Unsolved mistake. Update 4/04/2023.- Now SOLVED !!

Well here it is the sad story.

Yesterday I went to a hunting with a cousin of mine.

My cousin does not has any experience with PCP’s. I borrowed him my Uragan .22 Cal.

My cousin managed to triple fee the Uragan with NSA slugs. Absolutely jamed.

My idea was to repeat a previously implemented solution: ho to a store, buy 7 drill tips of the “adequate” size and insert them by the barrel and gently hit them with a hammer to make the slugs go back and get expulse.

Unfortunatelly the drill tips happens to be slightly slim and I have now two tips James one with the other.

Already disassembled the barrel sprayed on it WD40, covered the barrel with plastic, papel towel and plastic again and tied it to the hitch howl of my SUV with the idea that vibration could make that tips to free form the jam.

Unfortunate try of solution that caused a worst problem that I do not know if it will be solved.

If someone has a better solution ideas al welcome.

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Read the following for what to do...and more importantly what not to do.

 
Lead is soft, pushing and pounding will only expand it tighter. Drill bits can damage the bore.
Several times I have simply used a long enough metal rod just slightly under the bore size and just heat the tip of the rod up cherry red and bit by bit melt the lead out of the bore. Hold the barrel vertical and let the red hot rod melt some and run down, repeat as many times as needed.

Kit
 
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I do not have any slug now in the barrel, but the dill tips are still jamed.

I am of the idea that wd40 and vibration will eventually make the drill tips to get loose. But what I do not know is how long it could take.

For the moment it would be convenient to try to buy another Uragan .22 Cal barrel.
Well maybe, you could try shooting the rifle and see if that dislodges the drill bits. If not I would go purchase a soft brass rod just under the bore size, run that down the barrel and give it a quick hard rap with a hammer. Gently heating the barrel with a heat gun in the area of stuck bits might also help expand the barrel a few microns. Do not get too hot, or it will turn bluing brown and anneal other type coatings.

Too late now, but for future reference always use a drill bit under the bore size, you also want it to fit well in the bore with a plastic drinking straw around it. If you have to braze the drill bit to a long rod do so, you want the whole thing drill bit and drinking straw to slide down the bore, now super glue the straw to the bit and the straw will insure the bit never touches the bore itself. In case it happens again for whatever reason.

Kit
 
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Are they jammed:
1. Drill tip to drill tip?
2. Drill tip to drill shank?
3. Drill tip to slug?
I know you said lead is out of the bore, are you sure?
Depending on the tip grind geometry, and if the drills are oriented tip to tip, it is possible they tried to thread themselves to each other, thereby creating an expanding plug of sorts. If that’s what has happened, they need to be pulled apart from opposite ends.

Plan B, send your cousin a bill.
 
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As much as I hate to say this, first as stated above, which directions are the tips going? 1. CAREFULLY using a metal , brass or Aluminum, dowel go the opposite direction, you don't want them 'drilling. you MIGHT try warming up the barrel a little to get it to expand AS you try to tap them out, GENTLY. The odds on the barrel being toast are pretty good BUT you might be able to polish it out. If they are tip to tip, then try heating for sure. Good Luck.
 
Are they jammed:
1. Drill tip to drill tip?
2. Drill tip to drill shank?
3. Drill tip to slug?
I know you said lead is out of the bore, are you sure?
Depending on the tip grind geometry, and if the drills are oriented tip to tip, it is possible the tried to thread themselves to each other, thereby creating an expanding plug of sorts. If hat’s what has happened, they need to be pulled apart from opposite ends.

Plan B, send your cousin a bill.
Drill tip to drill shank.

the drill shank is close to the hole of where ther air gets into the barrel at shot.
 
I had a buddy that jammed 3 slugs into his M3. What I did was used a cleaning rod to try and push them out. But what ended up happening is the rod got stuck in the slugs. So when I pulled the cleaning rod out it pulled the slug with it.

Intrigued I put the rod back into the barrel and tapped on the back end to smash it into the next slug. And again I was able to pull out the lodged slug. I have never hear anyone trying this, but ill be darned if it didn't work.

I was using a rod that had a female end on it. So the slug was able to go inside the threaded portion and it helped grab the slug.

Give it a try

Didn't realize that the slugs were already removed. Why would you put steel drill bits in your barrel? Honestly I would write the barrel off and buy a new barrel and have your cousin pay half.
 
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I would try heat. Heat the barrel in the area the drill bits are jammed. The heat should expand the barrel enough that a couple taps of the barrel with a brass hammer (on the side of the barrel near the jam) should break them loose. If that doesn’t work, they’re probably so right that it’s already caused damage to the rifling, and a new barrel is your best bet anyway.
 
I lnow that my first idea was kind of sarcastic and in jest. Plus gasoline is expensive and all of those additional miles on your vehicle isn’t really practical.

I have a better idea.
If you can estimate where the drill bits are jammed in your barrel, you can place a mark on the outside of your barrel right about where the tip of one of the drill bits are. Then, carefully, with a hacksaw make a cut and proceed till the barrel is cut in half, exposing the tip of one of the stuck drill bits. Caution: when you start your hacksaw cut, go slow as you don’t want the blade to slip and scratch your barrel
 
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I do not have any problem in buying a new barrel, the problem will be to find a new one.
If you cannot find an original barrel to mount, looking at some Uragan images and YouTube videos, the barrel's dimensions look like they are fairly easy to reproduce in any aftermarket liner of your choosing. Though this is usually quite expensive, it may make for a really accurate shooting bullpup.
 
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