First choice would be the German Fallschirmjager rifle, the FG42 2nd Pattern. Second would be the Sturmgewehr 44.
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Tuning Umarex M1A1 Thompson Repair
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First choice would be the German Fallschirmjager rifle, the FG42 2nd Pattern. Second would be the Sturmgewehr 44.
New entry German Fallschirmjager rifle, the FG42 2nd Pattern. Except the Fallschirmjager rifle had reliability problems, loading chamber and firing issues they broke down and I believe only about 900 to a 1K were made. So the Germans concluded it was too expensive and a dead end.
That's 2 for the Sturmgewehr 44.
That's 2 for the Sturmgewehr 44.
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Looks like they addressed the sloppy sear issue. My replace gun has nowhere near the same sloppiness.
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I do not know, I have not seen any new Umarex M1A1's.
The damage to my M1A1 was caused by me.
I jammed the bolt forward, bent the sear causing some of white metal to sheer off of the end of the bolt (the sear is steel, the upper receiver is white metal a much softer metal). Silly me!
My fix was to straiten the sear and file the bolt to re-fit the end of the sear. I probably caused more damage to the white metal part that holds the sear to bend/deform causing the excessive wiggle of the sear. I had to add the brass part to fit to reduce the wiggle in the sear.
The damage to my M1A1 was caused by me.
I jammed the bolt forward, bent the sear causing some of white metal to sheer off of the end of the bolt (the sear is steel, the upper receiver is white metal a much softer metal). Silly me!
My fix was to straiten the sear and file the bolt to re-fit the end of the sear. I probably caused more damage to the white metal part that holds the sear to bend/deform causing the excessive wiggle of the sear. I had to add the brass part to fit to reduce the wiggle in the sear.
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Well I was shooting the M3 Greece gun (really M3A1) and MAN... was it hard to remove the the clip Co2 plug! I have three clips and all of then were very hard to remove. I did some investigation and I believe that it is because the Co2 plugs are made and machined out of white meatal. This does not bode well for the long time use. Where-as the other C02 plugs (M1A1 Thompson and MP-40) are made out of machined steel. A much better choice for long time usage. When I cleaned the threads (both on the plug and the inside threads) I found a lot of black metal scrapings on both threads. This only means that there is wear from the white metal threads. I will try some fixes and see what happens and let you know. I have couple of Ideas.
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I've had this problem with a couple of blowback C02 airsoft guns I own. I polished the threads with a Dremel plastic bristle brush and red polishing rouge, cleaned the threads, and coated them with white lithium grease. Cuts down on the grinding friction pretty well. I also bleed off as much pressure as possible by dry firing if the design permits before unscrewing the plug.
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This is the first I have run into this problem.
Yes, venting all of the gas (dry firing if it works) or using BBs loaded in the gun with short bursts, that works also to empty Co2 gas that is left in the clip chamber. Get rid of all of the Co2 gas so that the counter pressure is removed.
This is not a problem with the Umarex M1A1 or the MP-40 screwing in or out, however, Myelocyte 111 100% silicone grease makes it a snap, no grinding. Both guns are constructed with machined steel plugs for the Co2 chambers.
However the grinding is still there with the white metal threads in the Co2 plug with the M3 grease gun. Yes, I do clean the threads after every use and as a lubricant I use Myelocyte 111 100% silicone grease, (the old DOW Corning 111 100% silicone grease). I do not use because Lithium grease causes the surface to become coated with a mixture on hydroxide (LIOH), lithium carbonate (LI2CO3), and nitride (LI3N).
Lithium hydroxide represents a potentially significant hazard because it is extremely corrosive; 100% silicone grease does not affect metal, rubbers, synthetic rubber, or anything else; and it disburses water.
I am predicting that with the white metal plug on the magazine of the Umarex M3 Grease gun that this will be single point of failure on the gun.
On the other Umarex Legends gins M1A1, PM-40 the plugs are machined steel and do not have the problem of grinding the threads.
I believe that Umarex decided to save money on this production part. Machining steel is more expensive then machining white cast metal.
Time will tell.
Yes, venting all of the gas (dry firing if it works) or using BBs loaded in the gun with short bursts, that works also to empty Co2 gas that is left in the clip chamber. Get rid of all of the Co2 gas so that the counter pressure is removed.
This is not a problem with the Umarex M1A1 or the MP-40 screwing in or out, however, Myelocyte 111 100% silicone grease makes it a snap, no grinding. Both guns are constructed with machined steel plugs for the Co2 chambers.
However the grinding is still there with the white metal threads in the Co2 plug with the M3 grease gun. Yes, I do clean the threads after every use and as a lubricant I use Myelocyte 111 100% silicone grease, (the old DOW Corning 111 100% silicone grease). I do not use because Lithium grease causes the surface to become coated with a mixture on hydroxide (LIOH), lithium carbonate (LI2CO3), and nitride (LI3N).
Lithium hydroxide represents a potentially significant hazard because it is extremely corrosive; 100% silicone grease does not affect metal, rubbers, synthetic rubber, or anything else; and it disburses water.
I am predicting that with the white metal plug on the magazine of the Umarex M3 Grease gun that this will be single point of failure on the gun.
On the other Umarex Legends gins M1A1, PM-40 the plugs are machined steel and do not have the problem of grinding the threads.
I believe that Umarex decided to save money on this production part. Machining steel is more expensive then machining white cast metal.
Time will tell.
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Well I had the same problems with my Umarex Thompson. I live in humid hot areas, not sure how much to lubricate or airgun oil it to keep from small leaks, I know the vintage stuff, new to replicas. How and where on magazine do you keep seals from leaking?
Thanks for patience with a "newbie"!
TimeBanditz
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No problem. There is (IMHO) for the Umarex BB guns is simple; 100% Silicone oil. Especially in humid conditions. Silicone oil has 5 reasons to use it.
1) It is very very slippery.
2) It does not affect metal, plastic, vinyl or rubber, synthetic or natural. In fact it coats the plastics, rubber metal and preserves them over time.
3) This is the big one; it displaces water, moisture, frost etc. Water/moisture cannot exist where silicone oil is applied. It will bead up and evaporate or be expelled.
4) Because the SI (silicone) molecules are so small and close together Ultraviolet Radiation (UV -Suns Rays) are not strong enough to break the molecular bonds of the SI molecules. Silicone will protect where ever the oil is applied for a long long time and will NOT evaporate.
5) Operating temperatures are -51 F and +396 F.
LIthium and Lithium Grease as a lubricant
I have also seen and herd of Air gunners/C02 gunners using Lithium or Lithium grease to lubricate their guns and magazines/clips, C02 chambers etc. DO NOT USE LITHIUM ON ANY AIR OR BB GUN!
Lithium-based lubricants can break down rubber and plastic components because lithium is petroleum-based. However, "some say" that white lithium grease is safe for use on rubber boots for car parts, which are made of synthetic nitrile rubber or neoprene rubber. These types of rubber are resistant to petroleum grease except rubber and plastic infused with PTFE.
Even white lithium grease can cause problems with plastic gears that have been infused with PTFE or silicone as an internal lubricant.
Look it up.
Lithium will destroy rubber, synthetic rubber, plastic, vinyl, in fact any plastic. The seals in BB and pellet guns are all made from rubber or synthetic rubber and plastic.
Petroleum oils will degrade rubber and plastic over time.
I also lubricate the BBs and place a drop on the head of the magazine (both sides) where the BBs feed and where the BBs come out of the chamber. Although it is not a real firearm it does need to be lubricated; shooting 100s or thousands of BBs going thru the gun needs lubrication.
The least expensive 100% Silicone is "WD-40 Specialist" (any Hardware store about $8 dollars a can) or you can buy "Microlube" 100% silicone oil (Amazon) it has a higher viscosity (50-100 CST) than the WD-40 Specialist but is is more expensive. (I use both). Specialist WD-40 for BBs and MicroLubrol 100% silicone oil 100 CST or 200 CST oil for the guns. I also have used MicroLubrol 100% silicone oil 350 CST, that oil is used for the Co2 cartridges; it is very thick and will not drop or run off of the cartridge tip.
Do not use WD-40, it will leave a gunk behind. WD-40 was developed for NASA to remove ice from the outside of rockets (ice forms on the rockets from the cold liquid oxygen tanks and adds weight to the vehicle). WD stands for Water Displacement and it has petroleum products in it.
The WD-40 Specialist Silicone comes out like a firehose from the can (11oz). I use a tall container put a paper towel over the top poke the red tube through and empty the can into the container. You can use any container really. Then let the oil sit for 24 hours for it the de-gas (the propellent) do this in a well ventilated area, I do not know what type of Gas propellant is used but I would not breath it in.
I oil the entire gun ("Microlube silicone oil at least 200 CST"), inside and out and it is made in the USA not China. Wipe it clean and you should not have any more problems with rust.
See my video about separating the Upper receiver from the Lower receiver on the M1A1 Umarex Thompson.
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Modifying my Umarex M1A1 Thompson with wood (grips/stock) furniture
This is not really a "Repair" for the Umarex M1A1 however it is a "modification/upgrade' for the M1A1.Ever since I have owned the Umarex M1A1, more than 4 years now. I have never liked the "thunk" noise that the hollow plastic grips and stock makes that handling the gun; really annoying.
So I have decided to buy a set of wood furniture (Stock & grips) for the Umarex M1A1 Co2 BB gun. I am sure that I will have to do some fitting but I am confident I can do that; the biggest problem was finding a seller which I eventually found and it is on the way now (arriving whenever).
My MP40 is good enough (authentic) as is the M3 grease gun (all metal anyway). But what can I say; I want wood stock and grips for my M1A1 "Walnut Brown"; call me a fanatic but I want wood grips so I do not have to listen to the plastic (thunking) noise that the adjustable Kerr Pattern Sling makes on the cheap plastic furniture!
I was thinking when I get the furniture would anyone like the see the fitting and final gun when I am done?
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I have a stock M1A1 and I would really like to see your results. I would also like to know where you got the furniture.
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Sure thing, I have not received the furniture as of yet but I will post when I get the items. I will reserve identifying who and where I purchased from, since I do not know if I will like the furniture or not (Positive or negative). I will share all as I go thru the process. I just do not want to say until after I am done.
I will however let you know after I receive and examine the items as to whom/who and where I bought them from and a detailed description of the same along with my review of the items, Good or Bad. I WILL BE COMPLETELY HONEST!
NOTE: All I know about the Delivery is that is "ON THE WAY" whatever that means?
At this point all I have now is the dark walnut stain and the Umarex M1A1 sitting on the bench waiting. (Not going to put that stain on the plastic parts, still will hear the "thunking" sound that I dislike).
I will post updates when I get them.
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Sure. What I did with mine is just stuffed the stock real tight with packing paper. Has a more solid sound now when you tap it. One guy thought and still thinks real wood before I did anything to it. You have to examine it to figure its not wood. Another thing you can do is spray the stock with the expanding insulating foam for an even more solid sound.
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R.Ramjet
Hey R.Ramjet, I thought about that for a long time and decided "NOPE". I want real wood grips (furniture) on my favorite Umarex SMG. Also I noticed that you have a regular sling on yours, I have a repro Kerr sling on mine stamped U.S. I wanted it to be as authentic as I can make it. The Kerr sling has a bit more metal at the attachment points so it generates much more noise. Like I said; call me crazy... I want the M1A1 to be as authentic as I can get the Umarex M1A1 SMG.
Buy the way nice pics!
Hey R.Ramjet, I thought about that for a long time and decided "NOPE". I want real wood grips (furniture) on my favorite Umarex SMG. Also I noticed that you have a regular sling on yours, I have a repro Kerr sling on mine stamped U.S. I wanted it to be as authentic as I can make it. The Kerr sling has a bit more metal at the attachment points so it generates much more noise. Like I said; call me crazy... I want the M1A1 to be as authentic as I can get the Umarex M1A1 SMG.
Buy the way nice pics!
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Modifying my Umarex M1A1 Thompson with wood (grips/stock) furniture
I have an update on my M1A1 Modification/Upgrade project,
"Shipping notice", I will receive the M1A1 furniture (Wood Grips & Stock) tomorrow Jan 16th. Not bad, 8 days;, if it comes on time UPS, they are pretty good for delivery times. I will start out with a show and tell with my opinion about the product, general quality, color, fit and any other comments I have.
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I received the wood furniture for the M1A1 Thompson this week as promised, some modification (fitting) is required, no surprise there so for now. The wood is very good and to my surprise it the correct stain (dark Walnut). I have not decided yet to restain and make it darker or not, I will have to wait and see after the modifications are complete. So far so good.
I do not know if it is a hardwood but is seems so. I do have some other projects to complete but it should not be too long, maybe a week or so.
At that time I will be working on the modifications on the M1A1 project and I will post videos of the work.
On another note the kit did not come with the metal sling hardware for the Kerr sling; I contacted the company and they supplied me with a parts diagram so I could order the parts, (very nice of them). The Umarex hardware is not a correct fit.
I will NOT be modifying any metal parts on the gun, that would not be smart as I want to keep it stock to be able to restore the plastic furniture at any time in the future. After all the gun cost $240.00 dollars (plus tax and shipping). I will only modify the wood parts to fit. I will, when I get the time, send pictures/videos of the wood grips and stocks.
So far only two people are interested in this project, perhaps that will change when the videos start to come out so for now happy shooting!
I do not know if it is a hardwood but is seems so. I do have some other projects to complete but it should not be too long, maybe a week or so.
At that time I will be working on the modifications on the M1A1 project and I will post videos of the work.
On another note the kit did not come with the metal sling hardware for the Kerr sling; I contacted the company and they supplied me with a parts diagram so I could order the parts, (very nice of them). The Umarex hardware is not a correct fit.
I will NOT be modifying any metal parts on the gun, that would not be smart as I want to keep it stock to be able to restore the plastic furniture at any time in the future. After all the gun cost $240.00 dollars (plus tax and shipping). I will only modify the wood parts to fit. I will, when I get the time, send pictures/videos of the wood grips and stocks.
So far only two people are interested in this project, perhaps that will change when the videos start to come out so for now happy shooting!
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Almost done with M1A1 Wood stocks etc. Only thing left is the staining and poly coating. First coat done waiting for stain to dry (it takes 2 full days to dry) then the polyurethane so it looks like next week. It has been an interesting project.
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I’ve thought about getting one of those M1A1’s but held off because it lacked real wood furniture. So I’m watching your project with great interest!
I have a KWC M712 that came with plastic grips and stock. Fortunately Sarco makes a nice wood stock that fits.
Overall, wood furniture is the icing on the cake.
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