Yong Heng impressions

I have my new Yong Heng compressor set up and am learning the process. I charged my SCUBA tank to 3200 psi over the course of four different sessions. I changed the oil twice, and it was very dirty both times. The compressor generates lots of moisture! I'm waiting on my long filter, so I made do with the one that came with the unit, with an additional filter that is about twice as big and I filled with desiccant beads. Even though the beads were still mostly blue, I was getting water spray from the far side of my two filters when disconnecting (very slight pressure still in line after bleeding). I changed cigarette type, foam filters, and desiccant between every session. I have a 45 min SCBA tank to fill, but I am waiting on my larger oil/water separator. Do any of you folks have experience with trying to filter the air intake on these compressors?
 
Are you remembering to purge the high side pressure release about every five minutes to blow off collected water? Also make sure to have all your lines going uphill so any water that condenses runs back toward the high side blow off. My system only has two filters, the tampon one and one similar to an Air Megga that I put molecular sieve in and I have had no problems with water in my tank or guns. 
 
if your filling a 'tank' (which you should vs direct to gun ) simply invert the tank and purge any water ... its not a perfect world .. you could probably filter from tank to gun if your real picky but likely lose a few psi .. anyhow the 'real' issue the way i see it is water and corrosion damage to your pump .. for one, use the thing in a low humidity environment like an ac'ed room thats 30% humidity vs outside in your tropical paradise garage where its 90% humidity .... secondly you might want to consider actuslly breaking the pump partially down and blowing it out, drying and protecting fittings check valves blocks lines etc, before putting it away .. for casual use if you got a decent tank that should work like titys ... hope that gave you some ideas ..
 
Inverting the tank shouldn't really release moisture UNLESS there's over 2.5" of moisture when inverted due to small "siphon" tube at the bottom of the tank valve assembly. If there IS 2.5" of moisture something is very wrong! Also, while filling one should open the moisture trap release NOT the high pressure release side! Only open high pressure release before shutdown of YH to avoid leaving back pressure in unit. A one way foster fitting on the tank fill adapter keeps you from losing tank pressure while shutting down or bleeding moisture from the traps.
 
I run my Yong Heng in the basement with humidity average of 60% and have no problems with water getting into my tanks. As stated above if you are running in a garage or outside with higher humidity levels that is what you need to deal with. You could get several hundred dollars worth of filtration equipment instead I guess. If you got the wrong Yong Heng, the "Simple Version", that could be a problem also as it has no water filter aboard.



Here is my standard post to all things Yong Heng hope it is helpful.

The Yong Heng "Simple" version least expensive does not have a water separator you need one.

The "Auto Stop" version shuts off near 3000psi. Probly not a good thing for most people.

So you likely want the "Hardcover" or "Set Pressure" versions your choice on the 110V or 220V.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824234795.html?spm=a2g0o.store_home.productList_13760454.subject_2

Keep them cool and the oil, ISO 46 or the equivalent, topped off to the red circle in the sight glass, and don't fill past their spec which is 4350psi. A little less is better than the max, and the Yong Heng should last for years unless you get a bad one. I did my first oil change at about an hour, it was extremely dark colored. I went far longer, between changes, after that.

I have two YH compressors. Bought the second as a backup for the first as I fergot to turn on the coolant pump several times and overheated it until it smoked. It did not like it but it runs fine. Still I did not trust it after that. I added a switched outlet, to the system, so it turns the pump on before the compressor will power up to keep me from doing that from now on.

The second one, my back up unit, died in about two months bad QC from the factory. Cost me $12, for a new second stage piston, and an hours time to replace it. Then to add insult to injury I fergot to put oil in, the latest unit after I put it back together, and ran it for a couple of minutes without any. So I filled it with oil and it fired up and somehow still werqs fine. The #1 unit that I was worried about, cuz I overheated it so many times, just kept on filling my guns and tanks till I got #2 repaired and retired it.

I do not fill past 4200psi as when I do, all too often, I blow a burst disc. This does not happen on the first or second fill but soon thereafter.

The temperature sensor only measures head temperature so running it much over 20-30 minutes can overheat the motor and other parts even if ice is used in the coolant. Ice or a container of it, in the coolant, is a good idea especially if you are like me and do not use the full five gallons of water as suggested in the manual.

Keep your water supply level with the compressor to be kind to the pump and assure a good supply of coolant goes through the compressor.

I recently started using this Red Line water treatment after I noticed algae growth in my 2.5 gallon water bucket every few months. It seems to have stopped the algae growth problem.

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/coolant-water-wetter-additive/red-line-water-wetter-super-coolant-12oz/486218_0_0 

Keep your moisture filters, guns and tanks being filled above the compressor to help keep the moisture out.

Purge the system of moisture, using the screw valves on both sides of the compressor, for a couple of seconds every five minutes while in use.

Change out your small YH filter every twenty minutes and set the old one out to dry and use later.

Add a better filter if needed to be sure more moisture and any oil smell is removed from the system. Many of us use this Tuxing three media filter although, if you feel the need, you can change media types at any time.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32891898253.html

A smaller one will probly do for many.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000960926898.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2a034c4dL0nrJU.

Bleed the pressure before you turn the unit off and let it run a few seconds to get the better part of the moisture out of the system. I have found that I blow less burst discs if I bleed before shutting down so I do this religiously.

Let the coolant pump run for a few minutes after shutdown to cool things off.



Here is a video on how to fill a SCBA tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=157&v=_grx5p_R8D4&feature=emb_title


 
Goofed yesterday , forgot to turn the pump on . Ran it about 45 seconds before noticing the coolant lines were empty . 

Too late , with the dead head in it only generates 160 bar now . Ordered new rings for the high side from China so back to the hand pump for now . There's always the Aspen ready to step up when needed too .

My Yong Heng sits on a 15 gallon plastic barrel filled with 12 gallons of Volvo premix coolant . Lubricant : Royal Purple synfilm recip. 100 . Large 3 media air filter .

I've been wanting to add another switch to run the fan with the compressor motor off .




 
Goofed yesterday , forgot to turn the pump on . Ran it about 45 seconds before noticing the coolant lines were empty . 

Too late , with the dead head in it only generates 160 bar now . Ordered new rings for the high side from China so back to the hand pump for now . There's always the Aspen ready to step up when needed too .

My Yong Heng sits on a 15 gallon plastic barrel filled with 12 gallons of Volvo premix coolant . Lubricant : Royal Purple synfilm recip. 100 . Large 3 media air filter .

I've been wanting to add another switch to run the fan with the compressor motor off .




This is why I use a smaller reservoir. I use a tool box that holds about 2 gallons and I have the lines passing through holes drilled in the flange of the bottom box where the lid meets it. The return line just passes through the wall of the box so that I can see with a glance that water is flowing. It might also help in event of a pump failing mid run-you would see the flow stop. Many prefer to use a 5 gallon bucket or pairs of such and I'm sure that can work fine, as can running from a faucet. But I've found that the toolbox setup with either crushed ice or cubes allows me to top off a Great White tank from around 3000 to 4400 with usually 1 addition of ice and sometimes adding a second amount in the summer heat. It is easy enough to scoop some water out to add more ice but I added a petcock drain to the toolbox so I can drain water off as the ice melts and just add some more ice as needed. More recently I put a perforated barrier mid box so that the ice remains near the pump. That way return water empties into one end and must flow over the ice to reach the pump at the other end. I also added an external fan blowing across the heads. This setup has worked perfectly for a long time now-as set up it typically runs upper 40 range and doesn't exceed 50 if ice is maintained, even in 100 degree summer heat. As noted, use a good HPA compressor lube-I had Chemlube available that I still use. Hope you get the parts and get it running again.