I recently bought a used WC mk3 22 cal. Trying to shoot fx atomic 15.9grn. I can’t get the WC to shoot past 800fps. I’ve increased the reg from 80 to 150 and adj hammer accordingly. Also swapped from 500 to 600mm…no change. Also put a power plenum on and still no change. I switch the 600mm from pellet to slug and still no change. Any suggestions what it could be? Thanks
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FX Velocity won’t increase.
- Thread starter dddelacru81
- Start date
Are you blowing air out anywhere? Breach seal? Valve pin seal? Anything blocking the transfer port? When you say "adjusted hammer accordingly" what do you mean? Increasing pressure and just increasing hammer spring can lead to little increase in velocity and a lot of air going out the barrel after the projectile is gone. However, just by swapping to a longer barrel you should have seen some velocity increase.
Keep us informed on when you figure out the issue.
Cheers,
Greg
Keep us informed on when you figure out the issue.
Cheers,
Greg
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Thnx Greg. Yeah I would increase the Reg and start the hammer wheel on 1 and work my way to 7. I also messed with the micro adjuster too but at a Reg pressure from 125-150, no matter how much or how little hammer, it never goes above 800fps. Yes it does get slower but seems to hit a ceiling. Swapping the barrel also did not allow me to get any more in fps even at the exact same settings. I don’t hear any loss in pressure. The gun is quiet and I don’t see any drop in air pressure even if don’t shoot it for a couple days. To me, and I’m still very new to this, it doesn’t seem like I am getting the ‘higher’ pulse of air. The gun doesn’t really change in pitch and/or sound. I will check the transfer port and replace the orings per suggestion. Thank you
As side note. I do own an impact mk3&2 and I have no issues tuning them or changing velocities depending on what I am shooting.
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The 22s have a hammer weight that is too light to serve up increases in speed beyond 120 bar. I’ll bet if you go back to 110bar, and discover the full range of speeds available by adjusting from lowest HST to the highest (where the bolt refuses to cock), you’ll find a higher speed peak.
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When you say adjusted the hammer are you just turning the power wheel or actually adjusting the internal hammer tension ?
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Why do you think that increasing preassure of regulator will give you more fps????
Decrease it to 80-100.
There, try with the hammer.
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More preassure on regulator means that the hammer need more power to open the valve at shot. So.... With same force of hammer, at more preassure in regulator, less fps !!!!!!!!!
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The gun came to me with reg at 80. Took a few shows and checked the velocity from 1 to 7 and it read 550 to 780ish. So I jumped to 100 on the reg and that’s where is started hitting a ceiling. I could have just adjusted too quickly so I will try that today after work. Thanks
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If your hammer weight is sufficient to fully open the valve at a given pressure (say 100bar), you will see a curve in speeds from low (at minimum hammer) rising to a peak as you increase hammer. It will then plateau and possibly reduce in speed if the hammer starts hitting too hard and fast. If you increase reg pressure, more hammer is needed to get to the peak. At 150bar with a light hammer, you can only reach the first section of the velocity curve. In your case, your goals are modest and you won’t need to change to a heavier hammer, but with that hammer, you can’t take advantage of higher reg pressures. You just need to put the time in to map out the curve at say 100-110bar. The optimal goal is to find the reg pressure and hammer setting that gives your desired pellet speed at 95% on the curve, so if you desired 900fps, you would be looking to find the reg pressure that has a peak speed of 950-960. You then dial the hammer back a bit to get to 900 and that gives an efficient tune at your desired speed.
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Note that you can’t explore the power curve by using the wheel alone. This video gives detailed instructions on the use of the HST screw to find the peak hammer setting:
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Try these settings 95 Bar on the regulator, Macro 7, The full length of the hammer adjuster measured outside of the gun is 20.2mm and a 18.1 grain (what the gun originally shot from the factory) should be around 900FPS.
If this doesn't work, I'd pull the hammer spring and weight to verify they are the correct 56mm and 11-gram weight. If those are correct you could have a bad valve pin or valve house.
If this doesn't work, I'd pull the hammer spring and weight to verify they are the correct 56mm and 11-gram weight. If those are correct you could have a bad valve pin or valve house.
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It is clear that the efficient preassure of regulator for that rifle mis below 100. Try 95, then 90, then 85. Around there you will find the higher fps that rifle can give.
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I think he simply hasn’t increased the internal hammer spring adjuster. On your power wheel there is a spot that says adjust. Turn it to that and insert a 1.5 mm Allen key and give the screw in there a half turn counter clockwise. Then turn the power wheel back to 7 and see if you get more speed.
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ddd,
You are getting some good advice here. In particular you should look at videos which talk about tuning the Wildcat and/or the Maverick. They have the same system. It helps to understand some basic relationships between the reg pressure and hammer impact. If you increase the reg pressure it takes more energy for the hammer to open the valve. Once the valve is open you get a shot of higher pressure air, but the valve also will want to close quickly. Unlike the Impact which can adjust the spring tension which assists the valve in closing, the Mav/Wildcat is stuck with a fixed spring rate. So really nothing you can do on that end other than changing reg pressure.
On the other side, when you cock the rifle you fix the from end of the hammer at a set point because the trigger sear is holding it. How much compression (and therefore how much energy the hammer will have when it hits the valve) is adjusted by moving the rear end of the hammer spring (the spring carrier. Adjusting the Internal Hammer Spring out one turn will increase the spring compression by 0.5mm. Adjusting up 1 click on the PW does exactly the same thing (though it is by decreasing the depth of the groove in the Power wheel). So that means the max you can adjust the spring compression only using the power wheel is 3.5mm. All the way tight on the IHS leaves a 2 mm head past the spring carrier. At PW 7 the groove in the PW is flush with the back, so that means you get 2mm of compression. You can screw the IHS out 8mm. So you get way more adjustment from it than the PW. So you really need to adjust both to tune the Wildcat.
I hope this helps. The videos are great for a procedure for tuning, but you should take the PW off (don't lose the ball bearing and spring under it) and pull ut the spring carrier, the spring and hammer weight just to get an idea of what is happening.
Cheers,
Greg
You are getting some good advice here. In particular you should look at videos which talk about tuning the Wildcat and/or the Maverick. They have the same system. It helps to understand some basic relationships between the reg pressure and hammer impact. If you increase the reg pressure it takes more energy for the hammer to open the valve. Once the valve is open you get a shot of higher pressure air, but the valve also will want to close quickly. Unlike the Impact which can adjust the spring tension which assists the valve in closing, the Mav/Wildcat is stuck with a fixed spring rate. So really nothing you can do on that end other than changing reg pressure.
On the other side, when you cock the rifle you fix the from end of the hammer at a set point because the trigger sear is holding it. How much compression (and therefore how much energy the hammer will have when it hits the valve) is adjusted by moving the rear end of the hammer spring (the spring carrier. Adjusting the Internal Hammer Spring out one turn will increase the spring compression by 0.5mm. Adjusting up 1 click on the PW does exactly the same thing (though it is by decreasing the depth of the groove in the Power wheel). So that means the max you can adjust the spring compression only using the power wheel is 3.5mm. All the way tight on the IHS leaves a 2 mm head past the spring carrier. At PW 7 the groove in the PW is flush with the back, so that means you get 2mm of compression. You can screw the IHS out 8mm. So you get way more adjustment from it than the PW. So you really need to adjust both to tune the Wildcat.
I hope this helps. The videos are great for a procedure for tuning, but you should take the PW off (don't lose the ball bearing and spring under it) and pull ut the spring carrier, the spring and hammer weight just to get an idea of what is happening.
Cheers,
Greg
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The .22s were mostly stock with a 7 gram weight. The 11 was in the .25. That being said, I bought the 11 gram for both of mine to give a wider range for the reg. One other thing to check would be to make sure the cocking arm link has not slipped. If it has a stock probe in particular it could be covering the transfer port.
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Thanks for all the feedback and ideas. The solution was the pellet probe was not aligned. Once that was fixed, at 100 reg and 7 on the hammer, the pellet went 1000+ fps. I ended up putting the reg at 90 and my range is 750-950. Plenty for my needs. Thanx again!
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