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Wax and gun bores
- Thread starter EdCaffreyMS
- Start date
So here is one that I'm thinking of:
maximausa.com
CHAIN WAX
Spray chain lubricant designed to form a long-lasting film that protects in both extremely dry and extremely wet environments. Unique ParaFilm™ formula penetrates deeply, eliminating fling-off and ensuring an effective seal between the chain and the elements. In addition to the durable and...
maximausa.com Upvote 0
Will do. I think I used to use that wax on my motorcycle, 20+ years ago when I had a chain drive.
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Question to you guys that are using some type of wax on your barrels: Is the heat that is generated from a pellet traveling down a barrel high enough to affect the wax coating, as in melting it off? Thanks.
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Heat? Yes there is a touch, IMHO but there's no fire behind the pellet/slug so.....it's the rapid expansion of the air and any friction from the pellet/slug in the barrel. I doubt the sum is greater than a car hood in the sun....which just gave me a thought, and this could be either a breakthrough or flamingly stupid. AND I'm not sure there is a return from it once applied. Wax is slippery but the ceramic car finishes are even more so, it gets into the pores. But I'm wondering to what end, slightly faster pellet speeds? That we have to slow down, which will save some air, or slightly faster slug speeds saving air. Keeping the barrel cleaner or easier cleaning? IF I had the inclination I'd take one of my spare liners and do a before and after test.
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This is going to be a 1st for me, but I also don't think enough heat will be generated. Especially a pellet that only has 2 very small contacts with the barrel. They are not traveling @ 3200 fps. And then you got the air behind it that may cool things down. I'm not going to worry about it.
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Heat? No. You can sit on a bench with a pcp and shoot a hundred shots as fast as you can load and you wont feel any heat on the barrel.
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I dont think heat is generated from the air expanding. Heat is generated when its compressed. Its been argued the temp drops. I dont know if it drops temp but I am pretty sure its not generating heat by expanding.
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Regarding heat, there should be two conflicting sources involved. As the compressed air expands and fills the bore it will have a cooling effect, much like when you discharge an aerosol can or propane cylinder, but also the friction of the pellet being driven through the bore should cause heat.
I’ve only really observed either one when firing CO2 or Freon guns and on those the cooling effect obviously outweighs the heat caused by friction. With a PCP I don’t think I’ve ever noticed the barrel heating up or cooling, but since I’m using shrouded barrels I’m not sure it would be noticeable either way.
Springers should have the opposite effect as the air is compressed at the moment of firing and I know there has been much written about how this affects their efficiency. I imagine any heat generated is partially balanced as the air expands in the bore however.
I’ve only really observed either one when firing CO2 or Freon guns and on those the cooling effect obviously outweighs the heat caused by friction. With a PCP I don’t think I’ve ever noticed the barrel heating up or cooling, but since I’m using shrouded barrels I’m not sure it would be noticeable either way.
Springers should have the opposite effect as the air is compressed at the moment of firing and I know there has been much written about how this affects their efficiency. I imagine any heat generated is partially balanced as the air expands in the bore however.
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I can fit an 800mm barrel sideways in the oven and at 200°F, the carbon fiber and epoxy are not in jeopardy.
The point of the heat is to allow the wax to sweat into the pores, burnishing is fine but my results were better with wax flowing.
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For MC chains, the spray wax is for the internal part of a link. The outter part does not roll much in the drive sprockets.
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chain wax is for chains,,, you want to gum up moderators, well it is your moderator,,, dirty is what it is, a real lead dust collector, but a little more gummy
chain waxes are for lubricating,,, I want a surface sealer to keep the barrel from leading up.
as for hard waxes I follow the instructions on the can, most say lukewarm or out of the sun,,, as canned waxes have petroleum distillates or other solvents that evaporate at room temps.
there is no absolute right-wrong,,, it is your gun to play with and have fun.
has anyone tried Collinite super doublecoat 476s
chain waxes are for lubricating,,, I want a surface sealer to keep the barrel from leading up.
as for hard waxes I follow the instructions on the can, most say lukewarm or out of the sun,,, as canned waxes have petroleum distillates or other solvents that evaporate at room temps.
there is no absolute right-wrong,,, it is your gun to play with and have fun.
has anyone tried Collinite super doublecoat 476s
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We use to freak people out when we waxed a new hardwood floor.
We applied the wax then hit it with a torch. Then waxed again and buffed.
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