So I’m unable to use the huma pellet/slug probe in my wildcat mk3, as it slightly protrudes meaning I can’t load the magazine
its about 1mm longer than the fx probe
any way around this? Or have I received a ‘faulty’ huma probe?
Tuning Wildcat mk3 huma probe problem
- Thread starter PkShooter
- Start date
So I’m unable to use the huma pellet/slug probe in my wildcat mk3, as it slightly protrudes meaning I can’t load the magazine
its about 1mm longer than the fx probe
any way around this? Or have I received a ‘faulty’ huma probe?
PkShooter,
You should be able to adjust the new probe back a mm by adjusting the cocking rod length. Mark the rod at the cocking block with the 2 grub screws so you can return it there once you have the probe adjusted. loosen the grub screws and see if you can rotate the rod, it's threaded into the "shoe" the probe pin is attached to. Mine had no Loctite and rotated freely. Make your adjustments and align the block to your mark on the rod and tighten the grubs. Repeat if necessary. It's easier to do it with the barrel out. If yours is Loctited you will pull the whole probe assembly out the back and make the adjustment. I believe the trigger group will need to come off to do this.
Patrick
You should be able to adjust the new probe back a mm by adjusting the cocking rod length. Mark the rod at the cocking block with the 2 grub screws so you can return it there once you have the probe adjusted. loosen the grub screws and see if you can rotate the rod, it's threaded into the "shoe" the probe pin is attached to. Mine had no Loctite and rotated freely. Make your adjustments and align the block to your mark on the rod and tighten the grubs. Repeat if necessary. It's easier to do it with the barrel out. If yours is Loctited you will pull the whole probe assembly out the back and make the adjustment. I believe the trigger group will need to come off to do this.
Patrick
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You will find that if pushed too far back on the probe the gun will not cock. This has been brought up to huma and the reply was that probe was truly meant for the maverick. If the gun won’t cock you’re going to have to mill off a some material from the front of that probe, and find the happy medium where it’ll allow a mag to be inserted along with being able to cock the gun.
While your at it change out those grub screws to socket head Torx so you can really cinch the cocking block down tight against that rod. M4 x 6 Torx socket head. Those grub screws against a rod that pulls back/shoves forward constantly will loosen every time. Do not put lock tite as you chance rounding off the allen socket on a grub screw, then now your fooc’d
While your at it change out those grub screws to socket head Torx so you can really cinch the cocking block down tight against that rod. M4 x 6 Torx socket head. Those grub screws against a rod that pulls back/shoves forward constantly will loosen every time. Do not put lock tite as you chance rounding off the allen socket on a grub screw, then now your fooc’d
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@Bigragu has a good point. Could cause a problem with cocking if it's beyond the maximum available adjustment.
I decided to verify with my WC MKIII just in case.
I did modify mine by cutting about 30% of the circumference of the probe out for a bit better flow.
Conclusion;
Disassembly and adjusting the cocking rod shoe on my Wildcat MKIII by 1mm, give or take, from my 14.17mm point of reference to 15.39, by 2 turns of the rod, still allowed me to cock the WC MKIII and shoot, no problem. I could feel that, as @Bigragu was stating, there could be a very limited amount of adjustment above 1mm. Give it a try and see how it works in your gun.
Augie, good call on the Torx replacement grub screws! Excellent idea. Have them on order.
Patrick
I decided to verify with my WC MKIII just in case.
I did modify mine by cutting about 30% of the circumference of the probe out for a bit better flow.
Conclusion;
Disassembly and adjusting the cocking rod shoe on my Wildcat MKIII by 1mm, give or take, from my 14.17mm point of reference to 15.39, by 2 turns of the rod, still allowed me to cock the WC MKIII and shoot, no problem. I could feel that, as @Bigragu was stating, there could be a very limited amount of adjustment above 1mm. Give it a try and see how it works in your gun.
Augie, good call on the Torx replacement grub screws! Excellent idea. Have them on order.
Patrick
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Question to bigragu and 2L8. Where are you able to source your M4 X 6 torx replacement grub screws (or any other similar screws). I much prefer torx screws to hex ones, but have difficulty finding them, especially in small, metric sizes.
Chris
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Just load the magazine whilst holding the lever under tension backwards. Once used to this and practised a bit you can do this easy way using one hand. HUMA engineers were very well aware of the issue with the wildcat but to keep the bigger flow hole in optimum position there was no way around making it 1 mm “too long” .
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Chris,
I will admit, what I should have said was, "I will be ordering them as soon as I find them". You are correct, they are proving to be most elusive. I thought it would be "a few clicks" and they would be on their way. Nope, unless you need 5 or 10 thousand of them from China. Maybe Augie can share his source?
Patrick
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Hey, all. Checked my notes on that and actually used M4 x 8. I believe M4 x 6 will work but my concern was bottoming out the socket head before getting it tight.
Some pics-
I converted both my wildcats to all stainless fasteners so stainless Torx is what I chose.
The fasteners most “messed with” in the wildcats(and possibly the Mavericks) are the clamps that cinch up on the air tube, so I also converted those to Torx. I had a socket head allen round out once and I considered myself lucky by being able to remove it, so lessons in life, the fasteners that get touched the most during service all get Torx.
You can find them on eBay, AllieExpress, but if you want to pick up other stainless fasteners in Torx socket head or just opt for better quality fasteners I go either to Belmetrics or ACCU fasteners out of the UK. I like ACCU the best as they have more specialized fasteners like dog tipped grub screws or grub screws with plastic tips if you’re cinching into something you don’t want to scratch.
As far as choosing 8mm vs 6mm length, I would measure your factory grub screw length and see what works best for your application
Some pics-
I converted both my wildcats to all stainless fasteners so stainless Torx is what I chose.
The fasteners most “messed with” in the wildcats(and possibly the Mavericks) are the clamps that cinch up on the air tube, so I also converted those to Torx. I had a socket head allen round out once and I considered myself lucky by being able to remove it, so lessons in life, the fasteners that get touched the most during service all get Torx.
You can find them on eBay, AllieExpress, but if you want to pick up other stainless fasteners in Torx socket head or just opt for better quality fasteners I go either to Belmetrics or ACCU fasteners out of the UK. I like ACCU the best as they have more specialized fasteners like dog tipped grub screws or grub screws with plastic tips if you’re cinching into something you don’t want to scratch.
As far as choosing 8mm vs 6mm length, I would measure your factory grub screw length and see what works best for your application
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Thanks for the answers Angie and Patrick. I’m going to look up ACCU and Belmetrics and see what I can order. I really love Torx heads and much prefer them to all the other types.
Chris
Chris
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For those interested, a Google search for ACCU turns up tons of irrelevant stuff like ACCU-weather, etc. The website is ACCU.co.uk
Chris
Chris
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The only suck thing is the overseas shipping costs from ACCU. Usually if I order from them I try and pick up fasteners for other guns or stuff I need for around the house so I’m ordering a large amount.
speaking from experience when buying Torx, they make a shallow socket head version. Stay clear of those(unless your application requires a shallow socket head)as you really want more of the Torx bit inside the well of the socket.
another perfect application for a Torx head is the clamp bolt on the K&L pellet probe holder on the impacts, the scope rail and barrel clamp bolts on the LCS SK19. That scope rail on my LCS had the factory allen socket screws on tight, as they should be, but I was able to pop the scope rail off of its track with a simple palm hit. After converting to Torx and really cinching down on it that rail won’t budge
speaking from experience when buying Torx, they make a shallow socket head version. Stay clear of those(unless your application requires a shallow socket head)as you really want more of the Torx bit inside the well of the socket.
another perfect application for a Torx head is the clamp bolt on the K&L pellet probe holder on the impacts, the scope rail and barrel clamp bolts on the LCS SK19. That scope rail on my LCS had the factory allen socket screws on tight, as they should be, but I was able to pop the scope rail off of its track with a simple palm hit. After converting to Torx and really cinching down on it that rail won’t budge
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Ok so I tried the above stated method again to remove the protruding probe, but didn’t work
in my wc
theres something I can’t find nor is it clearly shown in Ernest’ videos. When reassembling the sear, where does the hammer have to be placed? On which part of the hammer does the pin sit which holds the sear?
also, nowhere can I find when to actually fit the middle pin. When I reassemble, it just falls out. Any ideas please guys?
theres something I can’t find nor is it clearly shown in Ernest’ videos. When reassembling the sear, where does the hammer have to be placed? On which part of the hammer does the pin sit which holds the sear?
also, nowhere can I find when to actually fit the middle pin. When I reassemble, it just falls out. Any ideas please guys?
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Swipe a small coat of vibra tite on the tail end of the pin, which is the last end of the pin that pushes in with your thumb. Vibra tite will hold it in place till everything else is put together. Make sure and remove all lubes on that pin first before applying vibra tite and let the vibra tite first dry up before assembly. Usually 10 minutes
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