Wldcat II Cocking Lever Pin Fell Out

[RM100GUY]

My .25 Wildcat fixed with red locktite has at least 5000 pellets through it, I don't give it a second thought, I put my eyes on it from time to time, IF it comes loose again I may take the pin and VERY carefully use a hardened smooth jaw vice to slightly flatten the bottom end of the pin maybe .050",, won't need much swell maybe .001" less is more, and just carefully tap in, or I will consider, I used to race slot cars which required a lot of precision soldering with a small soldering iron, I think the clevis and pin are carbon steel, a little flux and a dab of silver solder on the bottom hole will work, dosn't take much heat and would be easy to remove. This method was used to solder pinion gears to the motor shafts, these motors were about the size of your thumb nail, they produced 1/4hp at 150,000 rpm,s never had a problem if done properly. Getting the iron and flux and solder together would be the issue for a little job, this would be a nice clean reversible fix, if both parts are carbon steel. 

 

[Jim81]

The reason for the overt criticism on the scotch tape is because I called FX yesterday and the person who answered also recommended the scotch tape. Said they would get back to me today. No contact from them.

I started researching what next. No matter what you look at , BSA, Daystate, Weirich (sp), and so on they all start to sound about the same and just as trouble prone as what I already have. The Daystate owners forum have some pretty critical thinks to say about them. Here I thought they were almost bullet proof for the price they ask for them. 5 year transferable warranty is nice though.