daytime on darker objects. 

The scopes I own that I'd use for squirrel hunting are a 1-8 FFP with daylite bright illume, and a few SFP scopes with 3 and 4 magnification on the low end for more FOV, all to be able to make out the reticle on the lowest magnification. All my other scopes are mid to high mag FFP which are for long range, when I'm expecting to holdover and to holdoff in wind, be it on a pellet gun or a PB.

As some have found out, FFP is not for them, for the most part. 


 
Crosshair center does not change with power change for FFP or SFP scopes. Only the dots or lines above or below the crosshair. If you dial range you are using the center crosshair for aiming. Does anyone use their reticle for range finding? I only use my mil dots or moa dots for aiming points and never change power so FFP or SFP does not matter to me. I have both and dial for range or use holdover reference marks on my range card. Have fun, Scott
 
The scope in question is an Arken SH-4 4-14X44 FFP. I did find the reticle too thin for hunting, especially against a dark background. This may end up on my HW100BP which I mainly use to snipe starlings and hosps at high magnification. Being left handed and short of arm, the side wheels are not easy to reach on my Daystate Regal, so I'm looking at the SWFAs with the AO focus at just in front of the eye piece. Anyone who owns one, would the SWFA with AO eye piece conflict with a Tactacam Film Thru Scope mount? I have one on order.
 
The scope in question is an Arken SH-4 4-14X44 FFP. I did find the reticle too thin for hunting, especially against a dark background. This may end up on my HW100BP which I mainly use to snipe starlings and hosps at high magnification. Being left handed and short of arm, the side wheels are not easy to reach on my Daystate Regal, so I'm looking at the SWFAs with the AO focus at just in front of the eye piece. Anyone who owns one, would the SWFA with AO eye piece conflict with a Tactacam Film Thru Scope mount? I have one on order.

I read some reviews from users of the Arken on the Sniper’s Hide where they also stated they found the reticle too thin and easily lost against dark backgrounds. But that can be said about many non illuminated scopes. Why not an FFP with illumination? You don’t have to use the illumination unless you need it. For pesting in certain scenarios it’s indispensable.
 

I read some reviews from users of the Arken on the Sniper’s Hide where they also stated they found the reticle too thin and easily lost against dark backgrounds. But that can be said about many non illuminated scopes. Why not an FFP with illumination? You don’t have to use the illumination unless you need it. For pesting in certain scenarios it’s indispensable.



This is what I'm looking into. The scope cannot have the IR button on the eye piece though, or I will not be able to mount the Tactacam.


 

I read some reviews from users of the Arken on the Sniper’s Hide where they also stated they found the reticle too thin and easily lost against dark backgrounds. But that can be said about many non illuminated scopes. Why not an FFP with illumination? You don’t have to use the illumination unless you need it. For pesting in certain scenarios it’s indispensable.



This is what I'm looking into. The scope cannot have the IR button on the eye piece though, or I will not be able to mount the Tactacam.


My Aztec Emerald FFP and Athlon Helos FFP both have the IR knob as part of the paralex assembly where the windage and elevation turrets are so you can use a Tactacam. There are others that might suit that requirement.