.25 caliber pellet sizing.

Forums Pellets, Projectiles, Slugs, & Ammo .25 caliber pellet sizing.

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    smallgame
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    Would you trust this  method  of slugging safe for a Benjamin marauder 25 caliber?

    http://www.surplusfirearm.com/2012/02/21/size-does-matter-slugging-a-bore/

    After raiding what you link me( did not see it before) I see that it’s perty much the same thing. With that said I was trying to delete
    This post but could not find a way.

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    Yrrah
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    Heads do vary in size.
    Yrrah-rolling after full length sizing will show an occasional pellet with an undersized head (those that had heads too small to be sized) rolling in a definite arc different to the others.

    If you are just sizing skirts then by rolling you can batch according to head size differences.

    Note that full length sizing still generally results in a slight arc in rolling due to frictional differences between the generally larger “flat” resulting on the skirt compared to that on the head.

    The best of pellets may not show any significant grouping difference at close ranges. At 100 yards I feel that rolling reduces the average 5 shot group size by about 0.20 to 0.25 inches with best pellets.

    I don’t full length size for spring guns which depend upon the skirt flare fit to the lead-in of the barrel for their characteristic power pulse.  A fractional skirt sizing may help with MV consistency providing that there is still a satisfactory skirt seal that allows for consistent resistance and start-pressure build-up. ……….. Kind regards, Harry.

     

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    jking
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    AJ, what do you think on a FX ST 25 barrel, push the pellet all the way through and get some average max OD’s? Would you air towards a die slightly smaller, slightly larger or exact if it measures that way?  I’ve got three tins of 25.4’s weigh sorted, which has proved better results than “out of the tin” and I have rolled some of the these weighed pellets and have seen an additional improvement. I’m very interested in trying the sizing now. Great information here. Thanks all.
    jimmy
     

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    ajshoots
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    Jimmy, just load a pellet and push it back out. The OD of the Smooth portion is what you need.

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    jking
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    Got your PM AJ, thanks
    jk

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    smallgame
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    I don’t no anything about sizing all I know is it helps be more accurate. My gun loves jsb kings and they shoot well at 30 yards never shoot pass it but if it make a  difference past 30 yards I might do even better at shorter range as well. With that said do I need to but both the die body and the bushing if I plan on pushing them by hand with a  knitting needle?

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    jking
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    Small game, I bought the NOE whole kit and caboodle. Way more pieces than what I needed to size 25cal pellets. Basically if you go the NOE route all you’ll need will be the die body, your bushings of choice and the push rod as in the photo. You might contact NOE and see if they will just sell you the basics.
    I think this is all  you need..

    And probably not all of this like I purchased

     

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    smallgame
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    Ok thanks jking. I just like being as  accurate as humanly possible.  Growing up when I would go hunting with my best friend stepdad and we did squirrel and rabbit hunting he would make us call out where we’re going to shoot.  If we did not hit our mark when we retrieved our kill you ware done shooting for the day. He encouraged us to practice as much as we can so that the next shot we know where it’s going to hit. now I’m trying to lead my  daughter with his example. 

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    smallgame
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    Wouldn’t I be better off going with a lee die even if just for the price ? And push then by hand anyways? Just asking.

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    jking
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    If NOE would let you piece mill an order like the first picture you might get that pretty cheap. I don’t know what that price would be but then all you would need to change to a 22cal or different sized 25’s would be a $9.75 bushing. That’s the reason I went this direction.
    jimmy

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    ajshoots
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    I was unaware you couldn’t buy the NOE stuff just how you want. In that case, I would just get Lee dies.

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    jking
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    Six pieces come together as far as the web site list it, the die body, four caliber specific sleeves that I didn’t need and a punch holder that you don’t need either if your doing it by hand and its $40. They very well might sell all the components separate but it wasn’t listed that way on the site. Might be worth a call to them and just get what is needed.
    jimmy
    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=104_410&products_id=2415

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    fe7565
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    I am using these in .22 and .25. The pellets remain tapered. Very consistent and easy to use, no damage to the pellets.  Once you find the right head size, note the number of threads on the adjustable shaft so you can go back to that size anytime. 

    http://www.trrobb.com/product/adjustable%20pellet%20sizer%20177

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    CampFussell
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    “ajshoots”Jimmy, just load a pellet and push it back out. The OD of the Smooth portion is what you need.

    
AJ, I’m a little slow to the party here. I’ve been considering this pellet sizing you guys recommend. So earlier today I sorted about a 100 of the 13.43 gr JSB Monsters for head size with my Pellet Gauge. Had a little over 75 pellets at 4.54  and just 6 at 4.55 and 17 at 4.53. None over the 4.55 and none under the 4.53. So that’s a .01 plus or minus out of roughly 100 pellets.

    So now I’m thinking I should take a pellet and push it into the breech just like I was gonna fire it, but push it back out. Take that pellet and run it through the pellet gauge to determine my barrel diameter. What ever opening it passes that is the smallest through my gauge I should size the larger diameter pellets to that diameter?

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    ajshoots
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    If it is a traditional rifled barrel (non smoothtwist) I recommend loading a pellet then pushing it in a few inches if possible. Then push it back out. Most barrels have a leade or chamber cut for loading pellets, so you need to push the pellet in a bit so you are certain it fully engages the rifling.

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    CampFussell
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    “ajshoots”If it is a traditional rifled barrel (non smoothtwist) I recommend loading a pellet then pushing it in a few inches if possible. Then push it back out. Most barrels have a leade or chamber cut for loading pellets, so you need to push the pellet in a bit so you are certain it fully engages the rifling.

    
Thanks, will do!

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    Crutcherro1
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    After reading this post I decided to order a NOE sizer 0.250 and give it a try. My RAW HM1000x 25 cal ‘Raquel’ really likes JSB King 25.39 gr. But the JSB King Heavy and the MKII 33.95 gr didn’t group well. I received the sizer yesterday and ran a few of each of those pellets thru it. 

    Today I was able give the sized pellets a try at 30 and 50 yards, rested on sand bags. They all shot equally well with no flyers. 👍

    Next I’m going to size, weigh and stretch Raquel’s legs to 75 and 100 yards. 

    Thank you you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. I’m having a ball….

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    Azycray
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    Anyone have any experience re-sizing pellets for a Smooth Twist barrel? I just got an Fx Impact last month and am trying to benefit from others experience so I don’t have to reinvent the wheel so to speak.

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    Azycray
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    I didn’t notice there were other pages before I posted, now that I have read them all I am going to order some dies. Not sure which ones yet. Can someone explain the “rolling” that was discussed? Not sure what that is, or what it accomplishes.

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    Goodtogo
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    Well rolling a pellet is done on a piece of glass. For me its more what sound it makes than a visual thing. And I think most use a mirror. That’s what I use anyway and when I roll them I like to see that they all end up in the same spot at the end of the roll. Its mainly voodoo anyway ;)

    edit: Well I didn’t wake up Yrrah with that answer so if you want to know the real reason go back a page to Yrrah post 10/16/16 at 4:40 he explains it so well. And its the reason I call it the Y-roll for pellets. ;)

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