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Western Airguns Rattler .357

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unpollo2 said:
yes the Rattler (and LCS) have bottle systems just like the FX pcp. you can remove or swap bottles just like a paintball marker, but each bottle needs a special connection adapter that has an internal valve.

i wouldn't pay $200 for a bigger bottle. take the 580cc stock and buy another 580cc bottle with the adapter and now you have hot swappable total air of 1160cc. swapping takes less than a minute.
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700cc bottle the way to go after tuning up since shots are decreased!
 
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ChRiSiS said:
That may be a reasonable conclusion to draw from the potential event, but lets get real: If people are being killed by airgun toting idiots then of course there will be a reaction. It will not matter one bit if it is a semi automatic Rattler, or an Impact, or a Texan, or a Daisy.

This is a behavioral issue, not a “Powerful”, “Fully Semi-Automatic” (!) Airgun issue. It is why WE must be responsible in our actions and our behaviors, and not tolerate irresponsible behavior. Complaining about the tool being too powerful is irrelevant. The “Tool” doesn’t make one do stupid or dangerous things. If a .357 airgun is too powerful for your suburban backyard then DON’T SHOOT IT IN YOUR BACKYARD!

”The (air)gun made me do it” ain’t ever going to be a good excuse or defense.

Chris
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Amen!!!
 
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Hornclayton said:
Its the second time. It was short tight fitting hollowpoints both times. If the rear of the slug sticks out enought to rub during a hand cycling dont use them. They should be slightly receded into the mag well. Except pellets they dont have the same issues. I use fx .35 pellets for bulk ammo and hight arc hunters. Polimags are good also. If you have a jamb get in touch i can givr you some important pointers since its disassembly of half the gun to remove a jamb. Do not shoot again if it jambs whatever you do and you will know when it does cause it basically looks like my beards upside down after. Eardrum nearly blown.....
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My rattler 35 has been great. Until it decided to stop cycling the mag. I always push my pellets and slugs in a d have had great luck with the rifle slug series powder coated slugs 129g. There was only a couple times it didn't want to push the slug all the way thru so it skipped rotation maybe 3 times. Terry at FOX said to degass and reset the hammer. But that's all he said. I assume degassing can be done by loosening the guages ? Then what ? How is the hammer reset ? Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers to all
 
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Ratsalad said:
My rattler 35 has been great. Until it decided to stop cycling the mag. I always push my pellets and slugs in a d have had great luck with the rifle slug series powder coated slugs 129g. There was only a couple times it didn't want to push the slug all the way thru so it skipped rotation maybe 3 times. Terry at FOX said to degass and reset the hammer. But that's all he said. I assume degassing can be done by loosening the guages ? Then what ? How is the hammer reset ? Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers to all
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PS. It still fires fine as long as I manually rotate the mag
 
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Ratsalad said:
PS. It still fires fine as long as I manually rotate the mag
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I know a few of us with Sidewinders (which are closely related) have had the same issue, and it ended up being a broken part - but without a parts diagram it's hard to point it out (I hate when manufacturers don't release a parts diagram). I'd suggest calling the shop you bought it from, or AoA. On mine, it was something I was able to replace myself when they sent me the replacement part, so I did not have to send the gun back. But on the Rattler the same part could be internal . . .
 
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Ratsalad said:
My rattler 35 has been great. Until it decided to stop cycling the mag. I always push my pellets and slugs in a d have had great luck with the rifle slug series powder coated slugs 129g. There was only a couple times it didn't want to push the slug all the way thru so it skipped rotation maybe 3 times. Terry at FOX said to degass and reset the hammer. But that's all he said. I assume degassing can be done by loosening the guages ? Then what ? How is the hammer reset ? Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers to all
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Its hammerless so that is likely not gonna fix this. To degas if your bottle is valved just twist it off but dont go slow or the heat can destroy your bottle valve. then it would be non removable again! after removing you can shoot it down then loosen the guages to ensure the air is out.
It could be a sizing issue on ammo to be honest. Mine has a mag cylinder that is slightly different size and sure enough i marked it and it is likely to reveal poor ammo choices. I put the caliper in the cylinders then look at ammo also and I found theres a small tolerance if the back slug band is to tight.
Another reason thats easy to rule out is your barrel position may be to loose allowing a gap that looses pressure or its to tight and it interferes with cycling.
Coated slugs ussually do well in nitride coated barrels. my bushbuck like 45 acp bullets from missouri bullet co. The coating on the slugs with the barrel treatment both act like lube. The coated slugs run like 30fps faster same grain weight.
Reach out any time and my contact info is online at PrecisionSportAirguns.com
 
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Yes its definately happened to me several times. Theres several reasons it can happen but number one is that the ammo is jamming the mag so dont use it if its too tight or loose choose something else. other reasons can be the barrel position is to loose allowing it to loose power in the gap and not push out the projectile properly or the barrel is too tight causing a misscyle due to impeding the mag.
bulletmatsu said:
Anyone had this problem. Went to shoot targets on a full tank when upon pulling the trigger over half the pressure came out of the revolving cylinder and after taking out the pellets 2 of my hollow points were chipped in the fro
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Hornclayton said:
Yes its definately happened to me several times. Theres several reasons it can happen but number one is that the ammo is jamming the mag so dont use it if its too tight or loose choose something else. other reasons can be the barrel position is to loose allowing it to loose power in the gap and not push out the projectile properly or the barrel is too tight causing a misscyle due to impeding the mag.
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Wow, thanks for the reply. I know I had some ammo in it for about a week. Could it be that it expanded in the heat? Do you think I need to send it in for repair or is it still good to go on shooting? Exterior looks fine.
 
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bulletmatsu said:
Wow, thanks for the reply. I know I had some ammo in it for about a week. Could it be that it expanded in the heat? Do you think I need to send it in for repair or is it still good to go on shooting? Exterior looks fine.
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Its perfectly fine most likely, people get very trigger happy on sending these in. but i have unjammed both of mine several times. Now that i have the correct barrel position marked and i dont play with odd ammo i never have any issues. theres a video about marking barrel position on youtube at
 
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Hornclayton said:
Its perfectly fine most likely, people get very trigger happy on sending these in. but i have unjammed both of mine several times. Now that i have the correct barrel position marked and i dont play with odd ammo i never have any issues. theres a video about marking barrel position on youtube at
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When you’re backing it off after twisting it in, do you go only just by a hair when testing to see if the mag rotates or do you go further than that and by how much?
 
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Bernie7 said:
When you’re backing it off after twisting it in, do you go only just by a hair when testing to see if the mag rotates or do you go further than that and by how much?
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It's just a hair.

Make sure you fully rotate the mag/cylinder too - 14 holes could be fine and you have 1 part of the mag that will catch a little.
 
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elittle1234 said:
The manual says to fill the gun to 250 bar. The gun says 300bar, the bottle says 300bar, the gauge says 300 bar. Anybody try filling their rattler to 300bar? What happened,
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I filled to 250 for a long time then I started filling to 300 and I have had zero issues and no velocity shifts.
I have a .30 and .357 model that are some of the first ones with the aluminum shroud. I dont store them at 300 though.

Clayton Horn
Precision Sport Airguns
 
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Hornclayton said:
I filled to 250 for a long time then I started filling to 300 and I have had zero issues and no velocity shifts.
I have a .30 and .357 model that are some of the first ones with the aluminum shroud. I dont store them at 300 though.

Clayton Horn
Precision Sport Airguns
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You really run things to their max 😁. Have you managed to break the 270 fpe specified upper end? If I recall you ran your plenum pressure really high as well…
 
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