Used SCBA Tanks - What Should I Consider Before Purchase? Tank Volume, Hydrotesting, Date of Manufacture, Expiration Dates, & More (VIDEO)

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Ezana4CE

Ezana4CE

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Jan 15, 2021
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I haven't seen a thread that contains the necessary information on selecting and maintaining SCBA tanks for airguning. I think it's about time for one. I aim to add to this thread over time. I'd like for us to have a valuable resource that we can reference and refer new air gunners who are considering purchasing SCUBA tanks, specifically used SCBA tanks. If you have pertinent information regrading used SCBA tanks for air gunning please contribute.

Caveat ** Readers, please keep in mind that many of us have differing opinions when it comes to our air gun hobbies. Some people take more precautions than others when it comes to safety. Be mindful in separating opinion from fact in the responses to threads like this one. Take what you can from this thread to make the most informed decision that you can for yourself. **

When purchasing a PCP airgun and/or SCBA tank. Owners should also purchase shatter resistant glasses or goggles to help protect their eyes from a failed fill whip fitting, ruptured fill hose, or other hazards involving uncontrolled high pressure air (HPA).

Let us start the thread with this very informative link composed by the folks at Air Tanks Plus


What is a Hydrotest? Learn about hydrotesting from this Florida-based SCUBA dive shop owner.


What Happens When Your SCBA Tank Fails a Hydrotest? This SCBA tank owner explains what was done to his SCBA and his experience after his tank failed a hydrotest.

"Failed hydro test"

How are Carbon Fiber SCBA Tanks Made?

The following video was uploaded by the SCBA tank manufacturer Luxfer. I included the video in this thread to show that new CF SCBA tanks (Carbon Fiber SCBA tanks) undergo hydrostatic testing (hydro testing) by the manufacturer before being shipped to distributors. You must use the link below to watch this one on YouTube.

"Manufacturing of carbon composite cylinders"


For members considering buying used SCBA tanks, below is an AGN thread containing questions that you may be asking or thinking about. Please read through the questions and answers contained within to get somewhat of a better understanding of what you're potentially getting yourself into. Mainly, if the tank is beyond 15 years of the date of manufacture (when it was made) then you should expect to fill an old tank yourself using a suitable high pressure air compressor. It is highly unlikely that dive shops, fire stations, and paintball shops will fill these old tanks.

SCBA Tank Questions

Im considering a used SCBA (not SCUBA) tank to fill my 250bar 3625PSI PCP Tank For an FX impact PCP rifle. The gun uses a foster style connector. Any recomendations are gotchas to look out for when buying a used scba tank I found this used just curious if this is using a fosters connector...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com

Additional Info on SCBA Tanks and Fill Fittings:

 
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Gerry52 said:
Safety, common sense, HEALTHY fear of HP air's destructive potential & integrity of equipment are of paramount importance. "Exploding" tanks are about as likely as the Chicago Cubs winning World Series 2 years in a row! Thanks for the post Dave!
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@Gerry52 No problem. Yea, I started another thread with information on exploding SCBA tanks.
 
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bigHUN said:
I don't think we shall expect from a "law" to know what is that tingy in your trunk. They usually trained and busy with other matter.
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Agree completely.

And while I don't truly know the answer to the question, I believe that private citizens would have no problem - it is commercial haulers and gas cylinder companies that have the concern, as well as others that have to comply with DOT regulations (like dive shops). John Doe driving around with a filled tank that is out of date on inspection should be fine - but again I don't know for sure.
 
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This is really good information to have when starting out. I got started in 2012 and I’m embarrassed about how much $ I’ve spent, “learning”. I’m on my 3rd compressor, first two were Chinese, each lasted about a year, I’m going on 3 years now with my Air Venturi. Follow the manufacturers guidelines and stay close while filling, Incase you need to quickly, manually shut down the compressor.
The video of how tanks are made is fascinating to me. I’m new to all of this and don’t know how to recommend a video but also look up care in transporting HPA tanks, (high pressure air). If these tanks fall out of the back of a truck and land so that the neck is ruptured or sheared off, the tank instantly becomes a highly motivated self powered projectile and will not stop until it is out of air.
I’ve been using 2 Scott Air Pack 60 min SCBA bottles with joe brancatto valves for several years now with zero issues.
As soon as I get them, after really looking them over I get them set up like a scuba tank. Flat bottom cap, mesh protector around the tank and a handle around the mesh.
I also kindly ask anyone who isn't familiar with my sport not to touch the tanks without asking.
Thank you to all of you who have been contributing to the education of us all as this hobby has happily consumed all of our “extra money”.
 
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BRASS said:
This is really good information to have when starting out... I’m new to all of this and don’t know how to recommend a video but also look up care in transporting HPA tanks, (high pressure air). If these tanks fall out of the back of a truck and land so that the neck is ruptured or sheared off, the tank instantly becomes a highly motivated self powered projectile and will not stop until it is out of air.
I’ve been using 2 Scott Air Pack 60 min SCBA bottles with joe brancatto valves for several years now with zero issues…
I also kindly ask anyone who isn't familiar with my sport not to touch the tanks without asking.
Thank you to all of you who have been contributing to the education of us all as this hobby has happily consumed all of our “extra money”.
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@BRASS There is a video discussing valve failure in the following linked thread

HPA Tank Failure - Should I Be Concerned? What Happens When A SCBA or SCUBA Tank Fails? What Happens When A Valve Fails? (VIDEOS)

I've read several AGN posts about what a SCUBA or (mores in most of our cases) SCBA tank will and won't do when it fails. Similarly discussed is valve failure. Today I decided to look and see what I could find as far as video content on the topics. I didn't conduct an extensive search, but I...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com

Aventics said:
What tank you would recommend Air Venturi or Omega?
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@Aventics I’ve been using a 74cu Ft Air Venturi Wing Man SCBA tank for a few years without issue.
 
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A few months ago I purchased a used Air Venturi Wingman SCBA tank (98 cuft I think). It came pressurized, but I never used it because I wanted to have it inspected first. I was asked the tank’s age and told them it’s only a few years old. After verifying the manufacturing date, it was determined that a hydro test was not in order. My main concern was the state of the tank valve’s threads on the tank. I am leery of a tank being mishandled, dropped, etc by careless owners or handlers for fear that it may sustain damage to the threads or valve. After thinking that they may have damaged the tank or valve some unscrupulous types may then trade a tank in only to be sold to an unsuspecting customer later by a retailer.

After holding onto my new-to-me SCBA tank for a while, I finally took my tank back to my local dive shop (where I used to get my tanks filled) for a visual inspection. I told them it was pressurized when I brought it in. They began draining it while I was there as I had other business to discuss with the owner. The tech informed me that the air coming from the tank smelled bad and invited me to smell it. He then said “there’s oil and water in this tank.” He then took the tank outside as it drained slowly saying that it was strong and stinking up the shop it didn’t smell that strong to me. The folks at this shop know that I’m an airgun hunter, so I asked if they could clean the tank out. They said they’d fix me up before refilling the tank.

I’d suspected that the previous owner(s) may have used a cheap compressor without adequate filtration and my hunch seems valid. This is why I waited before using the tank and was hesitant about using the air that came in the tank when I bought it. The lesson here is that when dealing with used SCBA tanks I think it’s a good idea to have your SCBA tank’s threads inspected for damage or wear before use. Also be sure that the inside of your tank is clean and dry before filling your air guns from it. Take this info for what it’s worth.
 
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Great thread. Speaking of threads, it would be good to include info on the various thread systems found on tanks and fittings. Primarily though, there’s often confusion between BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel), BSPT British Standard Pipe Tapered, NPT (National Pipe Tapered and NPS (National Pipe Straight). And then sealing methods on different fitting designs, when to teflon tape and not to teflon tape.
 
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rcs9250 said:
Great thread. Speaking of threads, it would be good to include info on the various thread systems found on tanks and fittings. Primarily though, there’s often confusion between BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel), BSPT British Standard Pipe Tapered, NPT (National Pipe Tapered and NPS (National Pipe Straight). And then sealing methods on different fitting designs, when to teflon tape and not to teflon tape.
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@rcs9250 Clever segue using word play. That would be good info to compile. The main issue that comes to mind is that some brands use different tank manufacturers from year to year to make their tanks. I say this having noticed this about Air Venturi branded tanks. I would think that the manufacturers would post specs about a tank thread types, if not then perhaps we can gauge them by the threads on the valves used on said tanks. In order to know which types of threads are used in tanks that come with no valves, I imagine we’d have to begin by identifying which company manufactured the SCBA tank. I know nothing about the sealing methods. I can ask a tech at the dive shop about that. The main tech told me that he’s been doing this for close to 50 years.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
@rcs9250 Clever segue using word play. That would be good info to compile. The main issue that comes to mind is that some brands use different tank manufacturers from year to year to make their tanks. I say this having noticed this about Air Venturi branded tanks. I would think that the manufacturers would post specs about a tank thread types, if not then perhaps we can gauge them by the threads on the valves used on said tanks. In order to know which types of threads are used in tanks that come with no valves, I imagine we’d have to begin by identifying which company manufactured the SCBA tank. I know nothing about the sealing methods. I can ask a tech at the dive shop about that. The main tech told me that he’s been doing this for close to 50 years.
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If that dive shop deals in airgun and paintball related stuff that would be great as far as their knowledge of sealing methods. But he may have a side interest in non scuba gear so that would be great.
My Air Venturi tank has the neck thread size right on the label so that is a good on them. Unfortunately valves for the most part don’t have a specification on them as to the thread size. That was one nice thing in the scuba world after they got away from NPT threads back in the Lloyd Bridges “Sea Hunt” days they more or les standardized tank and valve threads to basically one size, in the U.S.A. anyway.
I come from 40 years in manufacturing and personal tinkering with a wide variety of experience and thirst for knowledge in anything mechanical (I shy away from computers because they’re just a fad and aren’t here to stay 😂😂).
Threads can be a real pain between U.S., British and a couple metric variations. For example, British Whitworth threads are 55° thread flank angle and U.S. and metric are 60°. There are instances where different systems can be screwed together. They have been known to hold under pressure but definitely is not advised or recommended. It is always nice when a vendor specs what thread is on their item so that the user can obtain the proper mating component.

Edit: You are absolutely right on tank threads. How many times have we seen threads on AGN: ANYONE KNOW WHAT THREAD MY XYZ SCBA HAS?.
 
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I bought four scba from a fire station auction sale back couple years ago. All these tanks came pressurized, out of refill warranty, in shape pretty much this one pictured. Never bothered sending them for test.

20230727_170633.jpg


During years one by one I replaced the valves to DIN, diy. Also replaced the valve gauge to more friendly look.

20231105_180105.jpg


All parts from aliexpress

20231107_103919.jpg


Working for me
 
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So an update. Got my tank back and it seems that the air just smelled funny to the men at the shop since they produce breathing quality air. I was told that there was no oil or water found inside, a good thing. Only a small amount of particulate. The tank’s been cleaned out and filled. Threads looked good upon inspection. I’m satisfied.
rcs9250 said:
If that dive shop deals in airgun and paintball related stuff that would be great as far as their knowledge of sealing methods…
Threads can be a real pain between U.S., British and a couple metric variations. For example, British Whitworth threads are 55° thread flank angle and U.S. and metric are 60°. There are instances where different systems can be screwed together. They have been known to hold under pressure but definitely is not advised or recommended. It is always nice when a vendor specs what thread is on their item so that the user can obtain the proper mating component.

Edit: You are absolutely right on tank threads. How many times have we seen threads on AGN: ANYONE KNOW WHAT THREAD MY XYZ SCBA HAS?.
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@rcs9250 The shop owner informed me that we may be able to get information about the thread type on a tank by looking up the SP (special permit) number on the PHMSA website. I’m thinking that this info may come in handy for folks with older used SCBA tanks that were manufactured 15-20 years ago. I also asked about thread sealant and was told it’s usually just an o-ring on the valve. Older steel tanks (rated for around 2500 psi) used to use some Teflon tape or O2 grade pipe dope as a sealant, but this isn’t a common practice any longer. This is all new info to me so we can learn together here. Or if someone with more knowledge here wants to chime in, please do.

Here’s a link to the special permits lists on the PHMSA site

 
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Ezana4CE said:
So an update. Got my tank back and the air nuts smelled funny. I was told that there was no oil or water found inside, a good thing. Only a small amount of particulate. The tank’s been cleaned out and filled. Threads looked good upon inspection. I’m satisfied.

@rcs9250 The shop owner informed me that we may be able to get information about the thread type on a tank by looking up the SP (special permit) number on the PHMSA website. I’m thinking that this info may come in handy for folks with older used SCBA tanks that were manufactured 15-20 years ago. I also asked about thread sealant and was told it’s usually just an o-ring on the valve. Older steel tanks (rated for around 2500 psi) used to use some Teflon tape or O2 grade pipe dope as a sealant, but this isn’t a common practice any longer. This is all new info to me so we can learn together here. Or if someone with more knowledge here wants to chime in, please do.

Here’s a link to the special permits lists on the PHMSA site

Click to expand...
Yep, back in the Sea Hunt era steel 71.2cf steels, and others, had 1/2NPT threads in them. Straight threads and O rings are a much better design.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
So an update. Got my tank back and it seems that the air just smelled funny to the men at the shop since they produce breathing quality air. I was told that there was no oil or water found inside, a good thing. Only a small amount of particulate. The tank’s been cleaned out and filled. Threads looked good upon inspection. I’m satisfied.

@rcs9250 The shop owner informed me that we may be able to get information about the thread type on a tank by looking up the SP (special permit) number on the PHMSA website. I’m thinking that this info may come in handy for folks with older used SCBA tanks that were manufactured 15-20 years ago. I also asked about thread sealant and was told it’s usually just an o-ring on the valve. Older steel tanks (rated for around 2500 psi) used to use some Teflon tape or O2 grade pipe dope as a sealant, but this isn’t a common practice any longer. This is all new info to me so we can learn together here. Or if someone with more knowledge here wants to chime in, please do.

Here’s a link to the special permits lists on the PHMSA site

Click to expand...
This afternoon I checked the information on the PHMSA site using a special permit number on my tank (SP 11194).


The only thing that it revealed to me was the name and location of company that the special permit was granted to (the manufacturer), product type, and various applicable regulations to testing, use, and transportation of my carbon fiber SCBA tank. It appears that in order to find details on the tank I must seek out information published by the manufacturer. More specifically finding out the type of threads used on the tank. I’m not quite sure how one would locate this info on a 15-20 year old air cylinder unless manufacture make them to a standard specification. I’m unsure if there are industry standards in each country that makes these SCBA tanks. Again, if you have knowledge on the topic please let us know what you would recommend.
 
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