I'm replacing the power switch and while dismantling the interior I can's remember where this part goes
Thanks
Thanks
What part of the GX PUMP CS3 PCP Air Compressor near power switch is this ?
- Thread starter Goldwing
- Start date
Noted also moisture bleed tube melted against the hot motor and will need to replace it with a heat resistant one
That means when bleeding off the pressure 1/2 the moisture was going off in the case
That means when bleeding off the pressure 1/2 the moisture was going off in the case
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It starts up now with the new switch but when I push the start button it causes the new switch to turn off the pump.
It stop working when I started up the commpresor with pressure build up, makes me wonder if the motor/piston got frozen when I did that
It stop working when I started up the commpresor with pressure build up, makes me wonder if the motor/piston got frozen when I did that
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Have you taken off the cylinder head? You should be able to move the piston by hand.l from the top end. If you want, I can help you trouble shoot.
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No not yet, I must be stuck when starting it under a load?
Looks like I need to disassemble the mechanics front of it first to get to the motor and cycendar?
Thanks for the help
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Well the way I see it the motor started drawing a large load because of an issue with to much friction, that could be caused by several things but that in turn cause the issue with your switch and breaker burning up. Replacing the switch and breaker is not going to repair the high load, it will just fail again.
Allen
Allen
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And since target forge has probably the most experience with the gx products I would definitely consider contacting him with your issues. I'm sure he has a pretty good idea what the root cause is and can give you direction as to where to go next.
Allen
Allen
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I might just watch his slow to get the the point videos first, but I hear he's kind of out of the game a bit
I'll disassemble the front area to get to the motor and cylinder to see if it's frozen
I'll disassemble the front area to get to the motor and cylinder to see if it's frozen
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Were it on my bench and if I had green light to dig into the issue... ( Lemme know if I gloss over some parts too much. Based on my rebuild of the CS3)
Remove top of cylinder and try to move piston by hand. You can go in from the grease port and see the piston.
Remove wrist pin and Pull piston out for inspection. Try to move the crank shaft and motor by hand. Should have resistance but move smoothly.
The motor may have stalled and burned the wires inside. Replace motor.
-my flow chart showed the control board was dead.
The motor may have stalled and burned the control circuit board. By pass the board to see if the motor will run on direct 12v input.
Do you have a multimeter? Check continuity for shorted wires and voltage.
Remove top of cylinder and try to move piston by hand. You can go in from the grease port and see the piston.
Remove wrist pin and Pull piston out for inspection. Try to move the crank shaft and motor by hand. Should have resistance but move smoothly.
The motor may have stalled and burned the wires inside. Replace motor.
-my flow chart showed the control board was dead.
The motor may have stalled and burned the control circuit board. By pass the board to see if the motor will run on direct 12v input.
Do you have a multimeter? Check continuity for shorted wires and voltage.
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I think your spot on in your experience and will try this fix, I've needed a multimeter for a long time and a good excuse to get one, thanks for the help
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Hmmm. Can you check continuity? Resistance between the different windings?
Can you run me through the chain of events that led to failure and what you have tried to remedy?
As far as the motor, I don't know the cost. Sorry.
Can you run me through the chain of events that led to failure and what you have tried to remedy?
As far as the motor, I don't know the cost. Sorry.
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