WildCat / BobCat POI Shift

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Killzone

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Apr 1, 2015
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Hi all - I have looked thru 45 out of the 89 pages in this topic and I have not found any threads on this issue.
I have just received my WildCat .22 - It shoots great. I noticed a POI shift with the WildCat & my BobCat after being transported in a rifle case that the POI shifted. I gave the barrel and scope a little twist and the POI fell back into place. I suppose there was some force put on the rifle to get something to move. I'm curious to see if anyone else has experienced anything similar.

KZ
 
"Killzone"Hi all - I have looked thru 45 out of the 89 pages in this topic and I have not found any threads on this issue.
I have just received my WildCat .22 - It shoots great. I noticed a POI shift with the WildCat & my BobCat after being transported in a rifle case that the POI shifted. I gave the barrel and scope a little twist and the POI fell back into place. I suppose there was some force put on the rifle to get something to move. I'm curious to see if anyone else has experienced anything similar.

KZ
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Hi KZ, Any movement in shroud or scope will cause a POI shift. Like AZ said, tighten up everything once. I was once having POI shift problems with an airgun I owned. It took me weeks to eliminate the reason for POI shift. I checked the shroud for clipping, adjusted the trigger, double checked the scope, tried new pellets, even modified my hold and reassessed my trigger pull.

Finally I realised that the PICATINNY rail was a bit loose :) :) . It had about a 2 mm movement in it given loose screws and was causing POI shifts at longer ranges. Tightened it up and the gun shot awesomely well. You are lucky to have found the reason for your POI shift so quickly. :) 
 
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Last resort, remove the barrel band oring then test for the same POI shirt.

i would check if the shroud is free floating after the oring is removed and check if shroud is leaning on the barrel band -// if so this will indicate that the air tube clamp is out of aligment or the barrel and shroud are not in line with the set screw on the action breech.
Also try to re torque the barrel band at 180-200b, this will allow less flex on the air tube clamp/barrel band.

Note: when reassemble there is barrel alignment check 
before the air tube clamp are tighten brown -----> barrel must slide in the breech bore without hitting the edge of the bore if it does move the air tube clamp/band till barrel is aLgned then tighten the air tube clamp.
 
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Also a very easy way to check for clipping in your moderator is to remove the anodizing or paint inside the baffles or end cap. With the bare aluminum you will really see the lead streaks. I have found especially on FX guns that opening up the holes slightly will drop the number of flyers caused by clipping. I use a transfer punch or pin gauge with very fine sandpaper and turn the caps or baffles on them till the hole is shiny. Have even had to do this to the shroud end cap on FX guns. My friends Verminator was have poi issues and he didn't believe me till I took the anodizing off and showed him the small streaks in the exact same spot on the endcap. Opened it up a couple thousand and no more problems.
 
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Thank for your replies AZ - I think that sound like a good idea - nice to know although I don't think clipping is the problem cause I am using the huggett from my BobCat .25 with this WildCat .22. And by the way, the Huggett make this rifle unbelievably quite. The hammer hitting the valve is louder than anything else.

Sniper - I checked the air tube bracket screws for tightness and they appeared to be good and I can see how there could be a problem with the POI shifting if the barrel is being manipulated by the barrel band - I am a bit reluctant to take it all apart at this time as the rifle is brand new and under warranty. I don't think the scope is loose as I have removed it to find the optical center and set it back up and zeroed on the optical center. How would you check to see if the shroud is tight. Does it simply unscrews?

KZ
 
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"Note: when reassemble there is barrel alignment check 
before the air tube clamp are tighten brown —–> barrel must slide in the breech bore without hitting the edge of the bore if it does move the air tube clamp/band till barrel is aligned then tighten the air tube clamp."

Sniper - I had the barrel off to replace the breach seal - I think I understand better what you are saying.
Although I haven't tried your suggestion yet I am going to. When I reinstalled the barrel after replacing the seal I noticed the seals on the end of the barrel at the breach end slid into the breach block nicely, but then I could feel it hit something that didn't quite feel right and after a bit of a push it slid past it and I was able to get it in and the set screw back. I thought it was odd when it made contact and it didn't feel right so I took the barrel out, looked around, couldn't see any thing and put it back in in - it made the same contact. After re-reading your post, it makes a lot more sense to me now and I am thinking perhaps there might be a mis-alignment.

Q: Is it normal for the barrel to feel like it is making contact with something after both O-rings have entered the breach block and additional force is needed to move the barrel back where it need to be to align the transfer port - about a half inch (1cm)?

Thanks for your help - KZ
 
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Probably feel the barrel making contact with the block. On the clipping issue just because it works on one gun doesn't mean you don't have an alignment issue on another. And on the end cap and also the individual baffles in the moderator. On the stackable mod I have had to open the 22 to over the 25 cal hole size. Just shoot the gun with just the barrel and no shroud see how it groups. Then but the shroud back on. Clipping I have seen where if you get a couple of flyers every 2 or 3 mags. Reduced to zero by opening them up
 
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Thanks for your reply AZ - I am using a Huggett that is drilled for a .25 cal on this .22 cal WildCat. Do you think it could be clipping?

Sniper - Does my procedure make sense to you? Is there anything that I could do to get better results?

With the .22 WildCat, I removed the front barrel band o-ring - the barrel appeared to making contact on the right side. I shot a group - it was slightly low and right about 1/2 inch at 20 yards.
So I loosened the barrel bands and removed the scope rail - twisted the barrel bands and eyeballed the gap to get the barrel centered around the front barrel band the best I could and tightened the barrel bands. I'm not sure how you tell when the barrel is centered - maybe a narrow shim. I reattached the scope rail and tighten everything up. Shot a group at 20 yards - wow was it off. 2-1/4 left and 3/4 low, 8 shots, one hole. I installed the o-ring and shot a group - it did not move, again 8 shots one hole. I'm shimming the front scope ring to get the windage back on center and I'll adjust the rear ring to move it up. I'll get out to the long range to see if there's improvement at longer distances.

I have installed the Hawk 6.5 - 20 x 42 Sidewinder 30 scope with FX no limit rings with the cross hairs on the optical center and zeroed at 33 yards were I was getting ragged 3/8" one hole groups, pretty consistently with JSB's 18.3 at 872 fps. The groups I shot today at 60 yards were inside 2 inches and at 100 yards were around 5 inches not counting flyers. I think I should be getting tighter groups.
Any insight here would be most appreciated.

Thanks KZ
 
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Hi hsnmz - thanks for your sugestions. I have a bubble level and I've been using it. I am going to put some pellets down range today and see if what I have changed shows any improvement - then I'll put the camera on it and see if I am getting spiraling. Then I'll look into changing the velosity from where it's at - 872fps with the 18 gr JSB's.

KZ
 
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