Yong Heng after piston replacement

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lol
bigHUN said:
:) I am a large volume shooter and topping up 3 of these 14L bottles at a time of a work party.
The vibration meter battery died at about 68 hrs and occasionally coming up with some numbers ups and down, and can't care replacing it.
What is a total time on the compressor I don't know anymore, it works, and whenever the fill start slowing down I just replace the pistons right away and that is about ones a year at least. But I have four BNIB kits in my drawers for spares.
The last oil change I did last summer.
But I am watching the Temps very closely.
The Temp is a piston rings killer.

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I read 3 -14L tanks . I thought, what tank is 14L 😂
 
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BigHUN, I see the bottle of Super Lube o-ring goo there, good stuff, I shoot it into the piston housing of my Vevor box every half-hour of run time, it's kept it from dying I think. I use a syringe with a large bore needle with the sharp ground off.

But you missed the point of my previous comment. Mobil 1 turbo (kompressor) oil is not air compressor oil, nor should automotive motor oil ever be used in a high pressure system. The standard here is ISO 46 type air compressor oils, preferably something with a high pressure lubricant additive. Nor should you run a detergent oil, which won't allow the water and sludge to separate in the oil and drain to the sump.

Read up on high pressure compressor oils and the ISO 46 standard that Yong Heng recommends, because Mobil 1 isn't one of them. I think you're getting excessive wear and perhaps even detonation in the piston, that's why they're going out. You'd be much better off running something like Amsoil compressor oil, which has no detergent, has high pressure lubricant added, and a much higher flashpoint than Mobil 1.
 
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I have tried couple oils in the past. This Mobil one is a twin turbo rated = high RPM high Temp.
I am using it second year.
The oil - any oil, shall lube the 1st stage piston cast iron rings, but shall never reach to second stage high pressure piston composite rings. If does, there will be carbon build up on that piston and eventually degrade the composite ring life.
 
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bigHUN said:
I have tried couple oils in the past. This Mobil one is a twin turbo rated = high RPM high Temp.
I am using it second year.
The oil - any oil, shall lube the 1st stage piston cast iron rings, but shall never reach to second stage high pressure piston composite rings. If does, there will be carbon build up on that piston and eventually degrade the composite ring life.
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Detergent motor oil is inappropriate for any air compressor system. That's why you keep having to replace pistons. You need to run an ISO 46 approved compressor oil, that's not me saying that, that's every air compressor manufacturer in the world saying that, including Yong Heng.
 
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BSJ said:
I'm pretty sure Yong Heng stopped using ISO 46 oil, years ago. It stinks and builds up carbon.
SECO 500 is a better option.
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You appear to say that ISO 46 is a brand of oil? No, ISO 46 refers to the global engineering standard for oil quality recommended by ALL air compressor manufacturers, including Yong Heng.
 
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Air King said:
You appear to say that ISO 46 is a brand of oil? No, ISO 46 refers to the global engineering standard for oil quality recommended by ALL air compressor manufacturers, including Yong Heng.
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Yong Heng used to call for using AW ISO 46 Hydraulic oil. They don't anymore.

If you are saying any ISO 46 oil is suitable, you are being too vague.
 
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BSJ said:
Yong Heng used to call for using AW ISO 46 Hydraulic oil. They don't anymore.

If you are saying any ISO 46 oil is suitable, you are being too vague.
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No, I'm not being too vague, I've said here repeatedly that ISO 46 is the correct oil type, because that's in fact the correct type. And nowhere does Yong Heng say that detergent motor oil is the correct oil, nor do they specify Seco 500. There's nothing vague in any of that.
 
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This has always been been a contentious subject. Some claim great luck with any compressor oil, or Husky synthetic compressor oil. I ran Royal Purple in my YongHeng, as recommended at first, but it literally stunk, built carbon on the HP piston and was obviously not up to the task. I’ve since run proper high pressure breathing air compressor oil, in both my YongHeng and my big compressor. The YongHeng no longer stinks up the air, stays cleaner and doesn’t build carbon. The oil is pricey, but goes a long way and gives some additional peace of mind. We ask a lot of these machines, and pay a lot for some of them, good oil is necessary insurance.
 
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bigHUN said:
:) I am a large volume shooter and topping up 3 of these 14L bottles at a time of a work party.
The vibration meter battery died at about 68 hrs and occasionally coming up with some numbers ups and down, and can't care replacing it.
What is a total time on the compressor I don't know anymore, it works, and whenever the fill start slowing down I just replace the pistons right away and that is about ones a year at least. But I have four BNIB kits in my drawers for spares.
The last oil change I did last summer.
But I am watching the Temps very closely.
The Temp is a piston rings killer.

is this the big YH compressor for scuba tanks? these are looking more and more favorable as it seems there's quite a bit of parts support online compared with other compressor companies.
Click to expand...
 
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I made another run with my YH with it's new pistons today. Second since the replacement. I messed up and did not add ice until the temperature was already over 60 C. But 4 frozen soda bottles of ice pretty much stopped it going up further. The bottle pressure was down to about 1500 psi and in about 30 minutes it was up to 290 bar and I decided that was good enough. I need to add the ice first thing next time but the compressor seems to be working well. I have not tried plugging the YH back into the power strip I used to use with it but after a couple more bottle fills I probably will. I know it used to work but I don't know how much "break in" of the new pistons is required. I may still need to add a 20A outlet for the YH.
 
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JimD said:
I made another run with my YH with it's new pistons today. Second since the replacement. I messed up and did not add ice until the temperature was already over 60 C. But 4 frozen soda bottles of ice pretty much stopped it going up further. The bottle pressure was down to about 1500 psi and in about 30 minutes it was up to 290 bar and I decided that was good enough. I need to add the ice first thing next time but the compressor seems to be working well. I have not tried plugging the YH back into the power strip I used to use with it but after a couple more bottle fills I probably will. I know it used to work but I don't know how much "break in" of the new pistons is required. I may still need to add a 20A outlet for the YH.
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High current and a lot power strips are not a good combination. If it is the heavy duty or outdoor, generally metal framed, you are fine.

The problem is at high current the contact resistance of the plugs becomes a source of heat. The better strips have a larger contact surface and better material so have to dissipate less heat due to lower contact resistance.

I clean the plug(s) if I unplug any of my high current hardware. I learned that in an exciting manner 😬
 
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Ratzy said:
High current and a lot power strips are not a good combination. If it is the heavy duty or outdoor, generally metal framed, you are fine.

The problem is at high current the contact resistance of the plugs becomes a source of heat. The better strips have a larger contact surface and better material so have to dissipate less heat due to lower contact resistance.

I clean the plug(s) if I unplug any of my high current hardware. I learned that in an exciting manner 😬
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Seems a dedicated breaker ,wire (12g), plug is best . Read so much on it and guys power issues on old or weak supply .
 
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