Yong Heng wear?

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ApexPredator

ApexPredator

Member
Jan 5, 2021
70
7
GA, United States
My compressor has been run for less than three hours so far. I changed the oil after the first 10 minutes of running with no load. One hour intervals after that. I was waiting for the oil to look cleaner before extending the periodicity of my oil changes. This is the oil I bought to start with, and used it for first three run cycles.

PXL_20210209_145219892.1612884473.jpg


This is what it looks like after the third oil change and one hour of run time. It was perfectly clear to start with.

PXL_20210209_145829283.1612884538.jpg




I now have the purple stuff in it, and it's not going to be as easy to see when it's contaminated. Do you other folks with this compressor have similar experiences? I started with no load for first ten minutes. I then filled a 80 cuft SCUBA tank to 3200 psi in four different sessions. I am now charging a 66 cuft SCBA and am at 3200 after two twenty minute sessions.


 
I just used the Husky ISO 46 it called for in the manual in the beginning and it got dark like yours at about 40 minutes the first time. I changed to the Husky synthetic blend, they sell at Home Depot, after that and did not have to change for like six or eight hours and it probly could have gone longer. The oil in it now has been in there for many hours and is still pretty clear looking so will probly go for the year between changes. I don't use any oil that does not allow me to see if the oil needs changed or not. That just doesn't seem like a good idea.

Not sure about your problem as the oil says it is non detergent and compressor oil so it should be fine. 

Still I think most of us are changing out our oil way to soon as the manual states 50 hours for first change and 100 hours after that. Like these things would last that long. ;^)


 
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I think it's wise to do an early oil change - the first time. That's just cleaning out any manufacturing debris as well as any high-spots and burrs that wear quickly during initial use. After that - like a car engine, just follow the recommended schedule. (I do an early change for any engine, machine tool, or compressor - HPA or not.) I'm sure in some cases it makes no difference, but it's likely to make a bigger difference on cheaper things (e.g. YH compressors) and it's cheap insurance.

GsT
 
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Houston, we have a problem! My SCBA tank was approaching 3500 psi when the charging station connection to the CGA 347 valve on the tank started leaking. I shut the main tank valve, bled the line, bled the compressor, and disconnected/reconnected the charging station. Everything seemed ok, so I restarted the charging cycle. No leaks were detected, but I started losing pressure slowly on the whole system, while the compressor was running. At 3200 psi, I shut the tank and started the compressor shut down sequence. The charging station valve was cold, covered in condensate, and almost frozen. This was about ten minutes into the charge after I noticed a leak and reconnected the valve. Any ideas?
 
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The Yong Heng is not rated to 4500 psi. It s 300 bar. 310 bar is 4500. I'm not even going to bother tell you why the oils shown here are completely improper, as seems no one pays attention of cares. But not one of the oils listed here is rated for HP air compressors and the reed valves are going to carbon quickly, not to mention the carbon which is an abrasive is going to prematurely damage the high side rings. Count on it!

Has anyone noticed that Y.H. has stopped recommending #46 and now recommends Mobil Rarus 827? It all about the flash point and the carbon caused by any dead dinosaur crap oil. Period. Blend is no help whatsoever. One only has to look at he long list of AV 4500 compressors to understand why. 

the better oils are not to prevent wear. Any good oil can do this. However the high side piston lives in a scorching, hellish environment. The oil must have an unusually high flash point. Well over 450 deg F to prevent carbon from damaging the piston, rings, and cylinder. Not to mention blocking the reed valve open which can drive the high sice piston right thru the low side pistons top. GRRRRRRR!!!!! Not to mention it can no longer build full pressure or will be slower and slower due to the reed being held open by the carbon deposits. l 



Proper oil is very expensive, but last a huge amount of tome longer. Rarus is very-very expensive, and is not even listed as suitable for dive air. There are alternatives. Check out Nuvair. They are the Coltri dealer and have a fantastic price on the oil by the gallon.

https://www.nuvair.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5fim59Bb21ah1a5xE_5YA1VqIAuN3j-SwBqvAdgl649urdoWzU97K4aAk0PEALw_wcB 



https://www.nuvair.com/nuvair-455.html#9406



Small quantities of Rarus 827. this fellow bottles it in amounts to fill our Y.H.compressors and does not charge shipping. It is appreciated!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOBIL-827-Rarus-12oz-Oil-4500-PSI-Extreme-HIGH-Pressure-Yong-Heng-Air-Compressor/274608618484?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649



Guess I made a liar out of myself, as I have once again explained why proper oils are important. LOL 😏

Knife
 
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I just read an article by Alkn that stated almost exactly what I posted here. Particularly the reed valves. Causes the compressor to run harder and much hotter if improper oil is used as it carbons the valves very quickly and can lead to complete failure. Even in a compressor as stout as the Alkin. I don't have to tell anyone that the Y.H. is far form as well engineered and built as the Alkin Units. 



Knife


 
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This From Alkin showing the importance of the proper oil. Keep in mind that the Alkin is a much sturdier built unit and father runs cooler. Which would indicate the little Y.H. would be doubly in need of proper oils.

Şekil 2-Compressor Unit W31 Series compressors are design and manufactured with intercooler serpentine located between 1st -2 nd Stage cylinders, and aftercooler located at the 3rd Stage outlet. There are water separators at the outlet of 2nd Stage intercooler and at outlet of 3rd Stage aftercooler. Water Separators are connected to auto drain valves that periodically drains the condensate water. The duration and frequency of opening of these drain valves are determined by the time relay located in the electric panel. (Please see Check section.) This time relay can be set for both functions. There is a Safety Valve at each stage to prevent an unwanted increase in pressure resulted from a problem in valves or any other parts. It must be periodically checked that, these safety valves are working properly and they keep their set pressure values. (Please see Maintenance Table.) W31 Series compressors are equipped with stainless valves at each stage that are designed to maintain the airflow without any loss of pressure. They are easy to maintain and replace. The maintenance of valves are especially important as they are the main parts in proper and problem-free working of compressors. Lubricants not approved by ALKIN can prevent valves from working properly due to the accumulation of carbon on springs and washers. Valves not working properly will cause an increase in working temperature and the deterioration of lubricant, thus in return, will further break down the valves. Max working pressure is 350 bar and, it is dangerous and strictly prohibited to set a value higher than 350 bar. ALKIN will not be held liable for any problems resulting from acting otherwise. Working temperature range of the compressor is –10/+50 ºC.

Knife 









Knife 
 
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