I set up my 22 paradigm with redesigned JSB's Athlon scope 2.25 above bore. I zeroed @ 50. Im setting around running numbers in strelok. Which zero bellow would you use?
Which Zero would you use
- Thread starter oldsparky
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25-40 is effectively zeroed for that entire range (0.1 inches holdunder at most), it covers the 30-35 very well. The 20-50 has 0.5 inches of hold-under which I'm not a fan of. It's up to your preference but that would be my thinking. I think the 25-40 is also an ideal distance for most pellet hunting.
My current zeroes are 20-40 with 1/4 inch holdunder. It used to be a flat zero from 20-35 until I moved to lower elevation, I'll probably pick a new zero at a flatter point in the shot soon.
What pellet are you shooting that retains it's velocity that well? Or are those slugs?
My current zeroes are 20-40 with 1/4 inch holdunder. It used to be a flat zero from 20-35 until I moved to lower elevation, I'll probably pick a new zero at a flatter point in the shot soon.
What pellet are you shooting that retains it's velocity that well? Or are those slugs?
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Hey Jim. Looks like you're getting set up for some extreme field target!
I mostly agree with what's already been said. Clicking is allowed so take advantage of it and click for the match. If you truly have 1/2inch of holdunder it won't be a problem, given kill zone sizes and realistic amount of wobble you'll see in the scope (ie. you're a more stable shooter than myself if you can hold the crosshairs within 1/2 an inch.)
My method for regular and extreme ft is to simply make two columns on a sheet of paper. Left column is distances you want to know data for, right column is click value. Then I go shoot all those distances and write down the values. The more times (various conditions) you can repeat (read REFINE) collection of the data, the better your score will be at the match. (collection of the data = shooting all the distances).
So, it usually looks something like this for XFT distances (left is yards, right is click on a 1/10mil per click scope).
20-0.7
25-0.4
30-0.2
35-0
50-0
55-0.4
60-0.8
65-1
70-1.3
75-1.6
80-1.9
85-2.4
90-3
95-3.5
100-4
That's my cheat sheet, and what I work off during a match. Once the data gets really solid, I'll laminate it and stick it to a gun or in the scope cap. Of course adjusting slightly for each shot, based on what I see happing during a match (heavy air or a drift in a certain direction or change in elevation, etc).
Forgot to add that I do use Strelok as I'm setting up the cheat/dope sheet. It's fun to compare predicted to actual. It's also interesting to note how slight changes you make in how you hold a gun or where you place the sticks under the gun can influence the dope data across the board (like making it shoot "flatter" than Strelok says it should if you've got the sticks in a place that lets the muzzle "flip" up a bit at the trigger break).
I mostly agree with what's already been said. Clicking is allowed so take advantage of it and click for the match. If you truly have 1/2inch of holdunder it won't be a problem, given kill zone sizes and realistic amount of wobble you'll see in the scope (ie. you're a more stable shooter than myself if you can hold the crosshairs within 1/2 an inch.)
My method for regular and extreme ft is to simply make two columns on a sheet of paper. Left column is distances you want to know data for, right column is click value. Then I go shoot all those distances and write down the values. The more times (various conditions) you can repeat (read REFINE) collection of the data, the better your score will be at the match. (collection of the data = shooting all the distances).
So, it usually looks something like this for XFT distances (left is yards, right is click on a 1/10mil per click scope).
20-0.7
25-0.4
30-0.2
35-0
50-0
55-0.4
60-0.8
65-1
70-1.3
75-1.6
80-1.9
85-2.4
90-3
95-3.5
100-4
That's my cheat sheet, and what I work off during a match. Once the data gets really solid, I'll laminate it and stick it to a gun or in the scope cap. Of course adjusting slightly for each shot, based on what I see happing during a match (heavy air or a drift in a certain direction or change in elevation, etc).
Forgot to add that I do use Strelok as I'm setting up the cheat/dope sheet. It's fun to compare predicted to actual. It's also interesting to note how slight changes you make in how you hold a gun or where you place the sticks under the gun can influence the dope data across the board (like making it shoot "flatter" than Strelok says it should if you've got the sticks in a place that lets the muzzle "flip" up a bit at the trigger break).
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To summarize, zero your scope for about 30 yards. That would give you something like no hold over or clicks needed for 25-45 yards (assuming muzzle speed of about 910 with. 22 MRDs). So I consider my "zero" the range of distances where no hold over or clicks are required.
I consider Strelok as predicted or suggested impact points, but it's best if shots can be taken at the various distances to gather actual impact points.
I consider Strelok as predicted or suggested impact points, but it's best if shots can be taken at the various distances to gather actual impact points.
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Let your experience with the shooting discipline, be it target or hunting, dictate the zero range you choose. With ballistics similar to yours, I've been using a 40 yard zero for the flatness of the trajectory. It is essentially flat within 1/2" from 15-50 yards. I do this for quick hunting shots and nominal yardages and also because I usually dial the scope for long range silhouette shooting also. With a 40 yard zero there's only a few yards where the hold under matters, by less than the diameter of the slug. Keeping your scope close to the bore helps here also.
With a 30 yard zero everything is a holdover, but you need to be more precise just past 30 and beyond because it isn't as "flat".
Because a 50 yard zero has a longer yardage range of hold-under, from 25-45 yards, there is more of a possibility of hold error there if your shooting at small precise scoring targets. This zero range isn't too bad for a hunting rig though, because it is within 1/2" of flat and only requires 1/2 mil of hold under for those 20 yards, and 1/2 mil holdover out at 60 yards. Again, it is probably best to let experience and the shooting discipline decide.
With a 30 yard zero everything is a holdover, but you need to be more precise just past 30 and beyond because it isn't as "flat".
Because a 50 yard zero has a longer yardage range of hold-under, from 25-45 yards, there is more of a possibility of hold error there if your shooting at small precise scoring targets. This zero range isn't too bad for a hunting rig though, because it is within 1/2" of flat and only requires 1/2 mil of hold under for those 20 yards, and 1/2 mil holdover out at 60 yards. Again, it is probably best to let experience and the shooting discipline decide.
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I think the only answer is, use the method with which you are most comfortable. The goal is to know where the pellet is going to hit at a given distance, and we have different methods and preferences. For hunting, I would tend to zero at a distance that results in less drop at my maximum range, but which doesn't produce an extreme need for hold under at mid range. In other words, I can hit the squirrel well at mid range without worrying about hold, and that requires less hold over at the maximum. If I were doing FT, I would zero at the maximum trajectory, so all my holds would be over. Man, this is harder to write about than to do! Know your rifle, that's all that matters.
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Thanks for the advice. I do use strelok to set up and get an idea. Then I shoot and make a dope card. Using the new scope I put on I had to use taller rings than I am use to. I was surprised at the change. I have set up all of my rifles previously for hold overs and never hold under. I agree dialing turrets is the best for accuracy. But I have shoot a whole FT match and keep saying "man there must be more wind out there than I thought" then got home and looked at my turret that wasn't on zero.
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