Tx200 ???

I am a TX guy. I have tried it without pegging but it has not worked. The scope has moved when I don't do it. Sometimes it takes a bit, but it moves. The thing to watch is the the hole for the peg bottoms out on the trigger block. If you screw the pin down tight you can't really remove the trigger block without removing the scope later. Which means if you desire to change the piston seal or spring you pull it. Same for the tune kit.
 
I used BKL rings on my 200, they don't have stops, but haven't moved since installing almost three years ago. When installing scopes, bases or rings a torque wrench is your friend.
Ditto on BKL's. I've used them on Patriots, Kodiaks, Magnum RWS guns, etc, etc. They will not move and they are the only rings I'll use on springers now.
 
Do you guys always use the hole on the scope grooves to pin your scope rings? I was just curious because I'm really not sure if I even need to on a lockdown mount .
In general, probably not.
Two exceptions
1. Magnum springers (as pointed out above)
2. competition shooting. If you don't want anything to move during competition. Make sure anything that can move is buttoned down.

For these two exceptions, I would explore every possibilities to ensure scope stability. (tuning, optically center the scope, stop pin, if unable to use stop pin ...BKL mounts, locktite, anti-recoil mounts, etc)

I hesitate to suggest adjustable mounts...because it introduces more screws that you need to monitor.

Disadvantage of the stop pin. If not installed properly and monitored, it may gouge/hog a chunk out of the retaining hole.
 
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Clean mounting surfaces with denatured alcohol to eliminate any grease/oils and lock down those BKL's... dont need to torque to the max, but they'll hold. Especially on a mild recoiling gun like a TX. I've had BKL's hold on the most notorious of recoiling springers with zero issues. My experience with pins is that if you use mounts with pins, if they do move, they tend to deform the holes on the gun. All that mitigated with using BKL's.
 
Once I tune my rifles, I have never needed a stop pin with my one piece SportsMatch mounts. My current TX shoots 910 with 8.4 and my R1 lightening in .22 cal avgs 825 fps with 14.3 pellets. Never had a mount/ scope move in the past 30 plus years and never use a stop pin. Now if you have one of the beasts like a 350 or such, I probably would, but those are no fun to shoot anyway and would never own one. If your rifle is below 20 ft lbs, it should be tuned so it doesn't allow a good mount to move, if it does, the rifle is not tuned well.
 
You must realize the stupid factory engineer's are no match for the geniuses in the basement.
As an auto mechanic I can attest to the fact that sometimes engineers are too smart for their own good. Bubba in his basement can usually come up with a much simpler solution because he didn't over think it
 
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You must realize the stupid factory engineer's are no match for the geniuses in the basement.
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As an auto mechanic I can attest to the fact that sometimes engineers are too smart for their own good. Bubba in his basement can usually come up with a much simpler solution because he didn't over think it
Bubba only sees the icing and not the cake. When you remove the icing the cake dries out pretty quickly. Yes, at times you are correct but the designers must look at the big picture and the original assembly. I have seen so much damage and small problems turned into big repair bills I am very leary of Bubba. Yes I have been known to shake my head at engineer's. Biggest example the early GM/ Olds 350 diesels. Everyone hates the engineer's but I hate the been counters. 50 years of wrenches, you have my respect.
 
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Bubba only sees the icing and not the cake. When you remove the icing the cake dries out pretty quickly. Yes, at times you are correct but the designers must look at the big picture and the original assembly. I have seen so much damage and small problems turned into big repair bills I am very leary of Bubba. Yes I have been known to shake my head at engineer's. Biggest example the early GM/ Olds 350 diesels. Everyone hates the engineer's but I hate the been counters. 50 years of wrenches, you have my respect.
You're taking the Bubba thing a bit too literally. Not being an engineer doesn't mean you're stupid. My point was that engineers have a habit of over engineering things. That being said, a stop pin still isn't always necessary. It's there as a fail safe for people who don't know how to mount optics properly. I have a lot of springers and only use the stop pin on a few. Some manufacturers don't even put them as an option.
 
I am not sure there is a "right" answer. There is an answer that works for each of us. The OP seemed to ask about what each of us did, not for the "right" or universal answer. I run +/- 500 pellets a week with over 15K in the last year through mine. It is not handled with kid gloves. I get the impression what I am doing is not what others are doing per se. So I would not expect what works for me to work for anyone else.
 
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