Tuning Wildcat/Maverick Probe Adjustment

Bigragu, basically the problem is there's a "design flaw" that means you can have a gun that cocks, or have probe that lines up, and there simply isn't enough wiggle room to adjust it where it will work and be lined up. We can make it a little better with probes, but only slightly.

The real solution to this problem is to redo the breech end of the barrel port by shortening it slightly. I've been meaning to do just that, but I haven't really felt the need enough to do it. My Maverick is already a beast and makes great power, and I don't know if going through the trouble of taking my barrel apart and doing the lathe work is worth it for me. I don't like to mess with my guns too much when they're working really well, haha. Now, on a Wildcat MK3, it may be worth that trouble since you're working with a smaller plenum and every little bit matters. 

I'll tell you guys what... If one of you will mark your barrel port/probe and measure exactly how much farther the probe needs to get the projectile to fully clear the port, and mail me your port, I'll modify it and send it back to your specifications. That'll make the muzzle end so the barrel can seat a little further into breech block, which will move the seating position farther forward and the gun will still cock. The other thing you'll need to measure is the actual transfer port in the breech block. That's to make sure that moving that barrel port back a mm or two won't take it out of alignment with the transfer port. If all of that checks out, and you want me to modify your barrel port, then PM me and we'll get that ball rolling. I'm only willing to do it to one, just for the sake of "science". I have no interest in starting up a barrel port modification production line, because I tend to be short on time as it is. I can knock one out though. Any takers can shoot me a message, and I'll do the first one that asks. I make no promises, but I'll give it a try, and it should be a fairly simple process.

Crap, I think I've talked myself into doing my Maverick, lol.



**EDIT**

Keep in mind during your measuring that there needs to be enough material on the barrel port that the notch for the alignment pin can be extended without intersecting the o-ring groove. If you need to move it back more than that notch can be safely extended, then it will be a no go. The tolerances will be tight, but I think it can still be done to some degree at least.
 
I'm sure glad none of you have taken me up on my offer, because you might have been disappointed. I decided to test the idea on my own gun with the modified Huma V1 port I had floating around. I took off around 1.5-2mm which did move the projectile farther into the port and get a better seat on the projectile. It made ZERO difference in velocity at least. I didn't test on target, but it really couldn't be much better than it already was. Then I switched back to my slightly modified factory port. It is modified on the port itself, and not shortened. Yep, the factory port still makes more power on the top end. Many folks already knew that, but a lot of folks are still spending money on the Huma or ER port for the .30. In the case of the .30, just save your money folks. That factory port makes great power ;)
 
Excellent read, everyone here is very good at this hobby. Just on a side note, when I adjusted the pellet probe to show the retention screw on the pellet probe just forward slightly of the access hole I am at 33.75mm. Moving it to 34.15mm puts it pretty far forward and makes Allen key access more difficult. At both measurements I had no issues cocking the rifle. the gun sounds good when fired with both measurements.