What did you do airgun related today.

Out at the range again for the third day in a row.

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Today I put my dead head test plug in my Tuxing Compressor it would only fill to 3,000.😡 I'm seeking help under a post with the exact same problem.
The red in the frown face is not anger it is heat I live in Tucson Arizona 103°F out. Lol
If it's like a Yong Heng compressor, most likely the high side piston ring ( carbon ring) is worn causing blow by. It's does not like to run above 65 deg C. I don't use the recirculating pump anymore, I run a straight hose from the faucet and just let it drain to the lawn.
 
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I put a scope setup list together.

Rifle scope sighting adjustment, POA = point of aim & POI = point of impact.
  • 1. Start with the rifle/scope securely mounted on a table/bench where it will remain stationary with NO movement.
  • 2. Use a paper target that is set out at 25 to 100 yards from rifle/scope.
  • 3. Fire a 3 shot group without moving rifle/scope using the same (POA) for each shot.
  • 4. Look through the scope and locate the center of this 3 shot group on the target (POI) and make sure that the rifle/scope is NOT moved.
  • 5. WITHOUT moving rifle/scope, adjust crosshairs on the scope to the center of this 3 shot group. The scope crosshairs will now be pointing at the center of the 3 shot group fired by this rifle/scope combo at this sight in range
  • 6. Repeat steps 3, 4, & 5 to confirm or fine tune the accuracy of the scope adjustment.
 
If it's like a Yong Heng compressor, most likely the high side piston ring ( carbon ring) is worn causing blow by. It's does not like to run above 65 deg C. I don't use the recirculating pump anymore, I run a straight hose from the faucet and just let it drain to the lawn.
I'm using a 40 gal tote filled with 20 gal of distilled water , and some Royal purple purple Ice , and antifreeze in that water. I'm using Seco Lube 500 oil , and watch the temp Closely. Even when I filled my 6.8L it never got hotter than 122 °F. I would have thought that it would have lasted more than 4 months after all it is rated to fill a 6.8L I'll pull it apart , and inspect it though.
What oil do you use in the YH.
 
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I'm using a 40 gal tote filled with 20 gal of distilled water , and some Royal purple purple Ice , and antifreeze in that water. I'm using Seco Lube 500 oil , and watch the temp Closely. Even when I filled my 6.8L it never got hotter than 122 °F. I would have thought that it would have lasted more than 4 months after all it is rated to fill a 6.8L I'll pull it apart , and inspect it though.
What oil do you use in the YH.
Forgot to tell you to check the one way check valve 1st, if it doesn't seat good, it can back flow to the low side too. The high pressure piston and seal ass'y was like 14 buck from eBay.
 
On the topic of 3D printing, almost done with my prototype impact buttstock to add SubMOA buttpad/hook so I can turn my impact into a WFTF rig.
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Very nice. What model 3D printer are you using and what software is used to create things like this? This looks to another hobby I'm interested in getting into.
 
Very nice. What model 3D printer are you using and what software is used to create things like this? This looks to another hobby I'm interested in getting into.
Sorry I did not want to high jack your question to Qball, but i cant help it.

Pay once - Cry once sorry I learned the hard way myself my Bambu Lab is printer number 4 - And already now after one and a half year it is my overall cheapest printer, and by far the fastest, best printing and most reliable. The previous printers needed upgrades to perform better and before you know it you have spent more money on a printer that never comes close to a Bambu Lab.

My Bambu Lab printer allowed me to changed the way I design stuff.
Since i bought this printer I never have used Brim - not even when printing ABS.

Only one printer to consider - Bambu Lab P1S Combu with AMS system.
You will never look back - And remember the AMS system is important ... not only for changing colours but more to be able to print another filament type for the support interface layer. Look here at the cut out for the barrel. The body is printed in Petg. Since Petg and PLA does not bond well together the two top layers of support is printed with PLA with 0.0mm gap. It means that i can easily remove the support - and the supported area will look like this.
The change of filament will be done automatically in the AMS 4 spool holder. And you there will be a little waste of material everytime it changes filaments. But i guess the cost for like this is 3-4 cent for a magazine like below.

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Software for a beginner - Hmm its a challenge if you are at ground zero in 3d and design experience.
But Autodesk Fusion 360 can be downloaded in a free home user version - This can do everything you need - and it is possible to learn how to make designs from idea to finished model only from watching tutorials on Youtube.
You can always start learning 3d design by yourself before buying a printer. It is fun and you get a good feeling when you can spin your first model on the screen.

Other beginners start by using Tinkercad - but with that you are very limited, and all knowledge you learn will be wasted, if you want to learn Fusion 360 or another serious 3d Cad programme.
 
Today I put my dead head test plug in my Tuxing Compressor it would only fill to 3,000.😡 I'm seeking help under a post with the exact same problem.
The red in the frown face is not anger it is heat I live in Tucson Arizona 103°F out. Lol
Wonder in that hot thin air the compressor just gives it up .. lol