I have a compressor and before I changed my oil it used to fill my pcp all the way up to 4500 psi and after I made the oil change it takes forever to fill and it fills only to 4000 psi if I’m lucky
Yong heng compressor not filling
- Thread starter Dcm2010
- Start date
I just read the thread about the reset button. I’ve got the cover off now and have the reset hanging for now.
Someone else wrote about having fill issues . First stage air line is hot to the touch , the other two lines are cool. They got hot when I ran it the first two or three times.
Is the capacitor setting under the windings? I see there is a threaded rod coming out of one end but is not attached to anything, just kinda floating around in the bottom housing.
Thanks for the suggestions and help.
Someone else wrote about having fill issues . First stage air line is hot to the touch , the other two lines are cool. They got hot when I ran it the first two or three times.
Is the capacitor setting under the windings? I see there is a threaded rod coming out of one end but is not attached to anything, just kinda floating around in the bottom housing.
Thanks for the suggestions and help.
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I think the air line heat is normal. Thats the cap, theres no room in the case to screw it on top of motor and glue wont stick to the plastic. Can wrap it in paper tape and glue it or wedge something in that wont melt. If it doesnt move or rattle then id just leave it alone.
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No , it moves! I had some fiberglass insulation and stuffed it in on both ends. It won’t move now!
I also wrapped electrical tape around the reset body. I may try it back it place just to see if it happens again. I’ll move it totally if it does. Seen a link to a more reliable reset button on here. I’ve got it save in my cart on Amazon just in case.
Thanks again!
Grady
I also wrapped electrical tape around the reset body. I may try it back it place just to see if it happens again. I’ll move it totally if it does. Seen a link to a more reliable reset button on here. I’ve got it save in my cart on Amazon just in case.
Thanks again!
Grady
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Ordering anything from Yong heng is out of the question for now. Parts are reasonable enough but for any part they want $80.00 shipping.
Yes the heat is normal. The problem is only one of the three lines gets hot now. The other two remain cool , not even warm .
Yes the heat is normal. The problem is only one of the three lines gets hot now. The other two remain cool , not even warm .
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Oil leaking out, sounds like used compressor, mine shipped empty. All those SS airlines will fry you when working right, lol, arm burns noted as a "badge of honor" from users.
You should have gotten a bag of spares which includes the o rings for the check valves. The small line on top, the HP out line, leads to the check valve that was leaking on mine, see the exploded view.
Be very careful not to cross thread any of the fittings and recheck all with pump off..if you still have an air bottle with pressure attached for leak down checks.
Parts could get interesting in the next year from China, no?
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I’ve taken all three lines off , double checking for any debris.
Mine has a one way check valve in the very top , the HP side. I also too the fill tube off of the HP block, there in not a one way check valve there.
Took the cover off, removed the reset switch from the back housing. Held it in my hand and ran the compressor while airing up my tank. It ran without cutting off. Let the reset dangle and it shut down. Definitely the reset making it stop. So that will get replaced with the one from Amazon.
All three lines are hot now! The bottom one from the low pressure side is the hottest, the others are hot but not like the bottom one.
It‘s filling my tank up but very slow.
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Heat! I use old cheap window box fan from back to front, just like the internal fan, and several cool down stops for that hot running motor. I have it on a 30 amp 120 vac circuit for no voltage sag. What users do with oil and water cooling is all over the map, LOL. I'm cursed with hot garage in the south. Enjoy..ohh yeah, the last 1000 to 500 psi can be slower but I'm just a 3k SCUBA tank guy.
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I got the compressor to stop shutting itself down by the advice found here. It still is having problems though. Initially it got to 4100psi and would not fill my tank past that. Yesterday it got to 3700 ish and under load I watched the compressor gage fall from 3700 down to 3500 psi.
Even though I bought this from VEVOR , customer service is Yong Heng in China. I updated them with yesterday’s information.
They messaged me saying they are trying to work out a solution and I’d hear back in 48 hours.
I gave them the solution! Replace it with a NEW unit or refund the money I paid for the paperweight that I currently have.
I did give them several reasons why I believe this compressor was a return and somehow got shipped out to me.
I will give an update when I hear back from them.
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Would you agree that, given the symptom that pressure is dropping without the compressor running, that piston rings & associated components cannot be the problem? The piston rings, pistons, etc., are not resposible for holding outlet pressure. Ditto the low-pressure check valves.
IMO, if high pressure air is leaking, it has to be in, or after the high pressure outlet check valve, correct?
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Apologies if I missed the post that shows the connecting rod's dipper/splash rod. I've had (5) Yong Hengs and clones, and one of the main reasons for giving up on them was the frequency of failures, particularly the dipper/splash rod breaking off. I have ordered connecting rods from a number of sources, some of which seemed to be even poorer quality.
In my experience, the bell crank can often be cleaned up and pressed back into service. When inspecting the new connecting rod, you may wish to consider the oil hole size and whether it is a clear of flashings as desireable.
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Agreed about the pressure leaking but OP also said he can't fill past 4K. The leak is probably check valve, dowty seal, foster o-ring, etc. failure. The 4K max is probably internal.
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Can you include picture of your oil level window? Oil should NOT be above top of red dot! It's hard to know exactly what's wrong as your description lacks much detail. Has its behavior changed in any other way? Sound the same? Smell the same? Have you checked the bonded washer (Dowty seal) on top of HP cylinder, tightened or checked ALL fittings & screws, foster fitting o-rings, etc.?
Which gauge is indicating drop in pressure? Compressor gauge? You're not very SPECIFIC when explaining stuff. Makes helping more difficult.
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