YongHeng rebuilt

Let me start with, I am not an electrician, this why is my question coming.

Last week I replaced the oil (second time) in my YH after some 30+ Hrs, but I forget that somewhere back this summer I replaced the oil in my garage compressor as well and forgot to buy more oil....so I replaced the oil and I saw that the YH level is very low, still I ran it for almost an hour to top up my scba.

And happened as expected, the piston arm seized on the crankshaft. No problem, I have spare (a complete) cylinder bought it on time from aliexpress directly from YH. Yesterday rebuilt the compressor completely from new parts.

And now I learned what people were asking questions "why the YH shots down, and why the YH cannot build up a pressure to 300 bar"

Most likely the friction on new (=machined) parts is still way too high and need some time to wear out properly.

All plugged in into my washing machine wall plug and keeps kicking out the automatic breaker in the electrical box.

I connected an AMP meter and running the compressor, watching the number is up at about 22. amps until the breaker kicks out. I remember the "old compressor last week I never had to turn the valves off could start even fully pressurized and it was drawing about 18-19 amps.

I will try to "break in" the new compressor first for an hour or two just on empty run, but would that be clever enough to replace the breaker to a next size as well?

Nice weather outside going now to walk to my Home Depot I would buy one, maybe one the same size and one next size up.
 
Breaker size is dicated by wire gauge (and amperage/voltage). It can be a safety hazard and fire hazard to replace a smaller breaker with a larger breaker if the wire gauge is not capable of handling the breaker rating. Your washing machine, depending on age of the home, is likely on a 15 amp 14/2 circuit. It may or may not be on a GCFI.

If it is 14/2 you cannot upgrade the 15 amp breaker to 20 amp. If it is 12/2 and on a 20 amp breaker you cannot upgrade it to a 30 amp breaker.

The breaker is there to trip before there is heating/thermal/load damage to the wire.

In my area I have not seen a washing machine on a 20 amp circuit. Breakers usually trip based on load/current draw over a given time domain. 22 amps on a 15 amp circuit would eventually trip as you've described.
 
Sounds like the motor may be damaged. Or your piston to head clearance may have wound up too tight. I cant imagine friction being that excessive unless something is very wrong.

I soldered the connections on my yong heng and this helped with its eventual hesitation to crank up. 

I am hoping you replaced the crankshaft.

Mine actually has a bent crank (from piston contacting cylinder head) and operates with some conrod journal walk. No excessive wear and my oil stays clean, but it does generate a little extra heat on the bottom end I have to keep an eye on. Been like this over a year lol. I had to take some off the top of my piston and I had to reduce tension on the check valve. 
 
In mean time, meaning immediately couple hours ago, I spoke to a friend of my he is an electrician. He told me over there in middle EU they have breakers, slow or fast. He recommended me to get a slow 15 Amp breaker. I was already walking to the store (my HD about 5-10 minutes walk) when these conversation happened.

And turns out Home Depot, doesn't have any circuit breakers, non across Canada, all empty shelf...... ????

WTF, these things shall be made and available locally? these things are not a container goods.

Am I am missing something here? not just the 15-20 amp braker, but lets dive deeper...........................last year there were toilet papers...............
 
Am I am missing something here?

Yes. You're missing that you're attempting to circumvent a safety device in favor of running a broken compressor drawing too much current well past the inductive start-up current phase. That said, to each their own, and enjoy :)

fire-marshall-bill-on-fire.1635452200.gif

 
Am I am missing something here?

... you're attempting to circumvent a safety device in favor of running a broken compressor drawing too much current....


False, I am not attempting nothing....there were conversations in the past that YH's drawing 20+ amps and triggering the breakers. I don't know if 15 amps or 20 amps, I am not an electrician, I just have tools and toys I am not trained to read.

My YH and previous state (last week, with 30+ Hrs running time sliding smooth on surfaces) was drawing between 18-20 amps at 4000 psi.

I am saying the new double piston head is in stage "out of the box" from mfg and the machined surfaces most likely need some time to "burn-in".

I am not trying to save $$$ I can buy a new compressor any moment but that will be a YH again , if I could find any locally and no waiting for 30-40 days.

I don't trust that saying "an expensive machine last longer"........machines brake....and you don't control that how or when that will happen.

Edit:

The moral of the story for my previous comment is that my electrical box is Federal Pioneer, and Home Depot have no breakers for that MFG in Canada? .............


 
The breaker size is typically stamped on every breaker handle/switch. Running 20 amps on a 20 amp breaker will eventually trip the breaker as it heats up and weakens the magnet inside of said breaker. Also of note….Federal panels are notorious for causing fires, and I have replaced many in my career. Sorry to sound like the grim reaper. 
 

The brand makes no difference, there are only a few different styles of breaker for a home service. Please show us the inside of your breaker panel with a breaker removed unless you have some blank spaces on the buss bars.

This was very educational, I never paid attention to other text on the electrical box and there is it, with big black letters on the box shows "Stab-Lok". And my favourite breaker that was making me hard time today is blue and 15A.

I will outsource to a pro electrician to test/troubleshoot the compressor, but what I have noticed that it was drawing big Amps when it got over 200 bars. I don't know how to duplicate that scenario to the guy if I take the YH there.

Also, I just grab the very last YongHeng from Wes @ AAF, I don't like to do these kind of impulse buying especially when overpriced if I know the cost at ali, but well....lets take it from a positive side, as a convenience. 
 
You probably want to double check with your electrician buddy, I think all (a whole bunch) of FPE/Stab-lok stuff got recalled due to fire hazard. FP in Canada is Federal Pacific Electric in USA. They're just rebranded.

As to the money comments, I'm just trying to educate you on an unsafe condition you may be creating. I have no vested interest in this thread so I'll salute you and wish you the best in your efforts. Good luck, stay safe, and have fun!


 
.....

...I'm just trying to educate you on an unsafe condition you may be creating...

I totally agree that there is no room to play with electrical stuff especially if I am far away with my basic education and thanks for all comments and advises.

I will be back to Home Depot again I may need to replace that one 15A breaker, it was really working very hard yesterday.

Back to YH story, again I had a dedicated time yesterday to top up the large tank and I could not push the pressure above 250 bars (a rebuilt head w completely new parts so some friction is there between moving parts) w/o the breaker shot down, it was drawing 22 amps (through a 15A breaker)

In contrast to just couple days ago I cold refill to 300 bars (with not overly worn internal parts, from my mechanical view these parts looks good in my hands only the piston rod is seized). And it was drawing 19-20 amps, I don't know how long, maybe last couple months, maybe all the time. I installed the Amp meter only out of curiosity because of comments earlier within this same subforum.

So a Question again. What is a max your YH compressor is drawing amps under a heavy load?
 
Again, federal panels are notorious for fires. The fact that you’re pulling 20 amps through a 15 amp breaker is exactly why they have that reputation. The wire is protected by the breaker, and in your case that ain’t happening and you are overheating the branch wiring, not good. It is critical for these little compressors to have the required current available, in this case 20 amps, less current will stress both the compressor and the branch wiring feeding it. 
 
In the meantime, see if there are 20 amp breaker’s in the panel, if so, identify the circuit on the 20 amp breaker and try plugging in there. Kitchen countertop outlets are typically 20 amp circuit’s, but not always. Even an undersized extension cord with have a negative effect on current availability. Do not trust the breaker to protect your wiring, keep an eye on it. 
Where I used to live, insurance companies would not insure a home with federal panels, do not overload you circuit, Please.