Weihrauch ??
- Thread starter beerthief
- Start date
I don't think you can see if the peep is original, but need more pictures to be sure? The Robert Law peep for the HW30SX was a special order from Williams, made to fit the 13mm dovetail, with a set screw that left a witness mark on the dovetail top. (It's similar to the sight Law had for the FWB120 series, made for a 11.3mm FWB dovetail, maybe stamped "624" if I recall).
Note that OP's gun has a trigger accessory mounted, another feature of the SX model, should also not have a rear sight, should have plug screws filling the breech block holes...
More photos would be helpful
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583245 Manufactured 1975
600000 Manufactured 1976
612502 Manufactured 1976
623997 Manufactured 1976
624554 Manufactured 1976
670138 Manufactured 1977
671143 Manufactured 1977
702045 Manufactured 1979
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cool , looks like my HW30 was made in 1976 , maybe if and when i take the peep sight off il figure when in 1976?
Crony results were 8.64 Ftt @ 478 FPS = 4.6 FPE so a bit low , maybe ill try 7.0 pellet from ELEY
Edit corrections made
Crony results were 8.64 Ftt @ 478 FPS = 4.6 FPE so a bit low , maybe ill try 7.0 pellet from ELEY
Edit corrections made
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You know hw got a deal you enter your sn and get whatever they have on file on a gun .
Id bet it more 76 and some of the forst imports from beeman . I jad a lot on ot ready to post , but ....
Sn starting with "60" is 1976. Then google 1976 hw 30 and ones like yours pop up .
Id bet it more 76 and some of the forst imports from beeman . I jad a lot on ot ready to post , but ....
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this gun might never have been touched , the screw heads look new , under a magnifying glass there is no shiny spots on the head , except for a few very minor scratches in the stock the gun looks new .,
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Have you oiled the seal? MDriskill told me to put a couple drops of silicone oil on mine. Worked great until I got the SM50.
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Being another boring rain day i thought for fun id go shopping gor a new drop in leather seal for a hw30..
Youd think poplar hw there would be somthing or some place like in the UK that had one ..lol...
Crosman , gamo, webly, daisy, bsa, ect bit not a hw except one or 2 for the hw35 with a 30mm tube.. amazing.
Also more info around on the 35 and leather seal.
I did see post on guys going synthetic swap but some said like mycap said was not the power they wanted and went back to leather and fps went right back to spec or better..
www.tapatalk.com
And to be honest i think I'd prefer to keep the gun as original as possible .. that seal is not catastrophe and can be home made..
Matter of fact if i still got that old pair of high top redwing boots around i can use the uppers to cut and try to make one just to see . Them boots use good quality leather and seems just about the right thickness.. hopefully i did not already burn pile them..
Anyway i thinking you got a fun add to experience project to make it as right as rain ..
Youd think poplar hw there would be somthing or some place like in the UK that had one ..lol...
Crosman , gamo, webly, daisy, bsa, ect bit not a hw except one or 2 for the hw35 with a 30mm tube.. amazing.
Also more info around on the 35 and leather seal.
I did see post on guys going synthetic swap but some said like mycap said was not the power they wanted and went back to leather and fps went right back to spec or better..
Weihrauch Owners Club-Back to the Leather Seal Again in HW35
After experimenting for years with O rings and synthetic seals, I finally came full circle. I have a 1976 75th anniversary .177 HW35. I could never qu
www.tapatalk.com And to be honest i think I'd prefer to keep the gun as original as possible .. that seal is not catastrophe and can be home made..
Matter of fact if i still got that old pair of high top redwing boots around i can use the uppers to cut and try to make one just to see . Them boots use good quality leather and seems just about the right thickness.. hopefully i did not already burn pile them..
Anyway i thinking you got a fun add to experience project to make it as right as rain ..
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Like leather boots theres a point and time of any age, use or neglect that even heroics cant pull it through.. like that point of no return... All you can do is what you can till deemed fruitless.
I got to wonder if the older hw30 has a 25mm tube the newer has 26 if you got the 25mm would these work just as good
Archer Airguns parts kit for Chinese Industry Brand and Tech Force air rifles.
Archer Airguns parts kit for Chinese Industry Brand and Tech Force air rifles.
www.archerairguns.com
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In spite of all the nice thing's y'all have said about me - I'm no big expert on the HW 30! But a gun from 1976 likely was indeed an ARH (Air Rifle Headquarters) import with a leather piston seal. If it has 13mm scope grooves, that's very likely one of the ARH special peeps.
Personally, I love leather piston seals. Just keep them lubed and they will last forever and be very consistent - I typically chrono with 15-shot strings, and the smallest standard deviation I ever recorded was with a leather-sealed Diana 27 of about the same age. Yes, you lose a few FPS compared to a plastic seal, but this is negligible on such a small powerplant. And I love those old 30's with the skinny finger-groove stock; the later R7's are nice of course, but to me the old stocks are a more natural fit for the compact, slender action, and better balanced.
Good chamber lubes are the old Beeman Chamber Oil, RWS Chamber Oil, Abbey SM 50, or stiff silicone oil (do NOT overdo the latter, you don't want silicone sloshing around in the action beyond the leather seal). The old Beeman Ultra Lube was re-packaged SM 50, by the way. Judging by the excellent condition of this gun, shooting a few drops of lube through the transfer port will likely do the job, but you can always take the piston out and give the seal a clean and soak in fresh lube if needed.
A more important thing to check on a gun that age is the breech seal. It might be leather, or crumbled plastic. If any doubt about how it's working, just pop in a new one - they are cheap, and it's an easy job.
As far as I know, the HW 30 and R7 have always used the 25mm piston seal, but I am not up on newer examples.
Personally, I love leather piston seals. Just keep them lubed and they will last forever and be very consistent - I typically chrono with 15-shot strings, and the smallest standard deviation I ever recorded was with a leather-sealed Diana 27 of about the same age. Yes, you lose a few FPS compared to a plastic seal, but this is negligible on such a small powerplant. And I love those old 30's with the skinny finger-groove stock; the later R7's are nice of course, but to me the old stocks are a more natural fit for the compact, slender action, and better balanced.
Good chamber lubes are the old Beeman Chamber Oil, RWS Chamber Oil, Abbey SM 50, or stiff silicone oil (do NOT overdo the latter, you don't want silicone sloshing around in the action beyond the leather seal). The old Beeman Ultra Lube was re-packaged SM 50, by the way. Judging by the excellent condition of this gun, shooting a few drops of lube through the transfer port will likely do the job, but you can always take the piston out and give the seal a clean and soak in fresh lube if needed.
A more important thing to check on a gun that age is the breech seal. It might be leather, or crumbled plastic. If any doubt about how it's working, just pop in a new one - they are cheap, and it's an easy job.
As far as I know, the HW 30 and R7 have always used the 25mm piston seal, but I am not up on newer examples.
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Me neather.. i looked at the synthetic seal and seen older 30's 25mm newer 26 so older and leather I just assume the 25mm is used and now like i posted above if a off brand drop in ,25mm leather would do in a pinch or luck out a direct fit..
This post got me interested on what's up on the gun .. maybe ill luck in to one like it but be well/ better briefed on things..
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Then i guess nothing changed. Maybe i misread that discription..?
I guess the easy way out is the synthetic conversation kit .. id sure like to try the make a leather one up install it just to say i done it and done it well.
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The confusion may come from the HW 50 - which DID change from a 25mm seal on the original gun (went out of production over 20 years ago), to 26mm on the current model (originally called the HW 99). The classic old HW 55 target rifle, which was modified from the first HW 50, also has a 25mm seal.
It's my understanding both "50's" have receiver tubes of the same length and diameter, and both have the double cocking links, but they are different Internally. The old gun has the nifty threaded-on rear receiver; the new one has the plugged trigger assembly, giving a longer stroke in addition to the bigger piston.
But sounds like smaller HW 30 has kept the same interior architecture.
It's my understanding both "50's" have receiver tubes of the same length and diameter, and both have the double cocking links, but they are different Internally. The old gun has the nifty threaded-on rear receiver; the new one has the plugged trigger assembly, giving a longer stroke in addition to the bigger piston.
But sounds like smaller HW 30 has kept the same interior architecture.
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My HW30 has the 13 MM rail . I have never seen a leather seal but thought it was more like thick belt leather ?
You could put washers on a bolt and put in a drill /sand to 25mm then sand the leather inbetween the washers ?
If you hold the washer sandwich in a vise you would not have a hole in the middle of the leather .
You could put washers on a bolt and put in a drill /sand to 25mm then sand the leather inbetween the washers ?
If you hold the washer sandwich in a vise you would not have a hole in the middle of the leather .
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It's a cup. I guess i gave links on how to?
I did see using plastic washer sized to help size the leather seal on the piston .
Also the hole is the last thing to do after it dries in your mold . Putting it in earlier it will tare out when the Leather is being stretched into the mold .
Like even though i dont have a gun for one and i find them boots or leather that looks like the right thickness im making one up.
https://www.airgunmagazine.co.uk/features/replacing-a-leaky-piston-seal-with-jonathan-young/
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2007/12/how-to-make-a-leather-piston-seal/
Being my browser dont save history i can't find the one about the inner washer made to help sizing . Pretty much if it feels loose the increase the washer diameter kinda thing.
Man id love to be able hands on this kinda project
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I've made quite a few leather seals for BSA prewars. The Pyramid article above should help you get started. I leave the newly formed seal on the socket and chuck that in the lathe headstock and drill it dead center for the mounting screw with a tailstock chuck and bit.
Here in the fo toe I've mounted the seal on the piston to shave down the seal close before I sand to the final fit. Similar to a urethane seal fit. I'm using a HSS bit to turn the leather actually the same profile I use to cut steel. You should be using HSS on your light lathe. If you don't know how to sharpen HSS profiles you are basically wasting your money and efforts.
You can also chuck the piston rod in a drill and do it all by sanding.
The article suggests an expansion bit to cut the forming hole in the wood block but I use cheap paddle bits.
Many leather seals have a leather backing washer that fits inside the cup. I grind one end of a 3/4 copper coupler sharp and use it as a leather punch to cut a perfect circle for the backer.
(Step 4) I clamp mine with a C clamp
Trimming the seal (step 5) I use a hack saw blade.
You can buy small pieces of leather in the weight you need on eBay for cheap.
hhh
Here in the fo toe I've mounted the seal on the piston to shave down the seal close before I sand to the final fit. Similar to a urethane seal fit. I'm using a HSS bit to turn the leather actually the same profile I use to cut steel. You should be using HSS on your light lathe. If you don't know how to sharpen HSS profiles you are basically wasting your money and efforts.
You can also chuck the piston rod in a drill and do it all by sanding.
The article suggests an expansion bit to cut the forming hole in the wood block but I use cheap paddle bits.
Many leather seals have a leather backing washer that fits inside the cup. I grind one end of a 3/4 copper coupler sharp and use it as a leather punch to cut a perfect circle for the backer.
(Step 4) I clamp mine with a C clamp
Trimming the seal (step 5) I use a hack saw blade.
You can buy small pieces of leather in the weight you need on eBay for cheap.
hhh
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The stock will swap from an older HW50 to a new one. Of course this isn't a 1950's HW50
R8/HW50 top and an HW50/99 with JM stock below
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