Don’t actually own a 2240 pcp conversion yet, but I’m seeing a band on like 95% of your guns, so must be in most cases necessary I do feel it messes with that mid century modern, space gun esthetic though.
2240 pcp w/barrel band. will it not float?
- Thread starter sturba
- Start date
With the steel breech (receiver), you can do without the band if you want. Solid anchoring to the receiver is the name of the game so I like to add a second grub screw. Also the barrel is typically a sloppy fit so I will apply a turn or two of tape to the barrel to make it a slip fit.
Just bear in mind the front of the receiver is held to the air tube with only a #4-48 screw threaded into the thickness of the tube. While I can’t personally imagine ever striking the barrel on something hard enough to pull out that little screw, it doesn’t inspire confidence.
Just bear in mind the front of the receiver is held to the air tube with only a #4-48 screw threaded into the thickness of the tube. While I can’t personally imagine ever striking the barrel on something hard enough to pull out that little screw, it doesn’t inspire confidence.
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Well if a structural integrity thing... I’ll leave it on
thank you for the explanation. knew there had to be a good one, but without hands on, a mystery
thank you for the explanation. knew there had to be a good one, but without hands on, a mystery
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do your self a favor what your gun gets built
have him put on a 1720 complete trigger frame and the hammer needed for that frame, it is an up grade that needs to be done on a 500+ dollar pistol
on the barrel band i have seen as many as 3 used, barrel stability keeps your POI consistent
i also think a little longer barrel and one made from LW barrel stock would be also be what is needed
and i also think you could build you own, it more then like a Cothran valve
https://cothranmachine.com/powerhouse-valve-for-7-8-250-transfer/
https://cothranmachine.com/#air-tubes--valves
just some thoughts and info
have him put on a 1720 complete trigger frame and the hammer needed for that frame, it is an up grade that needs to be done on a 500+ dollar pistol
on the barrel band i have seen as many as 3 used, barrel stability keeps your POI consistent
i also think a little longer barrel and one made from LW barrel stock would be also be what is needed
and i also think you could build you own, it more then like a Cothran valve
https://cothranmachine.com/powerhouse-valve-for-7-8-250-transfer/
https://cothranmachine.com/#air-tubes--valves
just some thoughts and info
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I agree on the trigger. The direct sear is awful in OEM form and passable with a sufficient amount of polishing and shimming and a lighter spring but it will never compare favorably to a decent drop-sear design.
Back to the topic of the barrel band, I assumed you are planning to keep it in pistol form based on the example photo. If instead you decide to go with a long barrel, a long tube and a barrel band are very nearly a requirement. The relatively small barrel OD of 7/16” with a .22 cal bore means it is a limp noodle hanging out there in the breeze. Harmonic vibration would likely produce unsatisfactory accuracy without additional support somewhere along its length.
Back to the topic of the barrel band, I assumed you are planning to keep it in pistol form based on the example photo. If instead you decide to go with a long barrel, a long tube and a barrel band are very nearly a requirement. The relatively small barrel OD of 7/16” with a .22 cal bore means it is a limp noodle hanging out there in the breeze. Harmonic vibration would likely produce unsatisfactory accuracy without additional support somewhere along its length.
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The very first mod I do on any 22xx gun build is to put on an aftermarket breech, never an ill fitting Crosman breech, so the barrel will fit decent. The next is I use a bigger breech screw as I don't trust that tiny 4/48 to hold lots of FPE, large scopes or any barrel well. I have used 5/48 but like the 6/40 or 8/40 better. I also put an extra breech screw in line with the front grip screw so the breech is on there and it will support anything you do to the gun.
The larger center hole in the front goes all the way through this BNM breech and attaches it to the tube with an 8/40 screw.
Now you don't need the barrel band unless you have a rifle length barrel. The brass adapter is for an FX STX barrel liner conversion.
The next mod is the 1720 grip as stated in marflow's and nervoustrig's post the trigger is just so much better it has to be done as the addiction requires it..
The larger center hole in the front goes all the way through this BNM breech and attaches it to the tube with an 8/40 screw.
Now you don't need the barrel band unless you have a rifle length barrel. The brass adapter is for an FX STX barrel liner conversion.
The next mod is the 1720 grip as stated in marflow's and nervoustrig's post the trigger is just so much better it has to be done as the addiction requires it..
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A treasure trove of information! And it sounds like I’ll be needing every bit of it. While bought mainly for the look, It’s going to be doing some work, including tethered power shots until I know the gun. If it rattles about and won’t group at any speed, then it gets either some money or a nice display box.
I know the blue book says 1999 for the model 2240, but in this guise it looks like 1959 which is what I find so attractive
Many Thanks,
Scott
I know the blue book says 1999 for the model 2240, but in this guise it looks like 1959 which is what I find so attractive
Many Thanks,
Scott
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You could move the barrel band rearward, against the breech for extra support where it counts -
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