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WIKA gauges on FX Maverick -- O-ring or X-ring to seal the air?

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Hi guys. I took the 28mm WIKA gauges off of my Maverick so I could replace the seals (o-ring? x-ring?) just because I've got a leak and want to rule them out as the problem. The x-rings or o-rings that are in there now are unrecognizable and look like a pretty cheezy seal between the gauges and the gun (what's left of the seal is smashed to hell). The WIKA gauges I bought came with small fat o-rings that I still have but didn't use. What have you guys used to seal between the 28mm WIKA gauges and the Maverick? I've got tons of different sized nbr70 o-rings to try. I don't think I've got any spare x-rings.

grungy
 
The correct seal for the gauge on the Maverick is a 3.63 X 2.62 'X' ring. The X ring seats in the bottom of the hole that the gauge treads into. I have attached a link to the Maverick parts schematic that shows the X ring is part C65. These X rings can be bought from "oringsandmore.com" if you do not want to source them through FX USA, I have also attached a link for that. Do not over tighten the gauge or you will smash the crap out of the X ring and destroy it... snug is all it needs.


 
The correct seal for the gauge on the Maverick is a 3.63 X 2.62 'X' ring. The X ring seats in the bottom of the hole that the gauge treads into. I have attached a link to the Maverick parts schematic that shows the X ring is part C65. These X rings can be bought from "oringsandmore.com" if you do not want to source them through FX USA, I have also attached a link for that. Do not over tighten the gauge or you will smash the crap out of the X ring and destroy it... snug is all it needs.


Hi cwcarrera. Dude, you are my hero -- really! The problem was not that FX put the wrong rings in the gun. It was that they torqued it in like a lug nut being cranked onto a race car during a pit stop at Daytona. They smashed the poop out of it -- thus unrecognizable. Got it now. Thank you for the detailed solution to my (FX's) problem.

grungy
 
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I had to replace a faulty wika gauge I ordered for my fx streamline as the gauge itself leaked out of the box. I ordered a new gauge direct from fx USA and when I spoke to a tech I asked him what they sent with the gauge to go behind it as a seal. He said nothing, just screw it in there. Damned if that didn’t work and it has been fine not one leak. I recently had a leaky gauge on my gamo coyote. Cleaned the old pieces of whatever was in there from the factory out, screwed the gauge back in and all good.
 
Just...like the ones that are on the factory gauges...
Or in my case, I used...the ones "from" the factory gauges.

Mike
Hi Mike. Thank you for trying to help. The problem with the word "standard" in FX land (and maybe it is just the Maverick) is that there are variations from Maverick to Maverick -- and I'm talking about brand new Mavericks from FX that are the same model like both are .30 cal sniper -- not used or modified by the distributor. Early Mavericks had flat rails as opposed to the 20 MOA rail that was advertised. Early Mavericks had barrels (liners) of different twist rates (even within the same caliber and barrel length). Early Mavericks had a straight grub screw for the fine hammer preload adjuster as opposed to the later Mavericks that had a capped machine screw. Early Mavericks had delrin (plastic) regulator pistons as opposed to the brass pistons that would be on a Maverick purchased now. Soon a new Maverick will have a new brass piston in the regulator that is different than the brass piston that has only been around for about a year now (so 3 possible reg pistons). The hammer spring that FX decides to put in a new Maverick is anybody's guess -- whatever FX has laying around in a junk drawer. And you never know for sure which hammer FX will put in the gun or if there will also be a hammer spring spacer. My Maverick came with 12 bellville washers on the regulators. I asked for a new set for my specific Maverick (.30 sniper) and FX sent me a couple of 11 bellville washer stacks. Early Mavericks came with crappy cheap air gauges. Later Mavericks came with 1 WIKA gauge for the tank and 1 piece of crap gauge for the 2nd regulator. I have no idea what air gauges would be on a Maverick purchased now.

Even though I have the schematic for the Maverick, the ruined seals that FX installed for my air gauges were FUBAR to the point that I couldn't be sure that ordering the parts from the schematic was the right choice. So I asked what other guys are using to seal a WIKA 28mm to a Maverick. Cwcarrerra answered the question expertly. Order the part from the schematic and just don't tighten the air gauge any more than needed to get it to seal.

FX doesn't make it easy for us.

grungy
 
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I had to replace a faulty wika gauge I ordered for my fx streamline as the gauge itself leaked out of the box. I ordered a new gauge direct from fx USA and when I spoke to a tech I asked him what they sent with the gauge to go behind it as a seal. He said nothing, just screw it in there. Damned if that didn’t work and it has been fine not one leak. I recently had a leaky gauge on my gamo coyote. Cleaned the old pieces of whatever was in there from the factory out, screwed the gauge back in and all good.
Hi Trucker3573. I'm not familiar with the streamline series or the gamo. If the seal was a delrin (tough plastic) washer at the bottom of the threaded hole, then that would explain why a replacement washer was not needed. Those thick plastic delrin washers (technically an x-ring - but made of delrin - not like a rubbery o-ring) with the tiny hole in the center can have stuff screwed onto and off of them over and over without needing to be replaced. Sometimes they need to be replaced, but not often. Another possibility is that the threads of the gauge and gun were tapered, so they would be self-sealing once tight. And finally, it's possible that there was a douherty (spelling?) washer between the gauge and the side of the gun. These washers look like steel flat washers, but have a rubber cup-shaped bit around the indside diameter that seal the air. These don't need to be replaced very often.

I'm kind of surprised at the number of WIKA gauges that are being reported as leaking. I expect any of the 28mm or larger WIKA gauges to be rock solid. Maybe WIKA makes a smaller cheaper gauge that I haven't seen before that isn't as well built as the WIKA gauges I've seen.

grungy
 
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The 2nd reg pressure gauge on my Maverick is a Wika and easy to read. From the factory .
Hey there Headshots. My Maverick came with a 250-bar 28mm WIKA on the front to read the bottle tank pressure, but for some reason they put the cheapest piece of junk gauge on the rear for reading the regulator pressures. The cheap gauge was WAAAYY off of the mark -- not accurate at all. I immediately replaced it with another 250 bar 28mm WIKA. These WIKA 28mm gauges are accurate and can be read down to within a half a bar by a really near-sighted person like myself. If someone offered to give me a fancy digital gauge I would accept the gift and sell it, and I would keep my mechanical WIKA on my Maverick.

grungy
 
All of the current FX guns use X-rings or Delrin and have for years. The Maverick uses an X-ring.
Thanks TwoLoe88. I did look at the schematic and saw that, but it would not have done me any good to just replace with the same x-ring (without more info) because I would have cranked the gauge on really hard just like FX did at the factory and chewed it up all over again. Last night I ordered a bag of x-rings specified in the schematic from o-rings-and-more. Ironically, when I first got my Maverick I looked through the entire schematic and ordered a bag of every ring specified in the schematic from o-rings-and-more, but I guess the x-ring was out of stock at the time. I'm kind of surprised that FX didn't use a delrin x-ring for the Maverick gauges. I'm still not sure if either of my WIKA 28mm gauges or the seals under them is where my leak is coming from, but I really hope it is. If it's not, then I'm afraid I might have a main hammer valve leak -- jeeze I hope it's not the valve.

grungy
 
Thanks TwoLoe88. I did look at the schematic and saw that, but it would not have done me any good to just replace with the same x-ring (without more info) because I would have cranked the gauge on really hard just like FX did at the factory and chewed it up all over again. Last night I ordered a bag of x-rings specified in the schematic from o-rings-and-more. Ironically, when I first got my Maverick I looked through the entire schematic and ordered a bag of every ring specified in the schematic from o-rings-and-more, but I guess the x-ring was out of stock at the time. I'm kind of surprised that FX didn't use a delrin x-ring for the Maverick gauges. I'm still not sure if either of my WIKA 28mm gauges or the seals under them is where my leak is coming from, but I really hope it is. If it's not, then I'm afraid I might have a main hammer valve leak -- jeeze I hope it's not the valve.

grungy
The X-ring shouldn't be very tight, because of the design, the X portion expands and seals itself. If you screw the gauge down by hand, once you feel the gauge starting to crush, STOP! You shouldn't need any wrench. The Wika gauges hardly ever leak internally and if they do, the air comes out around the lens..
 
The X-ring shouldn't be very tight, because of the design, the X portion expands and seals itself. If you screw the gauge down by hand, once you feel the gauge starting to crush, STOP! You shouldn't need any wrench. The Wika gauges hardly ever leak internally and if they do, the air comes out around the lens..
Thanks TwoLoe88 on how tight to make em' and also for where to watch for a leak from a WIKA gauge. Without your help I would have assumed a leak from a WIKA gauge would have come out through the side where the "vent" or "over pressure" hole is that has the sticker covering it. So I learned two things today.

grungy
 
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Hi Mike. Thank you for trying to help. The problem with the word "standard" in FX land (and maybe it is just the Maverick) is that there are variations from Maverick to Maverick -- and I'm talking about brand new Mavericks from FX that are the same model like both are .30 cal sniper -- not used or modified by the distributor. Early Mavericks had flat rails as opposed to the 20 MOA rail that was advertised. Early Mavericks had barrels (liners) of different twist rates (even within the same caliber and barrel length). Early Mavericks had a straight grub screw for the fine hammer preload adjuster as opposed to the later Mavericks that had a capped machine screw. Early Mavericks had delrin (plastic) regulator pistons as opposed to the brass pistons that would be on a Maverick purchased now. Soon a new Maverick will have a new brass piston in the regulator that is different than the brass piston that has only been around for about a year now (so 3 possible reg pistons). The hammer spring that FX decides to put in a new Maverick is anybody's guess -- whatever FX has laying around in a junk drawer. And you never know for sure which hammer FX will put in the gun or if there will also be a hammer spring spacer. My Maverick came with 12 bellville washers on the regulators. I asked for a new set for my specific Maverick (.30 sniper) and FX sent me a couple of 11 bellville washer stacks. Early Mavericks came with crappy cheap air gauges. Later Mavericks came with 1 WIKA gauge for the tank and 1 piece of crap gauge for the 2nd regulator. I have no idea what air gauges would be on a Maverick purchased now.

Even though I have the schematic for the Maverick, the ruined seals that FX installed for my air gauges were FUBAR to the point that I couldn't be sure that ordering the parts from the schematic was the right choice. So I asked what other guys are using to seal a WIKA 28mm to a Maverick. Cwcarrerra answered the question expertly. Order the part from the schematic and just don't tighten the air gauge any more than needed to get it to seal.

FX doesn't make it easy for us.

grungy
I endorse this message, one of mine was supposedly newer but had a 0 MOA toprail, as did one that was a touch older, so they must have been using up old stock. I've got new ones on their way, courtesy of FX. The brass reg. pistons, the one that FX sent was too long, by .5mm, the later ones are shorter, getting new ones courtesy of FX. Frankly if I'd produced stuff in my previous life like they do I'd have been fired.
 
I endorse this message, one of mine was supposedly newer but had a 0 MOA toprail, as did one that was a touch older, so they must have been using up old stock. I've got new ones on their way, courtesy of FX. The brass reg. pistons, the one that FX sent was too long, by .5mm, the later ones are shorter, getting new ones courtesy of FX. Frankly if I'd produced stuff in my previous life like they do I'd have been fired.
Hi HogKiller. Thanks for the endorsement. I could go on and on with my gripes, but I'll stop while I'm ahead (for now).

grungy
 
I endorse this message, one of mine was supposedly newer but had a 0 MOA toprail, as did one that was a touch older, so they must have been using up old stock. I've got new ones on their way, courtesy of FX. The brass reg. pistons, the one that FX sent was too long, by .5mm, the later ones are shorter, getting new ones courtesy of FX. Frankly if I'd produced stuff in my previous life like they do I'd have been fired.
Hi again HogKiller. The following is a subject for an entirely new thread, but I'm giving you a heads up.

If you have a ZERO MOA scope rail for your Maverick, don't throw it away! Use it on your Maverick. The 20 MOA rail that came on my Maverick clearly demonstrates that FX just slopped out a placebo rail that is so geometrically out of whack that it tries to warp the entire structure of the gun when tightened down. If you have a 20 MOA rail on your Maverick and you can slide a feeler gauge between the scope rail and the supporting posts that it is screwed onto, then that is bad. Depending on whether you tighten the posts onto the gun from the botton up or tighten the rail first and then tighten the rest of the stuff down to the bottom (so order dependent) might make the rail fit flush to the posts, BUT then the structural warpage is just moved to around the plenum tube -- still trying to warp the gun. At least that's the way my 20 MOA rail was until I literally threw it in the trash. I had to look hard for a ZERO MOA rail that I bought used in order to straighten things out.

grungy
 
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