What's a good way to remove a stuck bullet?

ajshootsWooden dowel rod and a hammer would be my preferred method.


I second that, and would add that you should swab the barrel from both directions right up to the lodged projectile with an oiled patch as it will make for an easy exit the rest of the way once you dislodge it.

Brass will be expensive, wood should get it no problem. If the wood splits or just deflects when struck, grab a proper piece of steel and wrap it completely in at least 2 layers of electrical tape to avoid any contact with the rifling.
 
I know this probably isn't popular and probably a last resort but I've removed the barrel and orings completely and used a torch and slowly heated the barrel up. the led came dripping out and I did a thorough cleaning. Still shoots dead on, I didnt want to risk damaging the inside of the barrel and I had more than two pellets in the barrel. Lead melting point is 621 degrees F where steel is 2600 - 2800f. I'd have to imagine its been done before?
 
"phokingood"I know this probably isn't popular and probably a last resort but I've removed the barrel and orings completely and used a torch and slowly heated the barrel up. the led came dripping out and I did a thorough cleaning. Still shoots dead on, I didnt want to risk damaging the inside of the barrel and I had more than two pellets in the barrel. Lead melting point is 621 degrees F where steel is 2600 - 2800f. I'd have to imagine its been done before?
I had a .40 cal percussion lock rifle that had a ball seated without powder. None of the conventional methods, a little powder in the vent, a ball worm, etc, nothing worked to remove the ball. We melted that ball out of that barrel. I haven't properly tempered that bit of steel yet but next chance I get I'll take her up to a nice dull red and let it cool really slowly to soften it up. We do what we have to do sometimes.
 
"oldspook"
"phokingood"I know this probably isn't popular and probably a last resort but I've removed the barrel and orings completely and used a torch and slowly heated the barrel up. the led came dripping out and I did a thorough cleaning. Still shoots dead on, I didnt want to risk damaging the inside of the barrel and I had more than two pellets in the barrel. Lead melting point is 621 degrees F where steel is 2600 - 2800f. I'd have to imagine its been done before?
I had a .40 cal percussion lock rifle that had a ball seated without powder. None of the conventional methods, a little powder in the vent, a ball worm, etc, nothing worked to remove the ball. We melted that ball out of that barrel. I haven't properly tempered that bit of steel yet but next chance I get I'll take her up to a nice dull red and let it cool really slowly to soften it up. We do what we have to do sometimes.
Yes Sir! There was definitely the oh @#$ factor when it happened...but you are correct....You gotta do what you gotta do. I will say I rested much better after I shot it a few times post meltdown. 
 
Along the melt-it-out line of thought, an improvement might be to reduce the temp needed by alloying the lead out. Cerrosafe alloy melts about 165° F. Heat the barrel to about 250°, melt some cerrosafe and pour it in; as the melt dissolves the lead, the melt temp will rise, but not too much. 250° should do it. 

Rose's metal, 50% bismuth, 25% lead, 25% tin melting at 208° would do it and might find solders at the hardware store to do it. 

250° F is too low to affect the temper of any steel. Starting around 300° a spring steel temper could slack at bit, but no safe barrel uses a spring temper.
 
For those who do not want to try the melting trick... start with a brass rod slightly smaller than the bore (assuming your bore is steel and not brass). Grind the end for the brass rod with a "spade drill bit" shape. It works best if you have the spade slightly smaller than the OD of the brass rod. Very Using high rpms and low pressure drill out the offending lead slug. What is left is a weaker led cylinder, which taps out with ease.