I purchased a VEVOR air compressor exactly two years ago, have used it twice. I went to use it the other day. I attached it to my gun, Made sure the bleeder was closed. I turned it on, let it warm up, then turned on the compressor, in about 15 seconds everything shut down. Has not started since. Any thoughts of what it might be?
Vevor air compressor
- Thread starter ejplinkerton
- Start date
Thanks appreciate the picture. I can now see for sure that the one I looked at is actually a fuse (attached) or I think they call it an inline fuse. The wire through the middle of the fuse looks to be in place, so that may not be the culprit. Another gentlemen directed me to where I can buy another one, it p me off that something so slightly used is broken. I am going to think about it, and thanks again for the help!
Upvote 0
Probably "power factor" effect at play and they sized things for average power instead of peak in the compression cycle. My supply was 40 amps, I linked a cheap 50 amp, beyond that its more than extra dollar or two.
Upvote 0
I recommend checking voltage at both ends of the fuse. Having been bitten by the "looked OK" bug....
Upvote 0
You have it ... the exact model I have. Thanks for the info definitely appreciated. I plan to visit a fellow who does this kind of work ... haven't needed to look him up in a while. May pay him a visit. I'll get back to you.I can't find my Thermister repair post so will do again. If something is not clear or more information needed, let me know. The more patient and helpful we are, IMO, the better off we all are.
I will show the thermister photos first, then find some better of the fuse, it needed.
Here's the blurb:
My Nuong compressor's power supply failed (*The Nupong is a clone of GX CS1 and a zillion other shoebox compressors).
I have a spare power supply, but of course I wanted to fix the problem.
A lucky flash of red showed that the NTC 5D-15 negative thermister in the input stage was failing.
I ordered these off Amazon, so will only need to remove the circuit board and solder in a new one.
Let's see if crowing early leads to glory or egg on my face.
BELLIFFY 5d-15 Negative Temperature Thermistor 20pcs Kit Electric Appliance Temperature Sensor Thermistor Resistors Thermal Resistance Set
I have a short video, showing the other side of the fried one, but the one in my spare shows the thermister better.
The fuse is circled in orange in the second photo. It is to the right of the fried thermister.
I suspect that the thermister will be a failure point.
When I convert one of these power supplies for other uses, I often manually blow the Buss (glass) fuse and solder leads to an external ATC or Mini Fuse holder in order to place the fuse outside of the case. I have encountered only one or two blown fuses in 10+ years of using these power supplies, so they aren't a high failure item. If I recall correctly, these power supplies are self limiting in terms of voltage and current.
The little potentiometer with its yellow dial is to the left of the wire terminal strip, it adjusts the output voltage which can often be increased to nearly 15 VDC. Electric motors tend to like higher voltage so I generally try to have the voltage in the 14.6 VDC range, which is typical motor vehicle charging voltage.
Please let us know how you make out, and if there is anything more we can provide.
If you need to remove the circuit board from the case, the power transistors, or might be MOSFETs (can't recall off hand) are clamped to the heat sinks. If that's not obvious, let me know.
View attachment 566714View attachment 566715
Upvote 0
6 amp NTC thermistor seems kinda low for ~30 amps to flow through it. All they should do is slowly ramp up power (changes from like 1 ohm to 0.01 ohm) so the caps dont blow on powerup.
Upvote 0
To say that my understanding of these power supplies is limited, would be a massive understatement.
The thermistor is on the input side, the 120 VAC feed which has a 3 amp fuse, so the 6 amp Thermistor should be more than adequate, correct?
I don't understand the "~30 mps flow" reference as that's the output (DC ~12 volt side), but the thermistor is on the input (120VAC) side, correct?
I'm looking for education on the subject, not disputing your conclusions.
Do you recommend a larger amperage thermistor?
Upvote 0
Youre right. The 6 amp seems more reasonable.
Can just bypass it with a jumper wire until the caps fail. 8 amp thermistor might prolong its life. No point in buying a solder kit for a $20 supply.
If it fails, buy or build bigger. Can use an old PC supply for the cost of some wire nuts.
Last edited:
Upvote 0