Have 2 (.22&.25) one synthetic stock, one wood- Wondering value for insurance purposes & possible re-sale excellent condition.
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Value of BSA Lonestar
- Thread starter be4meliz
- Start date
I think when they stopped making them AOA was selling them for under $400. So in the used marked value starts at about 75% and goes down depending on condition. You can basically buy a refurbished BSA repeater for $299. The Lonestar being a single shot does not "appeal" to most of today's buyers.
Any chance you have a extra stock laying around? I've got a Techstar and want to dress it up with a stock from a lonestar.
Any chance you have a extra stock laying around? I've got a Techstar and want to dress it up with a stock from a lonestar.
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Unless they have been abused in some subtle fashion you have what could be two of the most accurate over the counter air guns so far made.
Before you get rid of them you owe it to yourself to wring them out with JSB pellets; or get someone you know to be an excellent airgun shot to shoot them in fair conditions to 50, 75 and 100 yd. At least, google for results from BSA Lonestars. Then decide what you may do. Regrets are sometimes forever. ... Kind regards, Harry.
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Harry, I totally agree with you ( I used to follow your long range adventures on another forum quite a few years back) & is one of the reasons I bought these-& not planning on selling them- I was just trying to get value for home owners insurance. Good to hear from you as you encouraged me in the pursuit of extreme ranges with air rifles.
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Bigtinboat-When I bought the .22, the previous owner BUTCHERED the wood stock(cut off pistol grip to flat- but then I got the .25 & it came with wood & synthetic stocks, so put the wood on .22.
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They're worth as much as they will bring. For most around here, they don't realize what you have which is some of the finest barrels ever made for an airgun. Outside of the barrels, no offense intended, but the platform isn't anything special. BSA no longer makes barrels in the same fashion so they are rare and highly sought after in some circles.
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zx10wall- Agreed- the barrels are amazing- shot count terrible-the action British overkill (cocking arm using two adjustable rails into bracket that pushes cocking pin) separate lever to open breech & load , but VERY ACCURATE!
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You lucked out getting 2 stocks. My issue is that the TechStar came with open sights so the comb is way too low for scope use. I have to use a comb riser.
I put a regulator in my Techstar (and did a few tweaks) and I'm getting 29-30 shots just over 900fps with the 18.1's. If you haven't done so already make a blast tamer for it. Works well to increase shot count and quiet the gun.
I put a regulator in my Techstar (and did a few tweaks) and I'm getting 29-30 shots just over 900fps with the 18.1's. If you haven't done so already make a blast tamer for it. Works well to increase shot count and quiet the gun.
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Was looking into blast tamer, but don't quite get the concept & is it an addon for purchase or do you need to fabricate (kinda sounds like a depinger)
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I made one for my BSA Ultra SE. It’s worth it. I used a spoke off a mini bike. My Ultra already had the aluminum block for the HDD or blast tamer. I used a spring from one of my micro r/c cars shocks. Once installed, I shot the gun through the chronograph and kept increasing the preload on the spring until my velocity went up. I backed it off a little and it’s been happily ever after ever since.
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You fabricate it. Basically it's a rod with a spring and a hook (which fits around the cocking pin on the hammer). The hook is putting pressure on the cocking pin in a direction towards the valve. Now this might seems counter-productive for hammer bounce but it works. The hook is a tiny fraction of a second behind the hammer moving forward. When you have the correct spring pressure the hook will hit the hammer pin just after it (the hammer) strikes the valve. This stops the hammer from moving rearward and into the hammer spring which would be able to propel it again into the valve creating the "bounce", if the hook weren't holding it forward. On my Techstar one side of the MMC rod guides is a double. I used the unused slot to hold mine. I'll get a pic when I can. All you need are a short piece of rod, a small spring (I used 2 ball point pen springs) and a "c" clip the diameter of the rod.
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Hope those two pics help. Had my gun apart to replace my fill port o-ring so me seeing your post was perfect timing.
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Vetmx- Think I got it -kinda works like a damper on a car shock- hammer spring hits -hammer travels back(rebound), lighter spring & rod absorb so it doesn't travel back into hammer spring & go hit pin again- Now got to tear my stock off, cause What your calling MMC rod guide , I believe my .22 & .25 each have 2 (rods from cocking end)So now what? its a clamp that holds the cocking lever(times 2 in my case) & in turn 1 bar to cocking pin. So now , I need to improvise? Need to look @ Lonestar setup- But same as your gun minus a blank spot @ MMC clamp. And what size rod do you use? for c-clip (need to cut groove to hold)?Thanks for the info
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I didn’t use a c-clip. Mine is threaded so the tension is adjustable. I just used what size rod slid smoothly through that aluminum block. You will have to get your gun apart and see if doing this is even an opinion. If both sides of your block are used up, you might just have to forget this device.
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Here is my Techstar which (other then the stock) should be exactly like your lonestar
I drilled out the one side of the MMC bracket for the BT to ride in. Also the spoke idea is good as it is already threaded for a nut. I just took my rod, spun it in a drill press and cut a groove with a small dremel cutting disc. Figured this was easier then threading the rod.
I drilled out the one side of the MMC bracket for the BT to ride in. Also the spoke idea is good as it is already threaded for a nut. I just took my rod, spun it in a drill press and cut a groove with a small dremel cutting disc. Figured this was easier then threading the rod.
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For insurance you start with replacement cost figure something with original cost and you ryder is all that settles things.
Resale, find the right buyer or, most older pre-charged rigs are selling for well under 50% original price .
John
Resale, find the right buyer or, most older pre-charged rigs are selling for well under 50% original price .
John
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