Westhunter WHI 4-16x50mm FFP Elevation Issue

[Ezana4CE]

Set up this scope on a Bulldog the other day and went out to sight it in yesterday.

I used a folding table, bipod, and rear bag to sight my scope in at 25 yards. Below is the target.

The first or shot was pretty low. I turned the dial the wrong way and the second shot didn’t hit the target. After making adjustments you can see the second shot (actually the third shot, but second shot that hit the target) rose a bit. I think by the fourth shot I was just about on center. It started raining a couple of times so I was in and outside trying to get sighted in.


My issue is once I got around 25-35 (tenths of a mil) on the elevation dial it appears that the reticle stopped responding. So turning the turret any further didn’t move the reticle to get my zero exactly where wanted it. As you can see, my shots are hitting low and to the right. The couple that hit higher occurred after I physically moved the gun.


I’d also like to note that I also used a torque wrench to tighten the rings and set it just below 15 inch/lbs. I tightened the screws until they felt snug I didn’t push the wrench to its set limit. I saw no recommended specs for the amount of torque used on these rings and scope in the instruction manual. Does anyone have any idea why it seems the scope ran out of elevation? I will get it back outside this evening since it appears the weather has cleared up, but in the meantime input is appreciated.

 

[Spike_9]

I am running the same scope on my Throne and haven't ran into those issues even at 10 yards. I am using medium rings. If you are using high or extra high rings, you will run out of adjustment quickly due to the increased height over bore that bullpups tend to have. 

 

[Peskådot671]

What's the total elevation in mils for that scope? Also, after you zeroed it, how many more mils up do you have left? Most scopes, unless you spend more, don't track true especially towards the limits of the elevation scale. If the Bulldog doesn't have any MOA/incline built in, I would suggest an aftermarket rail riser or rings with at least 20 MOA to give you more elevation.

 

[DesertSilver]

Have you tried swopping the rings front to back? If that doesn't help try shimming the rear scope ring up about.005 - .010. as has been said the scope sits so far above the barrel bore it will be hard to compensate. Seeings how it's a pcp you don't need to tighten the clamps a lot for the scope to not move.

 

[Ezana4CE]

What's the total elevation in mils for that scope? Also, after you zeroed it, how many more mils up do you have left?  Most scopes, unless you spend more, don't track true especially towards the limits of the elevation scale. If the Bulldog doesn't have any MOA/incline built in, I would suggest an aftermarket rail riser or rings with at least 20 MOA to give you more elevation.

@peskadot671 I have no idea what the total elevation is for this scope. I looked and didn’t see it listed in the manual unless I missed it. I checked the Amazon page where I purchased it and didn’t see the info there either. I’ll take a little more time later this evening to see what I can find. I haven’t gotten it zeroed. The photo of the target is as close as I’ve come to zero. The slightly low shots are where I ran out of elevation.

I actually like that the objective bell is close to the shroud without a riser rail. I thought it was more desirable to mount a scope this way. I simply used the high rings that came with the scope.

I have a riser rail that I can add. Thanks for the suggestion. What I’ve found most frustrating in this instance is that the turret continued to turn, but the reticle stopped responding. In the past I’ve had an issue of running out of “clicks” to where either a turret would turn no more or I could literally feel the tension in it and know that the turret had reached its limit. With this one it turns and clicks as if there’s more room for adjustment. 

 

[Ripper]

I have a habit of tapping the adjustment to reticle with the butt of my screwdriver every time I make an adjustment. That’s something I learned years ago from powder burner shooting. I know everybody doesn’t do that but I have had a couple scopes years ago that just wouldn’t respond all the time I made an adjustment.But I would believe your problem is What was already mentioned about being too high over the bore.

 

[L.Leon]

Like one poster said, you’re going to need to shim the scope. Typically the rear ring...

 

[Ezana4CE]

Gave it another shot, same result. Tried making adjustments and tapping the turret after turning it. That didn’t work. I checked my riser rail and it doesn’t have any built in MOA according to the packaging so I didn’t try using it. Is simply placing the scope on a riser enough or is shimming the rear ring the only way to correct the problem? This is the first time I’ve encountered this issue. Thanks for the advice. 

 

[Peskådot671]

Having it mounted as low on the rail as you can while getting a good cheek weld would actually bring your POI up. The best solution is to get either a picatinny rail riser with at least 20 MOA built in, a pair of adjustable scope rings, or a single piece scope mount with fixed MOA built in. Your best bet is to get a once piece scope mount with added MOA built in. There will be less weight to deal with and less screws to tighten. An affordable solution would be to get the picatinny rail riser with MOA built in. I personally don't care for shimming scope rings. Do a search for "picatinny rail riser MOA" on Amazon and you'll see several offerings with most in the $20 price range.

 

[JungleShooter]

Dave,

you probably have this already, the adjustable Scope Mounting Table.

The table shows for comparion: many models, with different heights, and different capabilities to give your more elevation adjustment range on the top so you can dial out to far and even extreme long ranges.

Matthias



Attachments:

Scope Mounting Table

View attachment SCOPE Mounting Table.1653550999.pdf

 

[Ezana4CE]

I had the option send return this scope since I purchased through Amazon and that’s what I did. The instruction manual is vague and certain specs were difficult to locate. However, I’ve been busy and didn’t want to take the time to doing anything extra to rig up a solution for a new product since I don’t have adjustable high rings. Lesson learned. Thanks again for the suggestions and advice.

I found this strange as well…

…but no specs. 

 

[Spike_9]

The high rings and the not having enough adjustment is why this didn't work out I would treat yourself to something really nice like the Arken optics. You will have more than enough adjustment and clarity. The 4-16 scope has a wider field of view over the 6-24 scope. The only downside of the Arken it is on the heavier side and it will only focus down to 25 yards. 

 

[JimD]

I think I have that scope on my Avenger. It has normally been fine but once the POI shifted an inch for no reason. No adjustments. But after I rezero'd it held. But now I wonder if it will do it again. It has a ton of features for the price (mine has the christmas tree recticle) but I'm a bit leery with the build quality.

I zero'd a Primary Air 4-16x44 yesterday. I bought it for a P35 in 177 but it has not arrived yet. I use one piece quick release mounts (from West Hunter) on my P35s so I pulled the PA 4-14x44 my 25 caliber normally wears and put on the 4-16. I had to increase elevation over an inch at 25 yards. It moved linearly for awhile but then there was a point where it didn't seem to want to move. But a few more clicks and it moved and I got it zero'd. I do not consider this lack of linearity a fatal flaw in a fairly inexpensive scope. So I plan to keep my new Primary Air 4-16. It's a good buy in this magnification, about $180 with flip up covers. Once it moved, it seemed to move a lot then settled down - like it was stuck a little. I do not remember my West Hunter doing this but it may have. 

I did not shim my new 4-16 but my other three PCP scopes have Hawke shims in their rings to add 25 moa. Seem to work well. If you want to shoot your PCP at long range and the rail is not tilted I think they are a good deal (I do not see long range shooting in my 177s future).

 

[KatoKevin454]

make a shim from an Aluminum can and insert it into the bottom of the back scope ring, make several just in case, adjust and shoot, Quick and easy.

 

[RM.510bigbore]

West hunter makes nice adjustable rings on eBay for $30.00. They are well built and will give you all the extra moa to sight in at a 100 yards if you want. They are like FX no limit rings just heavier.

 

[Ezana4CE]

After thinking about it a bit more, I did run into a similar issue with a Primary Arms scope that I grabbed in a hurry to mount on a rifle to test before buying. After mounting it, shooting a few shots, and while trying to zero that scope it ran out of elevation. At the time I thought it was because I hadn’t reset the turrets from the previous rifle it was on. That member asked if I had adjustable rings. So again I see the need to have some of these. I’d rather use adjustable rings than shim my regular rings. I’m still learning thanks for all of the replies. 

@Reedmosser Thanks for that information. 

 

[Peskådot671]

For future reference, one thing to start looking for when purchasing your next airgun is making sure that the scope rail has at least 20 MOA built into the rail. You'll have more options in using the scope rings of your choice without having to use adjustable ones. Also, when choosing a scope, look for ones with higher elevation adjustments.

 

[EPG]

I wouldn’t recommend Arken scopes for air guns - for the very reasons mentioned - 25 yards minimum parallax adjustment and very heavy weight. I have an Arken, it’s really designed for centerfire rifles. I’d recommend an Athlon Argos or Athlon Talos BTR FFP scope - plenty of elevation adjustment, very good glass (slightly better glass than my Arken), lifetime warranty and focuses to 10 yards (Not all Athlon scope models go down to 10 yards - but the ones I mentioned do). For very long distances out past 100 yards, you may need a 20 MOA rail or shim your rear scope ring.