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Yong Heng Gauge Question

I have a new YH with less than an hour on it and it's equipped with the auto shut off gauge. While filling a new FX rifle last night the YH gauge showed @ 250bar and shut down automatically. However the gun's bottle gauge showed much less. I turned the YH up to @300bar and the gun only showed 220bar. Which gauge would y'all think is faulty?
 
MOST of the gauges we have to deal with are imprecise, at best. Personally, I've never trusted auto-shutoff gauges either. When filling tanks I have 3 gauges to deal with (compressor, fill adapter, tank). I just use an average between all 3, close enough. I tend to trust the gauges on my guns for a fill reading but won't say that's scientific. As to which is faulty, your guess is as good as the rest of ours.
 
I'm not following you. The YH gauge is allowing more pressure in, or showing more than the FX gauge. But let's say it is an obstruction in either one. How in the world do you fix that?
Sorry, thought it was the other way around. Check others. As jps2486 (☝️ ) said, a glycerin filled gauge should be used on YH to damper vibration but that kinda negates the auto shutoff part. As a rule, I've always had replacement gauges on hand. They're inexpensive.
 
So, I've worked in a large industrial setting for over 30 years where gauges, plumbing, motors, blowers, compressors and more have been my career. However, high pressure has not been a part of my job outside of hydraulics on heavy machinery. As a matter of fact, around 5pm today out number 1 generator that spits out 2.2 megawatts, enough power to feed a small city, blew out a coolant line. What I'm trying to get to is, I'm pretty mechanical so I completely understand good gauges vs bad, as well as know why and where to use glycerin filled gauges. The thing that I DO NOT know, if I were to drop the flaky auto shut off gauge, what thread standard those YH use. I'm sure it's not ¼" NTP threads. Anybody know the thread size on these gauges? Are they 10mm x 1, straight no taper? I'd be happy tossing a decent glycerin filled gauge on and shutting the unit down by hand. Lastly, I've not looked at how the gauge is wired into the controls. I did open it up and wire in an hour meter and put it in the place where the temp gauge was supposed to sit. I was able to figure out that wiring but it was be so much simpler if someone else who's already been there and bypassed the auto shut off circuit could lend some knowledge.

Note the coolant blowing out of the line just beside the vertical blue air starter line. Good thing we had 13 other gens to pick up the slack. 🤣

PXL_20230525_204942752.jpg
 
I did not like having to put my face over the yong heng gauge just to be able to see that shaking mess so I did this:

https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/yong-heng-remote-mount-gauge.1287400/#post-1468672

much easier now
Nice and you think a lot like me it appears. I chunked the factory temp gauge and bought a dual gauge and made a bezel plate that hang from the side of my compressor cart. One temp probe goes into the head and the other into the cooling water. Did you have a hydraulics shop build your line and do you recall the gauge thread size on the YH? BSP, 10MMX1, ETC?
 
Yes to the hydraulic shop making my hoses also — no need for microbore hoses all the time.
Awesome info. I'll get a local shop to make me a 10mmx1 male to ¼"NTP and use a decent gauge mounted on the side of my cart in a similar fashion as yours.
Can you see the dual gauge, red for the head temp and blue for the water?

PXL_20230526_021024960.jpg
 
I do see the gauge but I don’t get too worked up over the temps. I see you’ve got some sort of cooling radiator plumbed in. Be sure to keep the water flowing and you’ll be fine.

I’ve run my YH for 90 minutes straight, filling 60 minute scba tanks from empty. The YH finds a happy temp and just chugs along.

I ended up using a steel, zinc plated adapter to change the threads from 10mm x 1.0 to 1/8th npt — had a handful of hoses made with 1/8th npt male on 1 end and 1/4 npt male on the other. Easy enough to get high pressure fittings in those threads in the USA. Don’t need to play with additional seals, just seal the threads properly.
 
I do see the gauge but I don’t get too worked up over the temps. I see you’ve got some sort of cooling radiator plumbed in. Be sure to keep the water flowing and you’ll be fine.

I’ve run my YH for 90 minutes straight, filling 60 minute scba tanks from empty. The YH finds a happy temp and just chugs along.

I ended up using a steel, zinc plated adapter to change the threads from 10mm x 1.0 to 1/8th npt — had a handful of hoses made with 1/8th npt male on 1 end and 1/4 npt male on the other. Easy enough to get high pressure fittings in those threads in the USA. Don’t need to play with additional seals, just seal the threads properly.
I think I'm going to go your route. YH has responded to my message and would probably send me a new auto shut off, but if the first one didn't even last an hour, not much chance the replacement would last any length of time. I believe I'll buy a 1-1/2" panel mount and have a hose made up so I can put the pressure gauge on the same panel as my temp gauges and the fill hose hanger.