One of my P35 25 caliber barrels likes the H&N Baracuda 25 caliber. The other prefers JSB or FX 25.4s. It likes the 34s too but can't push them very fast. My other two P35s prefer H&Ns.
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Stoeger Updated Warranty Replacement for XM1 Bullshark Arrived From Benelli Today
- Thread starter BriarpatchMtn
- Start date
This Barra 250Z leade
Shoots like a laser at 50 yards.
6-8" at 100 yards though.
Barrels are cheap so I ordered two, and they are going to send a replacement.
Shoots like a laser at 50 yards.
6-8" at 100 yards though.
Barrels are cheap so I ordered two, and they are going to send a replacement.
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Got to order more, only got one tin of each. May
try a few other brands, but H&N varieties mostly.
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Really got to wonder how they can get 99% of a barrel right then frig up one spot.This Barra 250Z leade
View attachment 566865
Shoots like a laser at 50 yards.
6-8" at 100 yards though.
Barrels are cheap so I ordered two, and they are going to send a replacement.
Of course I work in a furniture factory and the assembly line workers mostly meth heads, so I do know how it happens. Low wage workers = lower QC.
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Update
Contracted manufacturer, Benelli/Stoeger, about warranty on barrel yesterday. Was asked to email pictures, and proof of purchase. Within an hour or so got reply that they would warranty and replace entire gun. Got the service order information today and gun is on its way to them now. They even provided shipping as an exemption to their normal policy due to just purchasing and receiving the gun Friday. After all, it being over the weekend there was no way to contact them sooner.
Will see how quickly and easily the rest of the process goes, and of course condition of new gun (and it's barrel) when it arrives. But at this moment I've got to say they are certainly standing behind their warranty without any hassles.
Will let everyone know how it all pans out.
Contracted manufacturer, Benelli/Stoeger, about warranty on barrel yesterday. Was asked to email pictures, and proof of purchase. Within an hour or so got reply that they would warranty and replace entire gun. Got the service order information today and gun is on its way to them now. They even provided shipping as an exemption to their normal policy due to just purchasing and receiving the gun Friday. After all, it being over the weekend there was no way to contact them sooner.
Will see how quickly and easily the rest of the process goes, and of course condition of new gun (and it's barrel) when it arrives. But at this moment I've got to say they are certainly standing behind their warranty without any hassles.
Will let everyone know how it all pans out.
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I have to wonder if this damage is caused by the method they are using to center the crown cut? I am picturing a pilot pin on the cutting tool so they can just jam it in one after another on the assembly line doing that damage.
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New Bullshark .25 arrived today. Got to give Benelli/Stoeger credit for standing by their warranty without any hassles. Shipped defective gun out last Tuesday, got new gun today, 1 week turn around isn't bad. ( I'm only 2 states away from them though.)
1st gun had a manufacturing date 2 yrs ago, so had sat around on a shelf for a long time. This one is 8 months old and obviously never touched.
Just finished going over it in detail and no serious defects with this one. Actually videoed everything, from opening the box, just in case I did find an issue so there would be irrefutable proof that anything found would be documented as shipped.
Port isn't bored very clean and crown could use polishing, but it's a budget gun so can't expect them to do a match grade barrel. At least riffling wasn't damaged during crowning like previous one. So I'm satisfied with the barrel, just got to see how it shoots.
Only minor thing I found is the trigger weight adjustment screw wasn't installed. But that's not enough for me to complain to them about. I'll source one if I feel like it.
When it get the $$$ I'm probably get a .22 Ranger or Scout for a bench plinker. They've made me feel confident they'll back their warranty which I think is a big part of any airgun purchase.
1st gun had a manufacturing date 2 yrs ago, so had sat around on a shelf for a long time. This one is 8 months old and obviously never touched.
Just finished going over it in detail and no serious defects with this one. Actually videoed everything, from opening the box, just in case I did find an issue so there would be irrefutable proof that anything found would be documented as shipped.
Port isn't bored very clean and crown could use polishing, but it's a budget gun so can't expect them to do a match grade barrel. At least riffling wasn't damaged during crowning like previous one. So I'm satisfied with the barrel, just got to see how it shoots.
Only minor thing I found is the trigger weight adjustment screw wasn't installed. But that's not enough for me to complain to them about. I'll source one if I feel like it.
When it get the $$$ I'm probably get a .22 Ranger or Scout for a bench plinker. They've made me feel confident they'll back their warranty which I think is a big part of any airgun purchase.
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Great news. I did a little work on a Bullshark that got replaced under warranty because the baffles in the shroud got damaged. I think the baffles do a great job making the gun quieter especially for the small space they occupy but if the shroud gets loose at all and allows them to shift they can clip and get damaged. I have a different bullshark I've been working on now and I noticed it has two grub screws on the back end of the shroud piece which may help. If not, I'll probably get a printed moderator for it. It will make the gun a little longer but eliminate the clipping risk. Gun replacement seems to be the standard response to warranty claims from Stoeger. I wonder if refurbed models will come out from Airgun Revisions.
The sear adjustment screw is 3mmx.5mm. My Home Depot has some and the little hex nut you need for lock them in place. It was missing from a Bullshark and P35X I am working on. Without it, both my guns had a little creep. I have it adjusted to 8-16 ounces now (it varies some shot to shot) with no creep. That seems to be a quite safe level. I have one gun set to half that and I consider it a "targets only" setting. It's getting very close to the point where the gun will go off on it's own.
The sear adjustment screw is 3mmx.5mm. My Home Depot has some and the little hex nut you need for lock them in place. It was missing from a Bullshark and P35X I am working on. Without it, both my guns had a little creep. I have it adjusted to 8-16 ounces now (it varies some shot to shot) with no creep. That seems to be a quite safe level. I have one gun set to half that and I consider it a "targets only" setting. It's getting very close to the point where the gun will go off on it's own.
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Show us the accuracy of the new gun please. Stoeger took care of you.
I’m wondering if the new one will be an improvement in accuracy
I’m wondering if the new one will be an improvement in accuracy
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Thanks for sear adjustment screw size. Wonder if they've started omitting them intentionally. They're not mentioned in the manual, only found it on a YT video before I purchased.
I to wonder what they do with the warranty returns. Really just expected a replacement barrel, not an entire new gun, because nothing was wrong with rest of the gun.
Only info I haven't found is adjusting the regulator since it doesn't have a plenum gauge.
Certainly will. Just hoping not to get rained out over the weekend.
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It isn't BriarpatchMtn's gun but my new-to-me bullshark in 22 shot a 194 with Crosmans today and my P35-25 with a P35X barrel in it shot a 198 less than a week ago. Targets are in the 30 yard challenge area. The lowest best score of any of my SPA guns is a 196 from the P35-177 last year.
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I've had the regulator out of my Bullshark at least 3 times in the last week. It came to me non-functional. I've got it to work a couple times but then it fails again. My last "fix" was to replace all the O-rings. It's worked for two days now, we'll see about tomorrow. Last 21 shots today varied by 10 fps.
Normal regulator adjustments can be done through the muzzle end of the airtube. Take the tube looking tool that came with the gun and use it to unscrew the gauge after draining all the air (there is a screw on the back of the airtube for this, it will have a hex head). If you are fortunate the big nut that closes off the airtube will come with the gauge. If not, put something smooth through the hole in the nut for the probe and unscrew it. The force will be low with the air removed but there are lots of threads. When you get to the end the O-rings will still hold the nut and you just rock it a little side to side and pull on it. With the nut off you will see the regulator in the other end of the airtube. Put a 12mm socket on a 18 inch long extension and loosen the lock nut and then use an equally long straight blade screwdriver to turn the regulator clockwise to lower the regulator and counter clockwise to raise it. Half a turn seems to be about 5 bar.
If you've been in the gun recently and removed the regulator the O-rings of the regulator may not grip the air tube enough that you can loosen the lock nut. In that event (or if you don't like working at long range) you can pull it from the back. Drain the air, loosen the screws on the clamping yokes that clamp the barrel to the airtube, loosen the stock screws (may not be necessary) and unscrew the airtube from the action. You might need a thin 19mm wrench. Once it is removed (the valve and valve spring will be revealed when it comes out) you unscrew the end fitting of the airtube where the bleed screw is. If you are lucky the regulator will come with it but if not, use the long socket extension to push it out of the airtube. Adjust it, grease up the O-rings a little and push it back in. The nut will push it to the right spot when you screw it in. If you go too far it will move back against the nut when you fill the airtube with air.
If you go in through the muzzle in I would look at the one-way valve on the back of the big nut. It has an O-ring and sometimes fails when you degass.
This is not terribly difficult but does get old if you have to keep going in repeatedly. Another tidbit you might find handy is the distance from the end of the adjustment screw and the lock nut (when it is tight). When my reg was at about 145 bar that distance was about 3mm. When my reg was about 140 bar that distance was about 2.4 mm.
Normal regulator adjustments can be done through the muzzle end of the airtube. Take the tube looking tool that came with the gun and use it to unscrew the gauge after draining all the air (there is a screw on the back of the airtube for this, it will have a hex head). If you are fortunate the big nut that closes off the airtube will come with the gauge. If not, put something smooth through the hole in the nut for the probe and unscrew it. The force will be low with the air removed but there are lots of threads. When you get to the end the O-rings will still hold the nut and you just rock it a little side to side and pull on it. With the nut off you will see the regulator in the other end of the airtube. Put a 12mm socket on a 18 inch long extension and loosen the lock nut and then use an equally long straight blade screwdriver to turn the regulator clockwise to lower the regulator and counter clockwise to raise it. Half a turn seems to be about 5 bar.
If you've been in the gun recently and removed the regulator the O-rings of the regulator may not grip the air tube enough that you can loosen the lock nut. In that event (or if you don't like working at long range) you can pull it from the back. Drain the air, loosen the screws on the clamping yokes that clamp the barrel to the airtube, loosen the stock screws (may not be necessary) and unscrew the airtube from the action. You might need a thin 19mm wrench. Once it is removed (the valve and valve spring will be revealed when it comes out) you unscrew the end fitting of the airtube where the bleed screw is. If you are lucky the regulator will come with it but if not, use the long socket extension to push it out of the airtube. Adjust it, grease up the O-rings a little and push it back in. The nut will push it to the right spot when you screw it in. If you go too far it will move back against the nut when you fill the airtube with air.
If you go in through the muzzle in I would look at the one-way valve on the back of the big nut. It has an O-ring and sometimes fails when you degass.
This is not terribly difficult but does get old if you have to keep going in repeatedly. Another tidbit you might find handy is the distance from the end of the adjustment screw and the lock nut (when it is tight). When my reg was at about 145 bar that distance was about 3mm. When my reg was about 140 bar that distance was about 2.4 mm.
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Thanks for the how to. From what I gather all the XM1 series come with the regs set at 150. I figure that at some point I'll be adjusting more than just the hammer spring. I believe Rich with Airgun Revisions said the .25 cals tuned better for heavier pellets in the 165 range. Obviously I'll see how it shoots first before tinkering with anything.
Understand the getting old side of things, my big bore taught me that. Had it apart so much I can nearly do it with my eyes closed.
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The valve of the bullshark is smaller diameter and brass whereas the P35 poppet is plastic and bigger. But the P35 hammer spring cannot handle 150 bar unless the ambient temperature is low. No way it will handle 165. But I don't know where the bullshark will fail to be able to open the valve. The spring is the same but the valve is smaller so it might be able to open 165. My guess is that's too high but I could be wrong. I saw where Rich said they come at 150 but that is not true in my experience for P35s. Might be for Stoegers. The one Bullshark I've adjusted the regulator on had been adjusted by it's previous owner so I'm not sure where it started. It's challenging to make a lot of fpe from a 450 or 490 mm barrel. My P35-25 has a 531mm P35X barrel on it and the hammer spring for the P35X and still is slightly under 50 fpe with 34 grain. But it has a P35 valve set to about 145 bar. Might be 150. I needed the P35X hammer spring to open it when the ambient temperature got higher. I got it to almost 50 with the stock barrel but the regulator had to be the absolute maximum the hammer spring could handle and then the temperature would change and the gun would be way low on velocity. I'm shooting my P35 with it's long barrel with 25.4s going about 905 fps for about 47 fpe right now. I still have two turns on the hammer spring available. Going up to 34 grain would add a couple fpe. But it shoots so accurately at the current tune I plan to just leave it alone. A few more fpe will make less difference than putting the pellet in the right spot. I'm saying all this to say I think upper 40 fpe is available but getting much over 50 isn't realistic for a 490 mm barrel Bullshark in 25. If it will handle 165 maybe you get there but you may need a P35X hammer spring to be able to open the valve. I also have an aftermarket plenum on mine to make it about 30cc. And I drilled out all the passages to 85% of bore size, stock is 75%. There is only so much you can do. I may try another thing or two but I think the best course of action is to remember these are light guns with short barrels and they make very usable but not real high fpe.
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Got out with new gun this morning before rain arrived. Sight in was with the JSB's at 25 yds. Believe this one will also like the heavier H&N Baracuda's as the group for range. Appears that 45yds about is the reach before everything starts opens up.
But the gun is going to need tuning before anything is certain.
Assuming factory regulator setting is 150, they also have the hammer spring turned all the way in. So I can only back it out and tune down.
Just watching YT vids my understanding is that this isn't a correctly balanced tune. This vid gave me best info I've stumbled upon for tuning a regulated airgun.
As is, the H&N's are to heavy for factory settings, so I've got to start with adjusting the reg. Only getting about 750fps.
But the gun is going to need tuning before anything is certain.
Assuming factory regulator setting is 150, they also have the hammer spring turned all the way in. So I can only back it out and tune down.
Just watching YT vids my understanding is that this isn't a correctly balanced tune. This vid gave me best info I've stumbled upon for tuning a regulated airgun.
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That video is too pedantic for my lack of patience. My guess is your regulator may be a bit high and the hammer spring may not be opening the valve fully. I would start by turning the regulator down at least 1/4 turn, maybe 1/2 turn. Half a turn should be about 5 bar so it is not a whole lot. If velocity increases, consistent with my theory, and you can back off on the hammer spring and still stay at about the same velocity you probably want to stay there. If I am wrong and velocity decreases you can then try going up. You could do it the other way (up first) but don't forget you may have to go down on the regulator to go up in velocity. That happened to me today on my P35-22.
You are correct that when you get to a situation where velocity just keeps increasing as you increase the hammer spring you don't really know if you are at the maximum. I use accuracy to pick my final hammer spring in that situation. I shoot 5 shot groups at decreasing hammer spring settings and use what the gun seems to like.
My P35-25 has a much larger plenum and drilled out passages through the action and barrel. But it would push 25.4s 860-870 fps with the stock 450mm barrel. Your barrel is longer but I'm guess you have the stock plenum and passages. So I don't know which is more important but I would be looking for at least 840 on that pellet from your gun. It may be as simple as dropping the regulator a bit.
You are correct that when you get to a situation where velocity just keeps increasing as you increase the hammer spring you don't really know if you are at the maximum. I use accuracy to pick my final hammer spring in that situation. I shoot 5 shot groups at decreasing hammer spring settings and use what the gun seems to like.
My P35-25 has a much larger plenum and drilled out passages through the action and barrel. But it would push 25.4s 860-870 fps with the stock 450mm barrel. Your barrel is longer but I'm guess you have the stock plenum and passages. So I don't know which is more important but I would be looking for at least 840 on that pellet from your gun. It may be as simple as dropping the regulator a bit.
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Thanks for the advice. Did little with the crono after seeing fps simply went down as I back hammer spring out by 1/2 turns.
Tuning this will be new learning process for me. But worked alot on trimming a few hammer springs on my big bore to get a good reg and valve balance.
Got to get me a long extension and screw driver. Differently less time consuming going through the front, verses taking off air tube for multiple adjustments.
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