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Yong Heng oil change
- Thread starter K80
- Start date
2 years I would be surprised if I had more than 3 hrs total run time. I usually fill 1000-2900psi Gamo Urban 34secs, AirForce TalonSS and Brocock Commander 1.5 mins. No Load start and stop, Temp below 60C. First oil change, Needed to see what drained oil looked like. I would rather err on the over maintenance side. Bill
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di-ester based oil is best for high pressure compressors, they handle the elevated temps better
and an annual oil change is a good habit if you do not use the hr meter or do not get enough hrs in a single yr
and an annual oil change is a good habit if you do not use the hr meter or do not get enough hrs in a single yr
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Well to me I shoot my blitz a whole lot its got over 7000 rounds thru it full auto eats tins. Been filling often
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My first was a YH Clone, Using Royal Purple Syn 100, Developed carbon bits under back-flo plate. Repaired and now has Mobil rarus 827 in it. Runs perfect, I have it for a back-up now. Not everyone agrees, Many recommend Seco500 or Mobil rarus 827. Bill
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My first was a YH Clone, Using Royal Purple Syn 100, Developed carbon bits under back-flo plate. Repaired and now has Mobil rarus 827 in it. Runs perfect, I have it for a back-up now. Not everyone agrees, Many are using Seco500 or Mobil rarus 827. Bill
About 11oz. Should be at top of or just over the red dot. Bill
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My Yong Heng compressor connecting rod's pointed oil "dipping tip" that splash feeds oil around inside of the crankcase to the rod ends and cylinder walls broke off sometime recently. (Probably from harmonic vibration.) This breakage resulted in little to no oil being slung around the crankcase, and then the bottom crank journal seizing up with the bottom rod end temporarily. I got the seized rod end freed up using channel lock pliers, some back and forth movement and oil. Then I cleaned everything up good and added enough oil to ensure that there is no lack of being splash-oil fed again.
I use 1 pint of oil in that compressor now, and it works great again. I used to use 12 oz in them. Edit to add: Based on the static measurement of 16 oz. of oil, this is the minimum amount of oil to splash feed and barely touches the connecting rod at initial start-up.
Fluid measures 1-1/2" (38mm) up on a dipstick placed all the way to the bottom of the case. This level is just north of the top of the sight glass.
This seizing (and prior to seizing) resulted in a lot of "blackening" to the oil from the piston, rings, cylinder walls, wrist pin and crank journals all rubbing on oil-starved surfaces. A lot of the "black" in the oil that you guys are seeing is actually aluminum and steel burnishing against each other. It comes from both the crank journal and cylinder walls, where the piston, wrist pin, and connecting rod all wear against each other. If there were brass bushings pressed on the rod the oil won't blacken quite as bad as it does.
What was remarkable with the failure is the high compression side air pressure and air quality coming off the high compression piston was not effected by the oil-starved bottom end and didn't cause wear there. This is because the brass rod, piston rings, and cast steel walls are not so reliant on oil lube.
A modification that I do on my compressors to get better oil to the rod ends: When started after sitting for a length of time there is not much oil the journals happening. Likewise, when the oil is low for whatever reason it doesn't get much splash feeding going on. So to get more oil to the rod ends I drill these holes bigger and add a beveled chamfer to the top leading edge. This "funnel" now has the ability to grab more oil to feed the ends. It has worked out great, until the recent unrelated breakage occurred. It likely helped it to not seize as bad either.
I use 1 pint of oil in that compressor now, and it works great again. I used to use 12 oz in them. Edit to add: Based on the static measurement of 16 oz. of oil, this is the minimum amount of oil to splash feed and barely touches the connecting rod at initial start-up.
Fluid measures 1-1/2" (38mm) up on a dipstick placed all the way to the bottom of the case. This level is just north of the top of the sight glass.
This seizing (and prior to seizing) resulted in a lot of "blackening" to the oil from the piston, rings, cylinder walls, wrist pin and crank journals all rubbing on oil-starved surfaces. A lot of the "black" in the oil that you guys are seeing is actually aluminum and steel burnishing against each other. It comes from both the crank journal and cylinder walls, where the piston, wrist pin, and connecting rod all wear against each other. If there were brass bushings pressed on the rod the oil won't blacken quite as bad as it does.
What was remarkable with the failure is the high compression side air pressure and air quality coming off the high compression piston was not effected by the oil-starved bottom end and didn't cause wear there. This is because the brass rod, piston rings, and cast steel walls are not so reliant on oil lube.
A modification that I do on my compressors to get better oil to the rod ends: When started after sitting for a length of time there is not much oil the journals happening. Likewise, when the oil is low for whatever reason it doesn't get much splash feeding going on. So to get more oil to the rod ends I drill these holes bigger and add a beveled chamfer to the top leading edge. This "funnel" now has the ability to grab more oil to feed the ends. It has worked out great, until the recent unrelated breakage occurred. It likely helped it to not seize as bad either.
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Did the same here. I just stained up a perfectly good filter! Oil is still dark, but has a claimed flash point of 520F so hope the dark is not carbon. My sensibilities hates dark oil
At least no metal filings or broken splash rods found...back to filling!Upvote 0
Yup, once it's black, it will always be black. At least for any filtering you can do at home. But it seems to work just as well. Seems to me I read something years ago that said the motor oil we use in our cars doesn't actually break down, it just gets contaminated. Certainly, our little compressors are not running as hot as an internal combustion engine. If it were to break down, wouldn't it get thin or maybe clumpy? And I have yet to see any metal particles in it. So, I just keep it filtered and topped off (you will loose a little in the filtering process). Oh, by the way, filtering is easier if you heat it a little just before you run it thru the filter. I use a hot plate set on low for a few minutes and then run it thru 3 filters consecutively. Coffee filters are cheaper than Seco lube...
That's my take on it
Chris
That's my take on it
Chris
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That might do it. One could probably be sourced used on E**y.
Chris
Edit: I just looked and they can be had there quite cheaply, Just search for "lab centrifuge".
Chris
Edit: I just looked and they can be had there quite cheaply, Just search for "lab centrifuge".
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