Umarex Gauntlet: Teardown and Tweak Video

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"noobiePCP101"Drilled the hole although I'm sure it made any difference until I increase the whole size for the air stripper. In you video you mention polishing the hammer and the tube. What exactly does that do? Power? Accuracy?
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Polishing raw machine cut or turned steel removes all the line, ridges and burs that equate to friction. The smoother the tube and hammer are the cleaner the slide and ease of cocking which all equate to more efficient delivery of energy. 
 
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Just trying to help, someone please correct me if I am wrong.
Eddy,
Yes. But, have you looked at Hajimoto's video? Somewhere around the 10.30 minute marked I believe he takes the shroud off.

Ben,
I only know Ninja tanks and while when doing it ( do not ask ) it seems they fit. They DO NOT ! The fill and pressure gauge are VERY close threads, may even seal with dope BUT they are NOT the same and it is totally unsafe to do so. I can not recall the burst disc size but again different.

Now on some other tank? But do watch for similar but no go threads.

My QB78 HPA was at one time set up with a reg which had the fill & gauge forming a V . I had to remove the barrel but it mounted fine, would be tight fill it though, maybe. A Dremel or round file might "fix" the hand guard w/out looking bad?

John

 
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I learned more from this one video than I've learned over the past year hanging out with folks who are into serious airgunning. "Tool marks" and "barrel lapping", "champferring" (sp?) and "bird-mouthing" the transfer port... I've read or heard of these terms but had no context in which to place them. Your clear, uncluttered approach in discussing not only the tear-down but also your reasoning and implementation of modifications is nothing short of brilliant, Haji. I look at what's there when I take a gun apart and am doing pretty good just to understand the general layout and function. YOU don't just 'look' at what's there, you really SEE what is going on and then take the next step to consider how to improve each function, if possible, and as important where not to attempt improvements.

As someone who has spent decades in IT and suffered through many a failed brain dump from Subject Matter Experts who had no skill whatsoever in transmitting knowledge to others, I have learned how rare and precious an effective mentor/presenter of detailed information can be. You, sir, have a gift that shines through in this video like a vein of gold in a block of quartz. Keep it up and God bless you and yours.
 
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"ironlion269"I learned more from this one video than I've learned over the past year hanging out with folks who are into serious airgunning. "Tool marks" and "barrel lapping", "champferring" (sp?) and "bird-mouthing" the transfer port... I've read or heard of these terms but had no context in which to place them. Your clear, uncluttered approach in discussing not only the tear-down but also your reasoning and implementation of modifications is nothing short of brilliant, Haji. I look at what's there when I take a gun apart and am doing pretty good just to understand the general layout and function. YOU don't just 'look' at what's there, you really SEE what is going on and then take the next step to consider how to improve each function, if possible, and as important where not to attempt improvements.

As someone who has spent decades in IT and suffered through many a failed brain dump from Subject Matter Experts who had no skill whatsoever in transmitting knowledge to others, I have learned how rare and precious an effective mentor/presenter of detailed information can be. You, sir, have a gift that shines through in this video like a vein of gold in a block of quartz. Keep it up and God bless you and yours.
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This does not happen often but I am speechless. While I do appreciate your kind words, they are humbling and are sheepishly accepted. I am glad that you and anyone can gain some knowledge from my content. I do not claim to be the authority on any given subject but I will share the execution of any technique on my very own items. I voided my warranty on the rifle but I KNEW I would make improvements not make it worse. I bought the rifle myself and have no plans on returning it, it is my Gauntlet and if it is ever sold the Moto-fications will be divulged for sure. I will be doing a follow up video to my teardown which captures performance changes, baffles, air stripper issues, hammer spring preload, Ninja regulator adjustments and Moto-fications to over coming shroud fitting issues. Thank you again and if there is something that you would like me to expand on, please let me know and I will gladly do so.
 
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I emailed TKO sales and gave them the caliber and make of the gun , barrel diameter in inches and mm and that I wanted a tapered silencer with set screws. Mike at TKO gave me two purchase options and instructions on how to order. I placed my order and paid with Paypal. Then I emailed TKO again with the Paypal order receipt number and ask them to check if my info was correct on my order and email to verify all was good. TKO said all was good via email. 
 
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Thanks for all the help guys. I think I am wrapping up modding on my Gauntlet. I'm pretty happy with mine at the moment. I'm not sure about fpe since I don't have a chronograph but I'm pretty happy with the accuracy and shot count. I get around ~55 good shots that can consistently pop candy pills at 50 yard with crossman premier hp. Good enough for backyard plinking. I'll probably start saving for a .25 cal side lever bull-pulp for hunting. One of the biggest weakness of the Gauntlet is the shear size and weight. In the future if I go cheap I'll get a Air Max P15 or go more expensive maybe a FX Wildcat.
 
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I have been following your work and really appreciate it. I had a good laugh, you were right, my air stripper was broke also. Everyone seems to be a little hard on themselves in regard to barrel removal and o-ring damage. We, as end users/owners, are a hell of a lot more careful than the people putting these guns together and I would bet that most of the o-rings were actually damaged at assembly. I took my barrel off in a normal fashion (not crazy parnoid careful) and my o-rings were fine. I got lucky with that one. In looking for a replacement air stripper (no 3d printer here) I measured my barrel diameter; made sure my caliper was zeroed, measured again and again and still my Gauntlet barrel is 11.13mm, .438" or 7/16". That is technically a pretty big difference from the 11.36mm that you got, and yes I measured at different spots. My gun's serial number is only 44 higher so I imagine they were made concurrently. Just something else to consider and wonder about. I am use to guns being far more precise. The front handguard tank shroud fit is an abomination also, really Umarex? That was the best you could come up with? I have seen numerous fixes online and they are all lacking and shouldn't even be necessary. I actually like the gun's potential quite a bit I just wish that I didn't have to fix what shouldn't have been broke (or off) in the first place. My gun is also a 19.5fpe gun, which I am fixing and I like doing 'that' stuff although if they had delivered on their early promises of 26 to 27 foot pounds, I wouldn't need too. A true tinker's dream. I have to laugh about the talk of the .25 caliber using 1800psi and getting 46fpe; we'll see. If past performance is truly indicative of future results.... I am really looking forward to your final tank shroud fix, keep up the good work, great video!
 
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"PumaCarl"I have been following your work and really appreciate it. I had a good laugh, you were right, my air stripper was broke also. Everyone seems to be a little hard on themselves in regard to barrel removal and o-ring damage. We, as end users/owners, are a hell of a lot more careful than the people putting these guns together and I would bet that most of the o-rings were actually damaged at assembly. I took my barrel off in a normal fashion (not crazy parnoid careful) and my o-rings were fine. I got lucky with that one. In looking for a replacement air stripper (no 3d printer here) I measured my barrel diameter; made sure my caliper was zeroed, measured again and again and still my Gauntlet barrel is 11.13mm, .438" or 7/16". That is technically a pretty big difference from the 11.36mm that you got, and yes I measured at different spots. My gun's serial number is only 44 higher so I imagine they were made concurrently. Just something else to consider and wonder about. I am use to guns being far more precise. The front handguard tank shroud fit is an abomination also, really Umarex? That was the best you could come up with? I have seen numerous fixes online and they are all lacking and shouldn't even be necessary. I actually like the gun's potential quite a bit I just wish that I didn't have to fix what shouldn't have been broke (or off) in the first place. My gun is also a 19.5fpe gun, which I am fixing and I like doing 'that' stuff although if they had delivered on their early promises of 26 to 27 foot pounds, I wouldn't need too. A true tinker's dream. I have to laugh about the talk of the .25 caliber using 1800psi and getting 46fpe; we'll see. If past performance is truly indicative of future results.... I am really looking forward to your final tank shroud fix, keep up the good work, great video!
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Yeah while Umarex is mailing out replacement air strippers, I am not certain these have been reworked so that they are not fitting on the barrel so tight. When I received my replacement part it was very tight so I used a Dremel tool and sanded the ID larger so there was not excessive pressure on the plastic which is what made the original fail. 
As for 3D printed parts, they work great for prototyping a concept but they typically do not do well for a production part required to maintain structural rigidity.

I gave up on my 3D printed air stripper because of the close tolerances required for the O-ring channel and OD for tight fit in the shroud where difficult to achieve with PLA or ABS. I think anyone with access to a lathe can make a very nice replacement from aluminum.

I too have been typing with a bottle to barrel shroud band support but I will not be able to go any further with the Gauntlet as far as accuracy testing because of the -20°F weather the Northeast has been experiencing as of late. I need to vet all the modification I have don't so far at 50+ ranges before introducing another accuracy variable with a barrel band. I WILL be doing it though, just after I confirm the improvements performed so far at something other than 20 yards.

I think the HAMMER will be nice to see but how they are going to achieve what I have seen proposed for the .25 Gauntlet leads me to believe that the .25 will be a completely different build as the .177 and .22 actions do appear to be capable of supporting 1800psi or 46fpe IMHO
Thank you for the kind words and I will produce a video for the tank shroud support, I promise :)
 
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"PumaCarl"Wow! You really caught me off-guard with your 3d printed air-stripper comments. That thing looked really rugged! I told PA that I don't even want to bother with the Umarex part again. I was looking into getting a 3d printer but if the plastic it uses to print isn't that strong I guess I will pass on that for now. Thanks for the heads up.

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Please allow me to expand. The dimensional tolerances are part of the issue. You are essentially flowing melted plastic and building your finished part. During that process the material does not have the ability, even at its highest resolution, to hold within .0010. This tolerance is critical when you are trying to capture a 2mm thick O-ring in a 1mm deep 2mm wide channel. In 3D printing, because the part is essentially created layer upon layer you inherently have structural weakness design into the part which will typically fail on one of these fault lines.

So when you want to produce a structurally superior part, you must print the part on a 45° angle so you are incorporating strength into the part while it is being built. This 45° angle means the part must be supported during the printing process so the melted plastic does not sag to the lower level. This support material is produced in columns and pillars such as shown in the photo below, which is an RC car wheel or rim



As you can see because the part is produced on an angle there is a fair amount of support material that must be removed. The removal of this support material is not only on the outside of your part but also on the inside of any hollow tube that will need to be cleaned up as well. This cleanup time can be ridiculously tedious work but if enough time and patience are applied, you can produce a usable part, but, it is a substantially inefficient production method. A lathe that turns aluminum bar stock could make a far more superior part in 1/3 the time.

Please do not let this instance of part creation sway you away from purchasing a 3D printer as it has so many beneficial uses for prototype or proof of concept applications.

Thank you
Hajimoto
 
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Hello Haji,
I have been enjoying all of your videos on YouTube, they are some of my favorites. I just discovered your series on the Gauntlet and I want to say that these are some of the best teardown and explanation videos on air guns that I have seen so far. I have some experience mechanically on other models and learn some new things from your videos that I want to apply to some of my other guns. I would have no hesitation of going to work on any of the models that you have a video for.
 
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