Tuning TX 200 MkIII tuning question

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TiredRooster

TiredRooster

Member
Nov 1, 2018
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Alabama, United States
Alright fellas. I have a question for you TX200 owners. I just bought a new TX200 MkIII. I have always wanted one and finally pulled the trigger on a new one a few days ago. It is every bit as beautiful as I had hoped. I have done nothing with it yet. It's been taken outa the box and admired so far...that is it. I am going to do a thorough cleaning and a bit of polishing over the next week or so depending on work schedule.

My question is what types of drop in spring kits do some of you use or have used on your TX, and you'r likes and dislikes about them. It is a .22 caliber and I don't want a <12 Ft Lb rifle. I have experience with the HW97k with a Vortek kit in one and a Maccari kit in the other. Vortek is great in my HW97. TX200.......??????

Your opinions are very much appreciated!
 
 I don't know how helpful this will be but here it goes. My .22 TX200 didn't like either Vortek kit that I put in it. Not the factory kit, not The Vortek HO kit and definitely not the 12ftlb kit. I tried shimming, cutting coils, and every pellet I could get my hands on. It never even came close to my .22 97K (that has a PG3 HO installed). To this day I don't know if I should have tried a Maccari kit or if my barrel was the issue. I swapped it over to a .177 barrel and dropped the 12ftlb kit in (cut down to 11.7fpe with JSB 8.44s) and it shot the lights out.

Long story short, I would start with a Macarri power tune kit and go from there. I have seven guns with Vortek kits in them and installed them in a few friends guns. They all work flawlessly. This one wasn't so lucky. If it works well (like 3/4" at 50yds consistently) let me know please. I still have that 22 barrel and tube assembly and have been looking for an excuse to build a new gun around it.
 
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Shoot it first. I can’t tell you how many times someone has ruined a perfectly good rifle by tearing it apart and modifying it before shooting it. You might just like what you already have. I did. My tx is bone stock, and will stay that way. How will you know if you truly need a kit without getting a baseline first anyway? How will you know if it actually improved the rifle?

SHOOT IT!!!
 
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Yes, shoot it first, then take it apart. I is so easy there is no reason not to. You will then see how much improvement you have made. You can buy any kit you want, but why? My MK3. Has all stock parts, just cleaned, polished spring ends, couple shims and very good lubes!! Mine is a .177 and shoots 900 fps with a 3-4 spread, can shoot 1/2" groups at 50 and sub one inch at 75 yds with no wind. Shot cycle is very smooth, would put it up against anyone's tune. I do use spring dampening compound which many dont like, but have been using it for over 35 years with not one problem!! Feel free to spend your hard earned money on buying more stuff but not necessary.
 
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Over the years I have accumulated at lot of top-hats and guides for my TX guns. I find stock internals are great if the top-hat fits snug and the guide is a friction fit. You have to push the guide into the spring with a little force, it does not fall in. As the spring compresses, that fit is loosed some, so I find the proper guide is essential. I lube sparingly with Krytox, but many have lubes that work for them, including tar and that is fine. You should have no vibration, just a nice solid thud. My MK1 TX has all stock parts that fit properly and it is a pleasure to shoot.

Tim
 
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I appreciate all the input fellas. I will definitely take some of the recommendations into account. My plan is actually to take the TX down and do a thorough cleaning, and polishing here and there, as well as a proper lube job and then just shoot the heck out of it and see how she does that way. However, I know that often times even a really good springer will benefit from good after market spring kit. Maybe the TX will prove to be different. It'll be fun finding out!


 
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Clean the barrel.

Don’t polish anything.

Check the screws 

Shoot it 1000 times then you will know what you think you need to do.

What you will want is a DELRIN spring follower…that is about it..
Click to expand...

The only problem I have is shooting it that many times without checking things out. Over my many years of tunning I have found many small problems in new guns that can become big problems if you continue to shoot it. The TX is so easy to take apart, there is no reason not to take a look inside and clean and polish a few obvious things and add quality lubes. Before getting serious about pellet choice, check your rifle over a chrono and be sure it is consistant. Once smoothed out and consistant, then do serious pellet testing. Enjoy your TX.......
 
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I'm expecting a new TX200 just like the OP. Can someone give me the rundown on what 'use good lubes' would entail? At a minimum I would like to give my new gun a good cleaning and at that point, I would need to understand the best practices for re-lubing. What lubes? Where? How much? Thanks! -Steve
Click to expand...



Some of the best springer lubes can be found and purchased at ARH (Air Rifle Head Quarters). Quite honestly, the less lube the better. Pretty much all I use on my springers is super moly paste from ARH. I use it fairly sparingly on the spring, guide and a slight/light amount around the outside diameter of piston seal. Sparingly on any moving/rotating metal part. I will put a small amount on a couple of trigger parts as well. 

You will get an unbelievable number of varying opinions on this. But over a period of years (and trying different methods) I have found this to be the best way to lube my springers. Too much lube will have an adverse effect on performance. Many will use a heavy tar on the spring to dampen noise and vibration. But this will also negatively effect performance.
 
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I have used Dow moly paste for as long as I have worked on springers. It is designed to be rubbed into the surfaces then any excess can be removed. It has a silicone base so it can be used on plastic and rubber seals. Has a military spec for metals in corrosion prevention and lubrication. All moving surfaces get a rub down with this stuff. If you get it rubbed into your fingers you wont be able to pick up anything and is very difficult to remove so I use disposable gloves. It wont hurt you but can be hard to get it off. I do use a small amount of spring dampening compound, which many dont approve of, not sure why, but have been using this stuff for 35 years and O issues. There have been some that appeared to be quite generous with this stuff and caused them issues, but Me and all my customers have never had issues, when applied properly. I use Venemol moly grease on hinge joints and other surfaces where a grease type lube is required. Check for sharp edges where they could break off and become chips floating around inside the action and cause further unseen damage. Check for burrs on the barrel crown and the lead taper into the breech!! On ocassion the chamfering tool has become dull and leaves a burr on these two areas. These burrs can damage the pellet before it is ever fired. Folks that feel they have a bad barrel, often find a burr on the crown or breech lead in, and once smoothed out, creates a fine shooting rifle. My TX200 MK3 had a slight burr on both ends of the barrel, it shot fairly well but many flyers. Once I removed the slight burrs it became a tack driver! Have shot many sub one inch groups on my 75 yd target when the wind is calm. Good luck with yours!!
 
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Clean the barrel.

Don’t polish anything.

Check the screws 

Shoot it 1000 times then you will know what you think you need to do.

What you will want is a DELRIN spring follower…that is about it..
Click to expand...

I made a short video about how smooth the TX200 is with the factory 12fpe rebuild kit.

I had to hold the phone in one hand while doing it, sorry:





https://youtu.be/OAWUppCDXyc


 
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