TX200 Accurizer

I have been working to improve my TX200HC in order to make it less sensitive to screw-ups. With perfect shot execution it has been very accurate, but any mistakes were punished without mercy. The first step was to install a 15 ft-lb Vortek kit. It did make the gun more pleasant to shoot, but I can't claim any big improvement in accuracy. Next I switched to a 12 ft-lb kit and saw that fliers due to my errors were about half as far off target as before, but still more than I had hoped for. So I finally did something I had been wanting to do for a while, make a muzzle weight. The idea was that weight hanging at the end of the barrel would reduce muzzle flip and make the gun easier to shoot accurately. This made a big difference, probably more than the drop from 15 to 12 ft-lbs. It is still possible to mess up, but deviations due to errors are much smaller than without the weight.

This shows the weight alongside the standard TX muzzle cap. I duplicated the internal geometry including the air stripper. Thread is 1/2-20. Length beyond the shroud is 4 1/4", and weight is about 1/2 pound. It is made from a section of 3/4" 12L14 steel which left it a little smaller than the shroud. That doesn't bother me, but if I do it again I might try to find some 20 mm bar stock.



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And this is how it looks installed on the rifle. I need to find some way to color it black. Leaded steel does not blue well, it ends up more gray-black than blue-black. Any suggestions would be welcomed.



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And here are the results. It was rainy yesterday afternoon so I couldn't try it out outside, but I did shoot a group at 10 meters to make sure there was no clipping. With five shots in one hole I was pretty sure the muzzle weight was going to work out. I did get out between showers today, and after sighting in, managed to shoot three small groups in succession. There was a wind developing as the next shower blew in and it began to cause groups to drift right, but they stayed small, basically 1/2" or less. The rifle has become much easier to shoot. Before I was struggling to keep all shots within the 1" circle, now I would be disappointed if a shot didn't at least clip the 1/2" aim point.



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The only downside is the added length and the muzzle heavy feel that is not my preference for offhand. Since POI didn't seem to change much, possibly a small shift right, I plan to use the muzzle weight for target shooting, and remove it if I ever use the gun for hunting where it will be carried for any length of time.
 
Here is a very preliminary chairgun with the Vortek PG3 HO kit. Alittle harder to cock but the shot cycle is not much differant than the lower powered kit. I'm still using the OEM piston seal. I had another TX a few years ago and replaced the piston seal, it was a bitch to get the new seal on. So I'm not looking forward to that again. Have you changed the piston seal? I wonder if its easier on newer guns.

If if its not to windy here on Sunday I'll see how it groups.





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I did replace my seal with the Vortek moly, but that was a while ago. The only trick I know of is to soak the seal for about a minute in very hot water before trying to put it on or take it off. This will both soften and expand the plastic seal.

I have a theory that the pellet that acquires the most energy is the one that will be the sweetest shooting, and often the one with the lowest variation in velocity. With the PG2-HO my gun had a clear preference for the JSB 8.44. With the PG3 installed, the JSB 7.87 has half the spread of the 8.44/4.53, and also gets me over 800 fps. I might try the JSB 8.44/4.52 some day, but for now am sticking with the JSB 7.87 at the lower power level.
 
My HC is short stroked as Thumper suggested and also has a sleeved 22mm skirt-less piston. Very quick linear shot cycle.

The weight on the end of my barrel fits over the shroud, flush with the end. I wanted to avoid the front heavy issue. I used an old AR barrel mount, reamed to the size of the shroud and grooved on the bottom side to slide by the barrel lock up block. It is not pretty, but it works. I can add weight to it as well via the three threaded holes on top that use to have a weaver mount attached.

Tim

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Not at all surprised at the improvement of accuracy by adding weight. Many years back my youngest son had an HW77 tuned right at 12 fpe. We came across a Tom Anderson custom stock for it. The stock was quite big and heavy, but my son wanted to try it. With the new stock and his Burris 8-32 x40 scope his FT rig now weighed 17 lbs!!! Everyone saidvitvwas way to heavy and akward and he would not do well in competition. Yes he had to make some changes to his shooting style, especially his offhand stance. We worked on how he could use little muscle and give a solid support to his new rig. Needless to say the weight made it an absolute tack driver, once in position....it never moved. He went on that summer to win numerous matches, including the great lakes double tournament and he won the first Canadian National FT match match with that heavy springer. Weight can improve accuracy do to the law of physics....mass in motion. With the short barrel of your HC, any small movement will cause accuracy loss and being a lighter weight rifle it becomes much easier to move on firing. Work on your follow thru after the trigger breaks. As far as coloring your weight, try black epoxy spray paint, I have used it on many ocassions with good sucess. Not a perfect match but quite close, better than a poor blue job anyway.
 
It was the very first canadian national tournement, as they called it, held at the Waterloo facility. My son Kurt won the overall match with his 77 and yes it was well before 2000. They had a perpetual trophy and his name was at the top. Went back a number of tiimes for other matches and was always honored to see his name first on that trophy and with a springer to boot !!