Wildcat MKIII Sniper .25 - Performance & Accuracy (post-mods)

Hey Joe, on my gen 1 WC the cocking lever will move forward from the full "open" position if the rifle is tilted forward/down. The probe is then partially blocking the clip from being inserted. Has FX incorporated something into the MK3 to hold the cocking lever fully open? (Maybe they did this on the MK2 as well)

Also, absolutely believe your shot groups because I know what my MK1 can do - but the shooter (me) is not always up to it. Lol
 
Hey Joe, on my gen 1 WC the cocking lever will move forward from the full "open" position if the rifle is tilted forward/down. The probe is then partially blocking the clip from being inserted. Has FX incorporated something into the MK3 to hold the cocking lever fully open? (Maybe they did this on the MK2 as well)

Also, absolutely believe your shot groups because I know what my MK1 can do - but the shooter (me) is not always up to it. Lol

Rodeo, it’s funny you bring this up. A member on here came up with a sweet idea that he did on his WC to prevent that from happening, and I’m taking it another step to correct that situation. I’ll post up what I came up with in pics on another tread. 

Cant remember the members name, as it’s been awhile. He was selling his gun on the classifieds and I saw a mod to his gun that caught my eye when he posted pics. I sent him a pm and he explained the mods purpose. Genius idea.
 
JKool,

Can you recommend a suppressor of the same diameter, 20mm if I am correct, as the shroud for the "Compact" version, that will accommodate the added "Plenum" length, which I believe looks the same as the Dreamline plenum in your photos.

I just need some advice on getting the 500mm or 700mm MKIII...I have the DL classic in .25 600mm, but, like the shorter WKIII option.

Your setup is Awesome I must say. Carry on my friend.



Patrick
 
Hey Joe, on my gen 1 WC the cocking lever will move forward from the full "open" position if the rifle is tilted forward/down. The probe is then partially blocking the clip from being inserted. Has FX incorporated something into the MK3 to hold the cocking lever fully open? (Maybe they did this on the MK2 as well)

Also, absolutely believe your shot groups because I know what my MK1 can do - but the shooter (me) is not always up to it. Lol

Hey Joe, on my gen 1 WC the cocking lever will move forward from the full "open" position if the rifle is tilted forward/down. The probe is then partially blocking the clip from being inserted. Has FX incorporated something into the MK3 to hold the cocking lever fully open? (Maybe they did this on the MK2 as well)

Also, absolutely believe your shot groups because I know what my MK1 can do - but the shooter (me) is not always up to it. Lol

Rodeo, it’s funny you bring this up. A member on here came up with a sweet idea that he did on his WC to prevent that from happening, and I’m taking it another step to correct that situation. I’ll post up what I came up with in pics on another tread. 

Cant remember the members name, as it’s been awhile. He was selling his gun on the classifieds and I saw a mod to his gun that caught my eye when he posted pics. I sent him a pm and he explained the mods purpose. Genius idea.


My Wildcat MKII and DreamPup occasionally does this, but it is a rare occurrence. Once I got a little happy with my Ballistol oil dropper lubricating some of the moving parts on my airguns and that’s when I noticed the cocking lever doing what you describe. Since reading your question/post I pointed my Wildcats down and cocked them, just to see if they were doing it, and they weren’t. So it is not a problem for me, the easiest fix (hack) for that would be to just hold your Wildcat level or slightly upward when loading a magazine. Gravity... lol.



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One modification I have done with my Wildcat MKII is epoxy two rare earth magnets to the inward side of the cocking lever. I did this years ago because it would do the reverse of what your cocking lever is doing. When I would close the cocking lever it would swing open. So I fixed (hack) that with the magnets, and now it has a satisfying “SNAP” when I close it and stays there like if it was designed that way from the factory.



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JCool,

Can you recommend a suppressor of the same diameter, 20mm if I am correct, as the shroud for the "Compact" version, that will accommodate the added "Plenum" length, which I believe looks the same as the Dreamline plenum in your photos.

I just need some advice on getting the 500mm or 700mm MKIII...I have the DL classic in .25 600mm, but, like the shorter WKIII option.

Your setup is Awesome I must say. Carry on my friend.



Patrick


Huggett moderators are on the expensive side but...



I would recommend the old school “Huggett standard”. I believe it maybe called the “Huggett Snipe” now a days. That is what I’ve had on my FX Streamline .22 since 2016. It is super quiet! I tried it out on the MKIII so you could see (see picture).. The diameter is a few millimeters thinner then the FX DonnyFL moderator.



1592456148_19061659605eeaf3d461a224.89336372.jpeg



There is also the “Huggett Belita” which is shorter but has the same diameter width as the “Huggett Snipe“.



A third option would be the “Huggett FX Wildcat Dedicated Shroud” which may be the coolest option. It replaces the entire WC shroud with a new shroud with a built in Huggett moderating system. You would have to choose the correct length on purchase for the 500mm barrel compact though it is probably the same width as the original WC MKIII shroud so, there’s 3 options...



Oh, and I almost forgot about the “DonnyFL Tanto” is a narrow and compact moderator that is also surprisingly effective in sound moderation.



Links:



https://utahairguns.com/huggett-snipe-standard-moderator/



https://utahairguns.com/huggett-belita-moderator/



https://utahairguns.com/huggett-fx-wildcat-dedicated-shroud/



https://utahairguns.com/donnyfl-tanto-moderator/












 
Correct me if i’m wrong but isn’t that shroud only go up to 600mm where the mk3 in sniper is 700?




Your probably right, but UA does have the option for the 500mm barreled compact. Which is what the question was about. These Huggett shrouds were released before FX began putting 700mm STX barrels on Wildcat MKII’s.



JCool,

Can you recommend a suppressor of the same diameter, 20mm if I am correct, as the shroud for the "Compact" version, that will accommodate the added "Plenum" length, which I believe looks the same as the Dreamline plenum in your photos.

I just need some advice on getting the 500mm or 700mm MKIII...I have the DL classic in .25 600mm, but, like the shorter WKIII option.

Your setup is Awesome I must say. Carry on my friend.



Patrick





 
Hi Joekool,

i have decided to,start testing with the WC MK3 before I have a ( well fitting ) plenum extension . The reason for this is that I found a youtube cideo of Matt Dubber in which he explains about the development of slugs and slugliners from him in cooperation with FX. He advises to have the reg up to 150-160 bar in case one shoots slugs as this high reg setting avoids air turbulence behind the slug during its travel through the barrel. He says a higher reg setting avoids the air still making turbulence when the slug leaves the barrel. The quick opening and shutting of the valve due to high reg setting is essential for small groups he states. Now I want to ask you about this theory .

i would think that plenum extensions would make lower reg settings possible what is nice for more economical air usage and more quite functioning of the system but.... does this not work counterproductive in terms of the theory of preferred high reg settings from Matt ?

the shorter the barrel the more critical is this avoiding of air turbulence behind the slug I would think. As witg ahorter barrel you have kess time to open and close the valve before the slug leaves the barrel.

I would normally have started testing with a reg aetting of 120 but I have decided to bring Matt’s theory to the test and start with reg on 145. No plenum extension . So standard WC MK3. In .22. 
first shots were low 590 f/sec. In position 7 on the powerwheel . I turned the spring anti clockwise till and ended up with 950 m/sec and then turned it back to 930. I found that in case I would even more turn it anti clockwise the cocking handle would get stuck. If I give the spring toomuch tension the gun would not load a slug anymore nor cock ...It feels if somethng is going wrong but when you turn thenpower wheel down to 5 for example everythings works smooth again. Can you please comment / give tips based on your rich experience . For me this is my first FX and I want to learn as you might have experiences already. Mainly the high reg setting theory for best groups ( no air turbulence behind slugs when leaving barrel) and the plenum extension advantage / disadvantage when shooting slugs inthis context of Matt’s recommendations 

below you find the lonkmto the Matt Dubber video I relate to .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLK5j2urOJ0&feature=share



thanks in advance 

yalel
 
Hi Joekool,

i have decided to,start testing with the WC MK3 before I have a ( well fitting ) plenum extension . The reason for this is that I found a youtube cideo of Matt Dubber in which he explains about the development of slugs and slugliners from him in cooperation with FX. He advises to have the reg up to 150-160 bar in case one shoots slugs as this high reg setting avoids air turbulence behind the slug during its travel through the barrel. He says a higher reg setting avoids the air still making turbulence when the slug leaves the barrel. The quick opening and shutting of the valve due to high reg setting is essential for small groups he states. Now I want to ask you about this theory .

i would think that plenum extensions would make lower reg settings possible what is nice for more economical air usage and more quite functioning of the system but.... does this not work counterproductive in terms of the theory of preferred high reg settings from Matt ?

the shorter the barrel the more critical is this avoiding of air turbulence behind the slug I would think. As witg ahorter barrel you have kess time to open and close the valve before the slug leaves the barrel.

I would normally have started testing with a reg aetting of 120 but I have decided to bring Matt’s theory to the test and start with reg on 145. No plenum extension . So standard WC MK3. In .22. 
first shots were low 590 f/sec. In position 7 on the powerwheel . I turned the spring anti clockwise till and ended up with 950 m/sec and then turned it back to 930. I found that in case I would even more turn it anti clockwise the cocking handle would get stuck. If I give the spring toomuch tension the gun would not load a slug anymore nor cock ...It feels if somethng is going wrong but when you turn thenpower wheel down to 5 for example everythings works smooth again. Can you please comment / give tips based on your rich experience . For me this is my first FX and I want to learn as you might have experiences already. Mainly the high reg setting theory for best groups ( no air turbulence behind slugs when leaving barrel) and the plenum extension advantage / disadvantage when shooting slugs inthis context of Matt’s recommendations 

below you find the lonkmto the Matt Dubber video I relate to .















https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLK5j2urOJ0&feature=share

















thanks in advance 

yalel




I have seen Matt’s video/movie 20,000 times (it seems, Youtube algorithms!). I feel and know he is absolutely right in everything he says about getting the best from a slug liner vs slugs. He helped develop them, so he’s undeniably one of the most knowledgeable on FX slug liner tuning. I don’t even pretend to know as much as he does about airgun marksmanship.



Fusing some of what he states and what I have experienced. This is what I will say, in layman terms and its simple.


- A high regulator pressure will give you similar energy and accuracy when tuned or balanced well with your hammer spring tension. But, the airguns block and firing valve will be under higher stress do to the high regulator pressure and how much harder the hammer will have to strike the valve (a higher regulator pressure, the valve is harder to open). There is always a limit (a reg. pressure limit and a HST limit).



- Added plenum space and/or air volume allows you to flow even more air with a lower regulator pressure producing similar energy as a higher regulator pressure would produce. But, with less stress on your airguns block and firing valve due to it not being necessary to have as much hammer spring tension to open the firing valve (it would be under less pressure) More plenum space equates to = with less pressure , you can get more energy. Larger plenum volume can maintain an airguns docile feeling shot cycle but give an very impressive energy increase. Feels smooth and yields less gun movement upon a shot. Better efficiency due to a lower operating pressure.



Pros / Cons / Things I find true



-Large air volume (more plenum space), less regulator pressure, and a balanced HST can equal more energy with good accuracy.



-Higher regulator pressure and a balanced HST can equal more energy with good accuracy.



- Low reg. pressure & larger plenum, shoots more gently aka smoother than High regulator pressure with a small amount of plenum space.



- Accuracy comes from balance, balance, did I mention balance. You need just the right regulator pressure vs just the right amount of hammer strike to open your firing valve for just the right amount of time. Per your barrel length to give your projectile the desired or proper speed to leave the barrel with no wasted air/turbulence. All this will equal harmony, efficiency, good energy, And if you’re lucky good accuracy.



-Too fast isn’t good, but you need to determine what is too fast by testing, tuning, shooting your own airgun.



-High or Low regulator pressure it still boils down to: balance + harmony = accuracy 



-Power tuned or tuned down it still boils down to: balance + harmony = accuracy 



-Barrel length is a big factor.. Short barrels will only produce so much energy before they hit that brick wall of turbulent air when powered too high. Throwing most hopes of any kind of precision off. (Balance!)



-Longer barrels are more forgiving, have more runway to build up projectile speed, could produce more power at the same regulator pressure as shorter barrels, but will suffer the same issues as a shorter barrel if there is improper what??? “Balance!”


-5 bar just 5 bar can make a huge difference in group size. When tuning try adjusting regulator pressure up or down 5 bar and test shoot? I have seen a 5 bar regulator adjustment shrink group size numerous times!



My real world example:



My FX Crown .25, Huma regulator @ 175 bar, 67-68 fpe, additional hammer weight (allows me to open the valve at that high reg. pressure), 600mm STX Superior Liner, accurate as hell! (Balanced)

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My FX Wildcat MKIII .25, AMP regulator @ 135 bar, 67-68 fpe, stacked plenums & larger transfer port, 700mm STX Superior Liner, accurate as hell! (Balanced)

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Two differently tuned guns, but both balanced in their individual tunes... Both extremely accurate! Making sense??



-A person can tune their gun up or down and still get accuracy. If there is balance.



-IMO larger plenums are the way to go (easy & efficient power gains and less mechanical & physical stress on the airgun), but if the gun doesn’t give the option of a larger plenum your only option to raise power is to raise reg. pressure and HST, or make modifications.


- Balance... No matter what regulator pressure.



-Never tune for absolute power! (As much possible energy you can absolutely, positively get from the darn thing!) In sacrifice of good efficiency or decent shot count. That’s just a bad tune in my book. There is a limit, going beyond that limit is just a badly tuned airgun.



-Well designed heavier projectiles can handle higher velocities pretty well. It’s the lighter weight projectiles that get unstable at higher speeds. They just don’t have enough a$$ to buck the oncoming wind turbulence. ( JSB .177 cal 10.34, JSB .22 cal 18.13, JSB .25 cal 33.95 love the 900’s from my FX STX, Slug & Superior Liners) But... My airgun’s tunes are well balanced.



-Better to shoot the gun as is then to tinker and muck it up if you don’t fully understand what you are doing. Or let a professional tune it. There is nothing wrong with leaving the airgun well alone and just shooting it the way it comes and using projectiles it was designed to shoot from the factory. I power up my FX PCP’s to achieve things I want the gun to do. Like having a flatter trajectory, the ability to shoot slugs or heavier pellets at velocities that I know they perform well at “FOR ME”, to increase my airgun’s effective range, and the SMACK factor! (Knocking the living hell out of whatever animal I am putting down... Accurately & Humanely.)


These are a few things I have learned through my personal experiences in air-gunning, tinkering, tuning, modifying, testing, and hunting. If they are not true for you then that is okay, just say to yourself, “That’s Bull S##t!” and keep enjoying your life and “use your airguns the way you want to”. No need to argue with me, lol.





JoeKool 






 
You cannot believe how much I appreciate ( and I an sure many others) with your postings and in this case your reply to my questions and comments to my findings as a newbie. Thanks a lot again Joekool.
i have good understandng now ( how could I ha NOT after reading your post) that balance is super important. Regulator, springtension and valve have to operate in harmony. Will get there .... Matt was next to harmony hammering on the fact that air turbulence behind the slug at the moment that the slug leaves the barrel is killing for precision ..This made him Tuning the balance ( harmony ) with higher reg setting. ( shorter moment of valve opening and closing makes it less likely that air turbulence occurs ) The shorter the barrel the more critical of course. Matt declares that he tunes his rifles / recommends with 150-155 bar reg setting in order avoid air turbulence behind the slug at the moment of leaving the barrel. Did you ever experience this turbulence precision disturbence in your tuning practice with relativ low reg pressures ? This higher reg pressure recommendation of Matt is making me reluctant to built in a plenum extension that would definately make me set my regpressure 10-20 bar lower hence increasing the turbulence risks in my 500 mm barrel. ( from 145 now to let say 130 bar with bigger plenum providing same slug speed ) Do I interprate things right here?


one small other issue...😉

With my Edgun I had to clean the barrel on a regular basis epsecially when the barrel was new. ( LW) or when changing ammunition in order to stay accurate. Matt states that FX barrels hardly need any cleaning at all. What is your experience here ? ( I learnt to always clean a barrel when buying a new PCP anyway) .

last remark :
I wonder Joekool why there is no handbook for airgunners that would bring together know how of people like Matt, Ernest , yourself ....With your writing skills it could be a real winner don’t you think so ? Title suggestion : “Shooting In Balance“






 
You cannot believe how much I appreciate ( and I an sure many others) with your postings and in this case your reply to my questions and comments to my findings as a newbie. Thanks a lot again Joekool.
i have good understandng now ( how could I ha NOT after reading your post) that balance is super important. Regulator, springtension and valve have to operate in harmony. Will get there .... Matt was next to harmony hammering on the fact that air turbulence behind the slug at the moment that the slug leaves the barrel is killing for precision ..This made him Tuning the balance ( harmony ) with higher reg setting. ( shorter moment of valve opening and closing makes it less likely that air turbulence occurs ) The shorter the barrel the more critical of course. Matt declares that he tunes his rifles / recommends with 150-155 bar reg setting in order avoid air turbulence behind the slug at the moment of leaving the barrel. Did you ever experience this turbulence precision disturbence in your tuning practice with relativ low reg pressures ? This higher reg pressure recommendation of Matt is making me reluctant to built in a plenum extension that would definately make me set my regpressure 10-20 bar lower hence increasing the turbulence risks in my 500 mm barrel. ( from 145 now to let say 130 bar with bigger plenum providing same slug speed ) Do I interprate things right here?


one small other issue...
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With my Edgun I had to clean the barrel on a regular basis epsecially when the barrel was new. ( LW) or when changing ammunition in order to stay accurate. Matt states that FX barrels hardly need any cleaning at all. What is your experience here ? ( I learnt to always clean a barrel when buying a new PCP anyway) .

last remark :
I wonder Joekool why there is no handbook for airgunners that would bring together know how of people like Matt, Ernest , yourself ....With your writing skills it could be a real winner don’t you think so ? Title suggestion : “Shooting In Balance“








Matt or Ernest, I’m not in their league... Those guys make a living and compete professionally with airguns. I am just your average “Joe”. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, have some tools, hunt, and like to tinker with my airguns (in a feeble attempt to improve them).



For me, barrel cleaning is done always before I put the first shots through a brand new airgun. After this, then I only clean the barrel if I notice (with no tuning changes) shot groups appearIng to open up (possible indication that it could be time to clean the barrel). As a troubleshooting or maintenance routine. I don’t count how many tins it takes, I just, from shooting and observing my groups have a gut feeling that maybe its time to clean the barrel. Each gun varies. My FX barrels don’t need cleaning often.



Seems like you are hung up on what regulator pressure you should set your gun to. IMO regulator pressure doesn’t matter. Your regulator can be at 120, 130, 140, 150, or 160 etc. The key is properly balancing whatever regulator pressure you have with the hammer spring tension. With respect to your barrel length, don’t set your expectations too high. Tune the gun where you’re not using too much hammer spring tension in relation to the regulator pressure and there will not be wasted turbulent air behind the projectile leaving the barrel. Do you have a chronograph? Test it out yourself? Balance, balance, balance. Regulator pressure vs HST. Too much HST for any regulator pressure creates more of an air blast then you need, thus bad turbulence behind the projectile. Very high regulator pressure setting may lead you to discover you don’t even have enough HST adjustment on the airgun to properly operate the airgun at that regulator pressure. Too low of either setting and your velocities will be too slow.



My final tip for you would be to know what your trying to accomplish, and be realistic about it. You’re WC MKIII compact will probably not be launching FX Hybrids at 1000+ fps.?? Okay lets say you want to shoot FX Hybrids from your WC MKIII Compact @ 900 fps. Well, out of the box from your MKIII they’re shooting @ 860 fps with a regulator pressure of 125 bar. Using your chronograph, adjust your regulator to 130 bar and take a few shots. Are you closer to 900 fps? If not try giving a quarter turn or two of hammer spring tension. Okay, let’s say your getting 880 fps average now, but you want to be at 900 fps. Well, make another small 5 bar adjustment (135 bar) and test that setting over the chronograph. Let’s say now your velocity is 895 fps.. Well then maybe add a half round of HST and BOOM! 900 fps, great you did it! Is it accurate though? You may find this is a great accurate tune, or the accuracy may suck. No one a can determine that for you, but you. Through trial and error you decide what tune your gun likes or performs best at. I can’t do that.


As a side note, Matt D. is talking about the FX Impact in his Slug liner video... Which overall concept of tuning is the same, but a total different airgun from your WC MKIII Compact. So, you absolutely shouldn’t expect the regulator pressure setting and whatever else to be the exact same settings for your totally different model airgun.


Trial, error, shooting over a chronograph, and at different ranged targets with various ammo is the only way you can know what settings or ammunition your gun’s tune performs well on.



Or, you could always leave it just like the manufacturers tuned it like lots of air-gunners do and enjoy the airgun for years and years!






Joe












 
Thanks Joe. I am not the type of guy to leave things from out of the box as they are.. I try to learn fast and get a grip on a new hobby and get a bit more “ playground ” to operate on and have fun . Today I have tuned my WC3 compact .22 in the way you taught me and have a nice approx. 10 f/sec decrease of speed in each step from 7 to 1 . This was not the case when I initially reached my required speed hence the spring was overtightened as you taught me . I turned it a few turns clockwise and although the max speed only “ suffered “ 6 ft/ sec all of a sudden the powerwheel,steps started to have effect as they should .ft/sec line up from 7 to 1 is now 935 - 925- 915- 895- 850- 813-770. Regulator on 145. 20.3 grain slug 
Consistent 3/4 inch groups on 47 yards ( length of my garden 🙂). Now I will,take it to longer ranges and see how the groups will be 

airconsumption under these 38.72 Fpe output is approx 3 bar per shot. This means I would get per fill from 230 ( max. Fill) - 150 bar ( reg setting) approximately 27 shots . As the compact happens to have a rather small tank i will have to accept this rather limited shotcount with these relatively high power output. I shoot mostly directly from a 3 liter bottle and for hunting 27 shots is enough being on the move. 
a friend of mine shoots the same gun with totally different settings and pellet getting at least double the amount of shots from 1 fill.

anyhow I hope I am on the right track with my learning curve and again I would be not this far if it was without you !
 
I know with pellets things would get a bit easier and more forgiving but that road I have been on for the past 10 years in .25 caliber . With a Kalibrgun Cricket, Vulcan MK4 and a Edgun Lelya. Now it is “slugtime” and it is there where I have to learn a lot. And from FX guns tuning of course... I am aware that I could easily have a 35% better shotcount when I make other decisions but I am determined now getting the best out of the chosen Nielsen slugs hence this “ slug dedicated “ WC rifle now. With the FX it is is easier to tune then with the other mentioned rifles. A very important factor for me is that the FX superior barrel is a more “ sure bet” on the barrel side of things in combination with slugs that takes out an other uncertainty out of the equation .
 
I know with pellets things would get a bit easier and more forgiving but that road I have been on for the past 10 years in .25 caliber . With a Kalibrgun Cricket, Vulcan MK4 and a Edgun Lelya. Now it is “slugtime” and it is there where I have to learn a lot. And from FX guns tuning of course... I am aware that I could easily have a 35% better shotcount when I make other decisions but I am determined now getting the best out of the chosen Nielsen slugs hence this “ slug dedicated “ WC rifle now. With the FX it is is easier to tune then with the other mentioned rifles. A very important factor for me is that the FX superior barrel is a more “ sure bet” on the barrel side of things in combination with slugs that takes out an other uncertainty out of the equation .


100% on the same page! Great choice going with the lighter NSA 20.3 grain slugs for the Compact MKIII .22 caliber. Sounds like a good match, bet they will do their job well!




 
Good morning Joe,

just a quicky..

my friend who also bought a WC3 tried to turn the pringtension in the correct wheel position ( triangle symbol at the bottom) but after sticking in the 1.5 mil allen wrench correctly he cannot turn it left or right. It is just fixed it seems. Can it be that there is some locktite or allike that has to be broken up or so.. ? Any suggestion ? ( maybe try with heated tip of allen wrench ..?)

thanks for any auggestion / explanation you , or anyone else reading this posting , might have 



have a nice day