...... after lube-tune ....... it's been raining lots around here lately , so i violated my gamo warranty ... i was tempted to put a beefier spring in it (one i'd have to cut down a few coils from a .20 webley / hatsan vmx - np2 rams fit in those).... but now i'm glad i didnt. it's just been thru the first 200ct tin of 20 grain ftt's and averages 610 fps and the spread is about 10 fps. i didnt even really need the sun optics spring compressor, but i'm a bigger fella and ....probably should just delete all that , huh ? .....honed the compression chamber, used mobilux 111 heavy, tar-like black lithium liberally - only on the 5 coils from top of the spring guide to the bottom of piston (ray moody of alaska taught me that dampening strategy) where the spring would usually vibrate the most ("make it like spider webs" - chris pryjomski , c.a.p. airgun research) , using 300 grit sandpaper - i hand sand the last 1" of the piston and the top 1/3" of it where the piston seal comes into the piston. the idear here is to roughen the top and sides of seal enough so that it re-seats against the newly honed wall of the air chamber. i then make certain that rub off all and any sand or grit from piston and seal with some cotton cloth - denim is best. i put a very thin film of honda atv molly lube (learned that honda lube trick from c.a.p. , too) all over and around the seal. this does a few things, helps the piston seal slide in better without getting cut or knicked and provides just a bit of lube to get into those 'x' shaped , or cross-hatched scratches i made inside the air chamber with the automotive brake hone...that's kinda what i think makes the break barrels, or spring / ram - piston airguns shoot more consistently across the chronograph. it surely helps me with longer shots, and in the case of a light or medium power .25 caliber which falls off after 25 yards, to know my pellets are falling in basically the same trajectory. -- [[ consistency of shot velocity is second to barrel accuracy in my airgun world. good benji pumpers and sheridans are usually 3-4 fps variation with good pellets, old uk webleys 3-7 fps, and good regulated pcp's are about 2 fps deviance ]] -- then, i used a small flathead to evenly go around the last 1/2" of the piston with a thicker coat - this where one would put buttons on the piston because the piston is made to rub more closely here inside the tube..... the np2 pistons have built in buttons in this area - the pistons are the best part made of an np2 - imo.... i used just enough of that grey honda atv molly, which seems to me identical to macarri's molly (but no one seems to know for sure what he uses for lubes - ancient chinese secret - and i have heard all sorts of interpretations of his tar, everything from train box car axle grease to packing for horses hooves...idk... i have some of the original beeman lubes in the small white canisters and that's even more of mystery).... i lightly coated the first 5-7 coils with honda molly just enough so that there would be less friction inside the piston where i generally use the straight sides of a 2 ltr plastic bottle to make a sheath inside the piston , kinda like diana uses a metal one. keeps lube from getting in front of the piston and dieseling. ....i'm gonna tackle the sat trigger next.... (shoddy-ass trigger) . i like the cat triggers better. here's how the other one i had came out : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pguPuSZlwzU
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