I'm trying to disassemble a valve can anyone tell me if the black thingy is an oring or something else? What's the best way to unscrew this thing without gouging or scratching it up? Any more orings inside of it?
Other Valve disassembly, orings?
- Thread starter IMADMAN
- Start date
Finally got it apart. Trying to figure out if any orings go inside? I ended up digging out the black ring. Is it an oring or some type of nylon washer. It was super hard and came out in chunks so Im not sure if that was a dried up crusty oring or something else??
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I hope that it's not a special ring, although an O-ring can often be substituted.
Just a general comment because I have no clue about that specific component. O-rings can deteriorate and distort to the dimensions in which they are contained. On the other hand, there are square-shaped O-rings that a hydraulics or other supplier may be able to identify and provide. In my experience, square O-rings are not common. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to try a conventional O-ring to see how it suffices.
Just a general comment because I have no clue about that specific component. O-rings can deteriorate and distort to the dimensions in which they are contained. On the other hand, there are square-shaped O-rings that a hydraulics or other supplier may be able to identify and provide. In my experience, square O-rings are not common. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to try a conventional O-ring to see how it suffices.
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Yes, the valve assembly pictured is immediately recognizable as a QB7x. The O-ring is a size -113. Buna-N 70 durometer is good.
Yes um, QB. I cant see it too well but your valve stem doesn't look Too good? Possible mick or dent at 10:00 (and as old as the rest) that may well not burnish out. Might want to source a new one. Last I knew Mountain Air sold nice nylon (other?) valve stem for them. Also give it a little boost.
Post up your results when finished.
You do know upon reassemble you leave the front half of the valve losse untill installed then tighten the last snug bit once in place? Just trying to help.
John
Post up your results when finished.
You do know upon reassemble you leave the front half of the valve losse untill installed then tighten the last snug bit once in place? Just trying to help.
John
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x2 on John’s advice regarding the poppet. Even if it still seals okay, a plastic poppet would be an improvement over the soft OEM one, especially for a big bore like that. Much easier to knock it open. It would allow you to significantly reduce the hammer spring tension, making the cocking effort more pleasant and improving the shot cycle.
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Sorry to be confusing. The valve shown is in a .177
I'm also trying to work on a .45 but waiting to see if the penetrating oil will loosen the broken shaft, so I can pull that valve out.
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