Yes! it is. I don't shoot it much (kind of grainy cocking...feels and sounds like a lot drag in the compression tube) after getting a Boss and accessories to upgrade my other pcp's. That N-tec trigger is pcp grade Butter!
DD now ask the million answer question ...Which lube to use . You gonna get answers anywhere from whale blubber to axle grease . Stick with Jonnes , he's Very knowledgeable about springers . He's yet to steer my simple minded ass wrong
LOL, you give me way too much credits bro. WAY! You're the wonder doctor here when it comes to springers mate.
But now the $64,000 question... The grease I used is ... [drum rolls] ... None! I cleaned the piston with gun oil, rubbed it off with a dry cloth (leaving just enough to prevent rust, but not enough for dieseling), and then rubbed a little bit of graphite on the piston with a brush. If you see the graphite ball up, you remove the oil a but more, until it doesn't clot anymore. I Did the same with my FWB300S recently, after I used a tad bit too much grease, making it shot below it's potential. No twang, no smelly dieseling, just a smooth cocking stroke and release of the piston, resulting in a nice dry 'TOK'. That's what you wanna hear!
I personally do pretty much the same clean it thoroughly, wipe it down with a thin oil , and then wipe off all the excess I can . I use Red+Tacky grease on spring ends . And on the spring itself I just use the tiniest amount of oil just enough to keep it from rusting and then wipe it dry also . The only reason I use any grease at all is that I had two different rifles that the spring tried to bind just the tiniest bit in rear over the spring guide . Total lube I use on a rebuild is less than 1 drop of oil in size
Yeah Jonnes that solid TOK ( great word by the way ) I've found I always a sign you on the right track . I took a gun apart a few weeks ago SO saturated in grease and oil I had to use gasoline to get it all out of the gun .
Ouch! The problem with the internet is that people have a lot of pseudo knowledge. They heard someone say that he overheard another guy saying that his cousin from his mothers side said to his friend who knows someone who..... Ah well, you get the picture. No, seriously, there's a lot of crappy advice out there. I've learned from experience. From making mistakes, and from experimenting over a long looooooong period of time. I've done it wrong a million times, before I got it right. To paraphrase Thomas Edison; "I haven't failed, I've found 10,000 ways that won't work" ~ and one that did, in this case.
Oh, and with regard to 'TOK', it's phonetic... I don't know how else to describe that sound.
I used 600 and then 1200 grit sand paper on the rough parts, and finished the piston off with 0000 steel wool and a lot of elbow grease. If you can see the reflection of your nose hairs on the piston, you're there.
Edit: as Joe says, don't over do it on the piston parts that touch each other.
A magnum airgun is a velocity thing with respect to caliber. The way I define it is a magnum airgun is one in which the velocity of a pellet that has the same weight as a lead round ball meets or exceeds 1000 ft/s. Lead round balls do not seal as well as pellets, so the velocity of the pellet is generally a bit faster than the round ball. This puts the 18 ft-lb class of .177 rifles, and the 35 ft-lb class .22s in the magnum category.
Correct for the .177, but not quite for the .22! Those are more in the 800 F/ps or 22 F/lbs range. Besides, a .22 springer magnum that shoots at 35 F/lbs? I've yet to find one that's able to shoot that hard.