Update from Mac1

[Don.Chipmunk-slayer]

hell ya!

It's scheduled to be here between 11:15 and 1:15 on Monday. My kid has an appointment at 1:00 for an hour that I have to take him to. So about 3 o'clock I'll take the rifle to my mom's, mount and zero the scope, then get chronograph readings. So I should be able to put everything up Monday late afternoon, early evening in a new post.

 

[coastal drifter]

It's scheduled to be here between 11:15 and 1:15 on Monday. My kid has an appointment at 1:00 for an hour that I have to take him to. So about 3 o'clock I'll take the rifle to my mom's, mount and zero the scope, then get chronograph readings. So I should be able to put everything up Monday late afternoon, early evening in a new post.

sounds good brother, family first

 

[Don.Chipmunk-slayer]

It just now arrived. I attached the stock and remounted the scope.

Zeroing the scope and the chronograph testing will be done this afternoon.

 

[manabeknives]

Does Tim have a website? the one's i looked at were not working
thanks
Mike

 

[AirNGasman]

Turning 72 this week, I now make conscious efforts to not repeat myself unless something really bears repeating for good reason(s). So although I've probably already proffered this advice, understand I repeat it now for good reason(s).

Assuming accuracy is at the top of your want-list, and maximum energy is next on that list, start your testing with 18.13 grain JSB Exact Heavies (or FX or AA branded versions of them). But if high velocities are your second priority (to accuracy), start your testing with 14.3 grain JSB, FX or AAs. And if excellent compromise between velocity and energy is your second priority (to accuracy), 15.9 JSBs (or rebranded).

If not impressed enough by then, and not too injured to continue testing, compare those results to H&N, new-die Benjamin, and/or AEA weight-equivalent domes.

Last but not least Don. Don't just listen to your shoulders, elbows and wrists; HEAR what they have to say about it. And should your testing expand beyond the recommendations above, take up professional arm-wrestling.

Happy shooting, Bud!

.

 

[Don.Chipmunk-slayer]

Turning 72 this week, I now make conscious efforts to not repeat myself unless something really bears repeating for good reason(s). So although I've probably already proffered this advice, understand I repeat it now for good reason(s).

Assuming accuracy is at the top of your want-list, and maximum energy is next on that list, start your testing with 18.13 grain JSB Exact Heavies (or FX or AA branded versions of them). But if high velocities are your second priority (to accuracy), start your testing with 14.3 grain JSB, FX or AAs. And if excellent compromise between velocity and energy is your second priority (to accuracy), 15.9 JSBs (or rebranded).

If not impressed enough by then, and not too injured to continue testing, compare those results to H&N, new-die Benjamin, and/or AEA weight-equivalent domes.

Last but not least Don. Don't just listen to your shoulders, elbows and wrists; HEAR what they have to say about it. And should your testing expand beyond the recommendations above, take up professional arm-wrestling.

Happy shooting, Bud!

.

The 1st pellets I'm going to test over the chronograph will be the 14.3 CPHP's, since I found information on three different stock 392's with that exact pellet - that way I'll be comparing apples to apples...that's just the start.

I have a bunch of 21.14gr H&N domed (the heaviest I have) and may also give them a try. Not to mention the Crow Magnums and a few others.

 

[RatRacer]

Does Tim have a website? the one's i looked at were not working
thanks
Mike

His site got shut down in 23.

 

[DARKHORSE1967]

Does Tim have a website? the one's i looked at were not working
thanks
Mike

Don Chipmunk wrote it down here in one of his threads.

I remember taking a screenshot of it using my tablet.

Not a site but Tim’s phone number (Tim said to go ahead and share it).

Don shared it in the other forum as well.

 

[manabeknives]

i got it...thanks all

 

[Don.Chipmunk-slayer]

Don Chipmunk wrote it down here in one of his threads.

I remember taking a screenshot of it using my tablet.

Not a site but Tim’s phone number (Tim said to go ahead and share it).

Don shared it in the other forum as well.

Tim's not a sponsor for the other forum, so they edited his info, but said I could share it there in a PM.

I went ahead and sent @manabeknives a PM with Tim's phone and email.

For everyone else, here's his contact info:

[email protected]

(310) 327-3581

 

[Don.Chipmunk-slayer]

**Update on the Update**

As you all saw, I got the rifle back. Unfortunately there were a few issues. I called Tim and explained what was going on. He immediately took ownership of the problems, saying "That's all on me, send it back and I WILL make it right."

It arrived back at his shop this past Tuesday (2 days ago). Yesterday, I get a notification that Mac1 Airguns has shipped a package to me. I was a bit confused, because when I had spoken with Tim, he wasn't sure how long he would need the rifle. So I called and he told me, "Yes, your rifle is on its way back, it's good to go now."

He had totally disassembled the rifle, rehoned and polished the air tube, went over the valve with a fine toothed comb, making 100% sure it was perfect inside and out. He replaced all the seals, even though they were new, then pressure tested the whole thing.

This was done Tuesday, the same day it arrived. He then shipped it back yesterday and it's due home this coming Tuesday.

I have to give Tim credit for outstanding customer service and support.

 

[3Crows]

**Update on the Update**

As you all saw, I got the rifle back. Unfortunately there were a few issues. I called Tim and explained what was going on. He immediately took ownership of the problems, saying "That's all on me, send it back and I WILL make it right."

It arrived back at his shop this past Tuesday (2 days ago). Yesterday, I get a notification that Mac1 Airguns has shipped a package to me. I was a bit confused, because when I had spoken with Tim, he wasn't sure how long he would need the rifle. So I called and he told me, "Yes, your rifle is on its way back, it's good to go now."

He had totally disassembled the rifle, rehoned and polished the air tube, went over the valve with a fine toothed comb, making 100% sure it was perfect inside and out. He replaced all the seals, even though they were new, then pressure tested the whole thing.

This was done Tuesday, the same day it arrived. He then shipped it back yesterday and it's due home this coming Tuesday.

I have to give Tim credit for outstanding customer service and support.

So, that sounds encouraging, I am hopeful it will be perfect for you now. But what exactly was wrong that it had to go home and visit the doctor?

I am rebuilding my modded (ported, increased plenum and TSM) 392 right now. Corrosion in the valve and leaking. Valve may be ruined , it looks bad. May have to replace valve. Whatever else I do, I will coat the springs and internals of the valve with that thick, sticky 100% silicone plumber's grease. Meanwhile my Steroid is shooting strong .

 

[Don.Chipmunk-slayer]

So, that sounds encouraging, I am hopeful it will be perfect for you now. But what exactly was wrong that it had to go home and visit the doctor?

I am rebuilding my modded (ported, increased plenum and TSM) 392 right now. Corrosion in the valve and leaking. Valve may be ruined , it looks bad. May have to replace valve. Whatever, I will coat the springs and internals with that thick, sticky 100% silicone plumber's grease. Meanwhile my Steroid is shooting strong .

My rifle was a problem child from the start. It was a used gun sent back to the factory for refurbishing and had paint EVERYWHERE ... including inside the air tube and the aluminum valve was corroded, which made heavy scratching inevitable, to to it off, the NEW pump cup was defective.

Tim had thought he'd gotten all the paint out and that a few of the scratches were worse than he'd thought. He also admitted that he had 'lost his place' while working in my rifle, as he had an identical rifle, getting the exact same modifications done close by, so he didn't get mine as good as he thought originally.

BOTTOM LINE: He owned up to the mistake and fixed it, literally as soon as the gun was back in his hands. It was on its way home in less than 24 hours. He even figured a tool to properly hone and polish the entire inner length of the tube, so now all traces of scratching is gone. Plus some debris had gotten into the valve (paint & small bits of corrosion), so the valve had to be repolished and resealed.

He uses Delrin O-rings, which are superior to rubber, but they don't conform to uneven surfaces as well as rubber, so the surface has to be near perfect.

 

[3Crows]

For my home modded rifle I used a 1000(?) grit ball flexi hone to go up in the rear of my air tube to polish the area the piston cup rides in. There is typically some over spray there and of course in the end of the muzzle. This removed the over spray along with careful use of MEK swabbed in to soften it. It leaves very slight, almost imperceptible cross hatching which helps the cup seal and move smoothly. MEK/MPK on cotton swabs can remove the paint from the barrel muzzle, gentle, gentle.

I have heard people say the barrels cannot be cleaned except through the muzzle. This is not correct. The side cover plate removes with two screws. Under that is a cocking Allen screw, remove that. Then pull the bolt out. Now there is access to properly clean the barrel. I use a soft cotton mop laden with Kroil (not dripping) and allow it to sit and repeat. Then I use a dry mop to remove the Kroil and any debris. Then another mop with CLP and followed with another with Johnsons Wax or Carnauba or Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax. Buff that with a few passes of a dry soft mop. Done. Should possibly never need cleaning again or only after a long while. A soft nylon bristle brush may be okay for heavier cleaning of abused rifles but never use a bronze brush. YRMV.

I have heard of people using Hoppes, uh, no! Thats is a copper solvent and the barrel being brass which is a copper alloy, well, dunno, I would not do that.