FX Wildcat mk3 bt pelletprobe alignment

Hi!
My pelletprobe alignment seem to be wrong.. i bought the gun used last year So i dont know so much about it.
Anyway the 2 screws on the cockingrod came loose again.. i know i should Loctite them but i forgot to do that last time it happened,so i youtube the problem and watched a couple videos and found how to set the alignment but something seems wrong, dont know if the problem existed before. I set the probe to the front of the hole.
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This is how it looks when i remove the probe and pulled it out, its the same on the pellet side. So my question is how can i fix this?
//Daniel
 
I'm not 100% sure but I think this is what you should try:

Remove the cocking rod by first dismantling the trigger base, trigger sear, trigger wheel (the packman) by removing the pins and unscrewing the sear base from the packman. Remove the hammer, and finally, you can free your cocking rod.

Loctite the cocking rod with the pellet probe carrier. Make sure it dries before lining up the pinhole in the cocking rod with the pin probe screw hole on the block (where you insert the screw that locks the pin probe to the pellet probe carrier). Clam down the rod to the slide mount's two tiny screws, use loctite to secure the screws. Reinstall the pellet probe. When screwing the pin probe screw, make sure that it can be done smoothly; it shows that everything is algined properly.

It should securely lock down everything.

Again, this is my take. I would look into what the experts here advise first.

PS.

Inspect the pin probe screw and the pellet carrier, and make sure that the pin probe screw is not broken and nothing is stuck in the pellet carrier. If that happens. You'll need to buy a new pin probe screw and possibly the pellet carrier.
 
I just went through this two weeks ago with my Maverick. The above posted video is the easiest way to check or set your probe alignment.
Loosen the two grub screws in your linkage block for the cocking rod. Make sure the cocking lever is all the way forward and stays that way through the process. Insert an Alan wrench in the probe screw then push the Alan wrench to the front of the access port for the screw. While holding that position with the wrench, tighten one of those grub screws down and then you can remove the Alan wrench. Tighten the other screw.

I saw a post here where Bigaru had replaced those two grub screws with an M4x6 Torx head screw. I could not find a Torx but found an Alan head that takes a 3mm Alan. You can get a lot more torque on that than the original screws. Use blue Locktite on them as well. I think the block is aluminum so don’t get carried away with the torque.
If you set the probe so the probe screw is forward in the access port, I am not aware of any way your probe can be out of alignment unless the barrel is not seated properly or the power ports were cut too far forward on the barrel.
 
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Exactly how chukar described the process. Not sure what you were getting at with your pictures but there is not way to check probe alignment by pulling the barrel forward and looking through the transfer port. You have to do it through the access hole to the probe screw. That screw should be front of center of the hole but still accessible by Allen wrench. You will know if that probe comes out of alignment slightly. You will get sporadic super low velocity shots. I personally wouldn’t loc tite those screws. They are pretty delicate and tiny and if you do need to remove them for maintenance I see a potential problem if loc tited.
 
Exactly how chukar described the process. Not sure what you were getting at with your pictures but there is not way to check probe alignment by pulling the barrel forward and looking through the transfer port. You have to do it through the access hole to the probe screw. That screw should be front of center of the hole but still accessible by Allen wrench. You will know if that probe comes out of alignment slightly. You will get sporadic super low velocity shots. I personally wouldn’t loc tite those screws. They are pretty delicate and tiny and if you do need to remove them for maintenance I see a potential problem if loc tited.
That's correct. Loctiting the screws will be a hassle and risky when you want to dismantle the parts. The reason that I suggest locteting the screws because they are moving parts that can be shaken loose over time from the vibration when shooting the gun. But I agree with @Trucker3573 and @Chukar60. It's better to loctite less.

I think one of the most important points is to inspect if the pin probe screw is intact. I found that it broke on my gun because the alignment wasn't perfect and I forced the pin probe screw into the holder connected to the cocking rod.