Which magnification

It's going to be difficult to find a scope that will focus down to 6 yards, 10 is the norm. How much do you have to spend on the scope? What are you shooting, if you are after rodents the wider field of view that the lower power scopes can be an advantage. Shooting targets the higher power will be handy, 25 and up.
Look at @JungleShooter list of scopes there are plenty of ideas.
 
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Shooting dime-size circles @ 50 yards is hard under 24 power, hunting/pesting is best @ 8-10 power, so 6-24, or similar, works for me.
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I'd get the Athlon Heras 2-12. It's higher quality with better glass than many scopes that get mentioned.
It's the sleeper scope that doesn't get the notoriety it deserves.
With a .2 MIL hash reticle and center dot that is very rare in these types of scopes. But also available in MOA reticle.
Very nice and distinct elevation turret at 10 mils per rev, or 25 MOA per rev.
Locking windage turret too.
I'd describe it as like a 4-12x40 Leupold from 40 years ago but highly updated to modern standards in various ways to be more versatile for long range both dialing and for holdovers on 12.

At 6Y you'll need to use lower magnification but I was surprised how close mine would focus on 12x which was around 8 yards.
 
I'd get the Athlon Heras 2-12. It's higher quality with better glass than many scopes that get mentioned.
It's the sleeper scope that doesn't get the notoriety it deserves.
With a .2 MIL hash reticle and center dot that is very rare in these types of scopes. But also available in MOA reticle.
Very nice and distinct elevation turret at 10 mils per rev, or 25 MOA per rev.
Locking windage turret too.
I'd describe it as like a 4-12x40 Leupold from 40 years ago but highly updated to modern standards in various ways to be more versatile for long range both dialing and for holdovers on 12.

At 6Y you'll need to use lower magnification but I was surprised how close mine would focus on 12x which was around 8 yards.
This scope has my attention for sure. If it had illumination...at least an illuminated center dot I would have bought it yesterday. It just checks all the boxes for a great hunting scope, imo

What is your opinion on the reticle thickness? Is it fairly visible even in the dark woods? It looks a bit thin to me even though it is SFP
 
Hi, does anyone know what magnification I should buy to start from 6 yards to for example minimum 70 yards . For example, 3x12 or so?
It depends entirely on what you are trying to do and what you want your scope to do for you. Are you primarily a hunter, plinker, or target shooter?

One thing I learned long ago is that no one optic can do everything perfectly...
 
This scope has my attention for sure. If it had illumination...at least an illuminated center dot I would have bought it yesterday. It just checks all the boxes for a great hunting scope, imo

What is your opinion on the reticle thickness? Is it fairly visible even in the dark woods? It looks a bit thin to me even though it is SFP
It is a thinner reticle so in a darker background it could get lost but I haven't run across that potential problem yet since I use it for mostly long range steel on my 22 magnum semiauto.
I will say I can see the reticle against black cinders.
 
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I owned the Helos 2-12 BTR and while the quality and performance was there the reticle was just too messy and complicated for me. Still, the Helos 2-12 might be the ultimate do it all "budget" hunting scope on the market.

Ha, you should try a Horus reticle then for "complicated". It's actually simple but you have to understand how to use that reticle to your advantage.

But the mil reticle in the HG2 2-12 is basically designed for quick acquisition and in situations where seeing the reticle anytime anywhere is the #1 priority. It's a great fit to my Steyr ProX because I mostly shoot steel fast with it and if I needed it for hunting I knows MIL's well for holding over and holding off using the reticle.
Heck I won our PFT Hunter division at state a few years ago with it on my Thomas converted to pistol, which is holdovers and holdoffs only.

It's VERY versatile indeed, but heavier than the Heras, and costs more.
 
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For me what I want to shoot at makes a big difference. I really like my Primary Arms 4-14, for instance. But it doesn't work great for target shooting, like 30 yard challenge targets. The reticle is too thick. But that thick reticle remains visible down to 4X and for hunting/plinking I really like that scope (it is FFP).

For target shooting I like 6-24 scopes but I want them to be SFP so I can have a fine reticle and see it at 6X. In my experience a fine reticle in a FFP 6-24 becomes almost invisible at 6X. 8X can be a problem at times.

The quality of the glass can also affect visibility of the target in somewhat the same way as magnification. I use a Vector Sentinel 8-32 scope for shooting 30 yard challenge targets. Works fine at 32X. But I can see the target as well with my Athlon Talos 6-24 or my Arken EPL-4 6-24. So I can shoot as well with a 6-24 with decent glass as I can with a low end 8-32.
 
It depends entirely on what you are trying to do and what you want your scope to do for you. Are you primarily a hunter, plinker, or target shooter?

One thing I learned long ago is that no one optic can do everything perfectly...
Thanks for the reaction, it's mainly for rating purposes with my p35.
 
Your actual Hawke is a Vantage with the mil-dot or fine duplex but the Hawke AMX is completely different, thinner lines and wider recticle designed for the airgun.
You asked for a short parallax adj and that's why my suggestion.
I own Hawke Vantage 4-12x40 mil-dot, Hawke Airmax 2-7x32(short distance), 3-9x40(best overall) and 4-12x40.
For longer distance and ready for firearms I have also a Element Helix 4-16x44 APR-2D FFP MRAD...
 
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Thanks for the reaction, it's mainly for rating purposes with my p35.
Here's how the Heras looks compared to a old Nikon 3-9. Notice the length of the Heras without the sunshade. The Heras is so much more versatile it's amazing to see in reality having used both of them on the same gun.

As I mentioned on another thread = Warranty, Warranty, Warranty. No hassle if ever a problem.

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