Why are 16X groups tighter than 32X ?

[Jonnes]

"jking"Well, I shot again this morning while there wasn't any wind to speak of and the coolest part of the day. Set the scope to 32X and checked the parallax for focus first and then alignment doing my best Owl imitation. Really couldn't detect and noticeable misadjustment so I shot three warm up shots to make sure the velocity and regulator was all good. One of the things I like about my 500 is that it's spot on from shot one. My other two PCP's need a few shots to get to cruising speed. Anyway my groups averaged right with the groups from earlier that I shot at 16X. The 16X slightly better due to the .287 group. I used a target aim point of circle that was .250-.270" and kept the reticle dot within the circle for the shot cycle. Could of used a smaller circle with the fine dot of the Sightron scope even at 80yds (I love that small dot). I could definitely see my movements while trying to stay on/in the center. Might try 24X for a happy medium next time..
Jimmy

Maybe you are a bit too much aware of your breathing at higher magnification (because you see it more) and that's why your groups open up. Luckily it's not a parallax issue, so your scope is fine. That leaves me with one other bit of advice; try shooting between hartbeats (be more aware of them) and watch your breathing. Normally you should breath in, and out three times, hold your breath at 1/3rd (the point where your lungs are relaxed) when breathing out, and place the shot in between heart beats within 5 seconds. Also important is trigger control. Be sure you don't pull the trigger, just build up pressure slowly and don't try to predict the shot. Just let it happen. Make sure you place your finger always in the same way on the trigger, right in the middle of your first phalange, pulling it back in line with your stock. Don't try to pull to the left or right, that causes you to pull the shot in that direction.

Once you get the hang of that, you'll notice that your groups will close up and you will get better shot placement.

 

[jking]

Thanks John
Nope, 80yds. That's as far as I can shoot at the house and you have to have zero wind which is rare around here. Usually this time of year early in the morning and late in the evening.
jimmy

 

[Kitplanenut]

Jonnes. I have been following this thread and your instructions. I'm shooting the Athlon 8x34x56 BTR's. Thought I had a pretty good understanding, but your instructions have helped me with my airgun shooting. I also noticed a noticeable improvement shooting my Creedmor on the 1000 yard range. Just wanted to say thank you for some great advice. Any advice for those of us that do have to ware prescription glasses? Thanks again. Sylvan

 

[Jonnes]

Thanks for your feedback Sylvan! Glad to hear some of those tips worked for you. With prescription glasses you have two options. One (if you don't have a cylindrical divergency) is to try and play with the ocular adjustment ring to compensate for your eye's divergency, but keep on checking your parallax while adjusting! Most scopes allow for some degree of adjustment. If you have a cylinder, you can buy custom made sockets for your scope that allow you to mount an additional lens, but that's somewhat expensive (around $300 to $400). Those lenses and sockets have to be custom made for your dominant/shooting eye in combination with your rifle scope. There's just a hand full of companies that are experienced in making those.

The other option is to get special shooting glasses (google for Knobloch for instance), but again these need to be custom made to fit your eye. You can't use regular subscription lenses or glasses because of the focal point. You can either fixate those custom cut lenses on you scope, use them as shooting glasses (the round lens mount should be centred in relation to your scope) or use custom made sockets. I.e. it all depends on your eye divergency. 

By the way, 6.5 creedmoor rules! Best round ever.